Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Not Firing After Rebuild

RB26TTVL

By RB26TTVL,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

RB26TTVL Community Regular

RB26TTVL

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, in short, I've had my engine rebuilt, and after reinstalling, can't get it to fire, not even a cough. There's fuel, deffo got compression, but no spark.

Specifics: it's an r33 rb26, in a vl. Wiring was professionally done, and before the rebuild it was all good. Stock computer, no big injectors or anything.

Rebuild was done by a mate, who's done a few race engines, but his first rb26. I have no doubt he's done right. Basic mild rebuild, pistons, rods etc. turbos have been hi flowed, steel wheeled etc. (mate is 500km away, so not keen to trailer there to look over it)

Took it to a local mechanic (country vic) who put it down to an intermittent fault and wouldn't go any further.

Everything I've done on a budget, and after returning from os, haven't got cash to splash around, missus is preggers, so just taking it to an auto elec with an open cheque book is the last thing I'll do.

Any suggestions on where to start, cas, afm? Is there something incredibly stupid that I'm missing?

Any suggestions gratefully accepted!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385922-rb26-not-firing-after-rebuild/
Share on other sites
Adriano Grand Master

Adriano

Posted
Posted

Local guy is an idiot, how is it intermittant if it wont start. If there is injector pulse, then it wont be cas, does the fuel pump come on with ignition for a few seconds, and then again when cranking? Power at the coils, Ecu and igniter/coils earthed? Are you sure there is no spark? You can measure Afm voltage with ignition on at the ecu to confirm wiring and afm's. How do the plugs look? Maybe Double check the cam timing, and while you are at it does it still have the locating pin in teh front of the exhaust cam to align the cas?

RB26TTVL Community Regular

RB26TTVL

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the replies lads, gives me somewhere to start, would be amazing if it's just those two plugs in the wrong spot. I'll get in and have a crack after work and see where it leads!

Rolls, the wiring was done by a company who do heaps of conversions, this was the first one of this kind, so fingers crossed it hasn't gone tits up there. As said, was previously running as is, so hopefully not!

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Back of the inlet manifold there is 2 plugs that can be swapped by accident. Check and swap these. Has happened to me tooThey connect to the coilpack / ignitor loom

Thanks for the replies lads, gives me somewhere to start, would be amazing if it's just those two plugs in the wrong spot.

hahaha Nissan are normally so good about this....but there are indeed 2 plugs that fit together the wrong way around and will stop spark on the 32 gtr loom. you'll always remember after the first time you do it :P

RB26TTVL Community Regular

RB26TTVL

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update:

There's power at all the coil packs (just over 10 volt each). There's power at the relays at the ecu when ignition is off (12v) but its still there when the ignition is on, so obv relays aren't actuating, and we have a problem.

Unsure if related, but fuel pump is not coming on with ignition either.

Assume there is a failure in power supply somewhere?

Also, unrelated I think, found that the earth cable to the battery was busted, now fixed.

Ecu and coils/ ign are earthed.

Pulled cas off, locating pin is there, connected the plug and spun with my fingers and got nothing from the injectors. Tried with a second cas for same result. Assume this is also a problem from relays not locking in.

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

If theres power at the coilpacks, use an led test light to see if they are pulsing when cranking,

If no

Use led test light to see if there is a pulse before the ignitor.

This test will tell u if the ecu is outputting a signal to the ignitor and if the ignitor is recieving and outputting a signal to the coils.

If pulse before ignitor but none out need new ignitor.

No pulse before ignitor ecu, cas or wiring issue

Is the tacho moving when u crank?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Bonnet clearance?
    • joshuaho96
      Magnetic Drain Plug Snapped in Half

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
    • GTSBoy
      Finding E-30 & E-85 in Sydney

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This seems like a pointless exercise. There is no E30 availability. Ongoing availability of E85 should not be assumed. Flex-fuel is the only sensible approach, so you can use E85 when and where you can get it, 98 when that's al you can get, and anything in between as you fill it up and drain it down. And if that means replacing the pumps, fitting a flex capable sensor/ECU/whatever has to be done to these Renault shitboxen, then.....so be it?
×
×
  • Create New...