Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Selling an upgrade turbo charger for any RB25. Basically we've taken a R34GTT stock nissan housings (which are larger than R33 GTST) and put a Garrett TA34 core in it. The Garrett centre is a dual ball bearing core turbo with steel wheels. The housings have been machined to suit the wheels. The turbo has been tested on a car and is working 100%. This turbo has done about 50km on an RB20, but was just a little bit lazy to come on boost at about 4,000rpm and wasn't what we wanted on this car. But an RB25 would be perfectly suited to this turbo.

The work was performed by Rotomaster, Somerton VIC. I will post the turbo interstate - please ask for a shipping quote.

PRO's

The turbo will bolt to your stock manifold.

Retains Nissan 5 bolt dump pipe.

Your standard wastegate actuator will fit.

Turbo still looks stock

Turbo has warranty, ending in Aug 2012.

CON's

You have to make custom oil and water lines.

Pickup from Bayswater, VIC

Price is $1760.00 - which is trade price. This is what we paid for it.

post-6928-0-34337300-1324262604_thumb.jpg

post-6928-0-62094300-1324262743_thumb.jpg

post-6928-0-98178600-1324262778_thumb.jpg

how many KW did it make on the rb20?

It was never fully tuned on the RB20, as the injectors were also maxing out. We could only set the boost at 12PSI max before injectors were an issue, so it was made safe then road tested and wasn't what we were after.

im after a turbo for my NEO 25, I spose this would be quite lagy as not a good match?

Though how much of a hassle cost wise are cuton oil and water lines?

Actually I would expect it to be a pretty good match for a Neo RB25 as it's roughly 20% bigger wheels than OEM using the OEM housings. Also it all bolts directly back on. Plus the added benefit of steel wheels = no more 12PSI limit, not to mention ball bearing vs plain bearing.

I think I did lines for around $270 using speedflow fittings, teflon braided -4 oil line and pushlock water hose. That's 4x lines and 2x fittings into the block.

So would this be expected to push similar figures to what a standard r34 hi flow would? 250-270rwkw

Yep - that would be the figure I would expect too. 280rwkw seems to be all most of the return flow intercoolers will push anyway, so there is no point getting a bigger turbo than this, as you will still end up with 270ish.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The 1000ccs are side feeds but they're not currently installed, had my old factory ones in for leak testing purposes, only decided on them because front facing plenums and good top feed rail kits are out of my budget at the moment, are they really that problematic? Had a set of yellow jackets that lasted me 5 years, no real issues, only replaced them chasing this misfire issue that ended up not being ignition related 😄  
    • Are those 1000cc side feeds? If so, that's part of your problem. I have 1480cc and they idle at stoich on 98RON, and all the way to E85. Also your coil packs.....
    • Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
×
×
  • Create New...