Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You can; I do, but they don't work as well as the dedicated forced orbit styles, because if you apply a decent amount of pressure, the pad doesn't orbit very well.

It's miles easier than hand polishing, and delivers surprising results if you're prepared to take a bit of time.

I'm sure one of the resident experts will have a better explanation; but that's it in a nutshell.

Most Orbital Sanders have an orbit in the range of 3-5mm where didicated polishes are around the 8mm mark. Not saying you cant use them, you can! but as above may take a bit longer. If you do use a sander dont use one that has been used on wood as they hold crap inside them and only takes some grit to fall out onto your work and you have induced scratches and swirls :(

Edited by R31Heaven

Its an Random orbital, not an Orbital polisher There RPM rating is higher.

I know its not a polisher. I just thought that it had to high an RPM to polish. Im no expert but I thought polishers had to have a lower RPM so they didnt burn the paint. But looking at the Concours 900 polisher that Waxit Sell and they run 2500-6500rpm. So I guess its not as far out as I thought

There are three types of polishers Random Orbital, Orbital and forced rotation. Random orbitals spin in a spiragraph type pattern so dont actualy spin, so they dont build up heat like a rotary which spin in a a circular motion, this why it is recommended to use an Random Orbital when your a beginer. Foced rotation do both. The Festool above also has a speed dial on top to slow down and speed up.

There are three types of polishers Random Orbital, Orbital and forced rotation. Random orbitals spin in a spiragraph type pattern so dont actualy spin, so they dont build up heat like a rotary which spin in a a circular motion, this why it is recommended to use an Random Orbital when your a beginer. Foced rotation do both. The Festool above also has a speed dial on top to slow down and speed up.

Thanks for the info,always have a doubt about the difference between each other,remembered that at work we used to have a Festo Rotex and when you switch from normal sander to the other mode if you pressed to hard it stopped spinning but it kept moving...wonder what happened with it...

post-52922-0-86146000-1324285259_thumb.jpg

Edited by southern_tango

hi

Both the Festool Random Orbital and Rotex can do wonders to your paint finish.

You can use either one, however make sure you get the right combination of pads and compound or finishing polish to complete the job.

rotex is mighty expensive though

Their slightly lighter than the boschgex150T which i use, but a whole ton more expensive!

as long as your machine wasn't previously used for wood though as previously mentioned :)

you might burn thru the paint either way you need to clean that thing spotless before use. I wouldnt use it myself too risky. a paint job cost too much to stuff around with a cheap sander to save coin.

the short handle will be harder to hold on a car without damage to it

you might burn thru the paint either way you need to clean that thing spotless before use. I wouldnt use it myself too risky. a paint job cost too much to stuff around with a cheap sander to save coin.

the short handle will be harder to hold on a car without damage to it

a random orbital is quite safe at low speeds. rotaries scare the crap out of me, ive never tried one and most likely never really will, my random orbital on forced rotation is more than enough for me :)

but as antonio said - GOOD PADS :)!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...