What's the torque settings supposed to be for the big inlet VCT Cam Bolt?

[GiJOr33]

Just putting a cylinder head back together and i'm not sure what torque setting the big center bolt is supposed to tightened up to.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Andrew

[maximajim]

123-132 N-m

[GiJOr33]

mad... thanks for the info! Everything is ready to go except for that!!!

where did you get the info from?

[maximajim]

The JPNZ R33 manual of course

Page EN-122

[GiJOr33]

printed or digital? if digital, i would luuuurrrrvvveee a copy

if printed, where did you get it and how much?

i have the r32 gtr one.

[maximajim]

Sorry it's paper. Got it from http://www.jpnz.co.nz/xcart/customer/home.php

It now shows 250NZD but I think I may have gotten it for less.

[GiJOr33]

Yeah i did a search on the forum and found that site. I thought you'd say it was printed

Oh well... i probably should have bought one before i started this!

[maximajim]

Let me know which torque settings you need I can post them on the web for you.

[GiJOr33]

mad... thanks heaps when i need them i'll write them all down and list them to save you from looking up the book heaps of times... i found the ones for the cam journals and just did them up to the same as the R32 GTR ones, i think they were 6.8-8.7 something (Nm or ftlb, unsure)

thanks again!

[GiJOr33]

actually, just 5 quick ones, these are what i'll be doing first thing in the morning

Head Bolts,

Inlet Manifold to head

Inlet Plenum to Inlet Runners

Exhaust Manifold to head

Turbo to manifold

Thanks

Andrew

[maximajim]

RB25 Cam brackets show 9-12 N-m

Head bolt steps:

1) tighten 29N-m

2)Tighten 98N-m

3)loosen all

4)Tighten 25-34N-m

5)Final Tighten 93-103N-m

Inlet manifold to head:

bolt 18-22 N-m

Nut 11-13N-m

Plenum to runners:

nuts and bolts 18-22N-m

Exh manifold to head 27-31 N-m

Turbo to manifold 25-39N-m

[GiJOr33]

awesome... thankyou very much for that!

[calaistur]

maximajim,

That book doesn't tell you how to troubleshoot VCT does it??

Mine doesn't seem to be working. The mechanic says the computer is switching the solinoid but nothing seems to be happening. The head has been removed and everything pulled apart, but now its back together it doesn't work. Can you see if it says anything in the manual.

Thanks

[GiJOr33]

well my engine is going in tonight so tomorrow i'll hook up all the bits on the top and hopefully turn the key and it will start!!!

if you have a scanned image of the head and where all the vacuum and fuel hoses go that would be sweet!!!

[maximajim]

Gi your in luck

http://www.rb25det.org/rb/vacuum1.jpg

http://www.rb25det.org/rb/vacuum2.jpg

calaistur:

Sorry no, no component t/s for the VTC

But since it is a soleniod just pull the plug and check the solenoid terminals for continuity.

[GiJOr33]

fantastic... thanks HEAPS for that maximajim!!!

i'm almost finished! Just got the timing to do and put the radiator and other stuff at the front back together! Hopefully if it doesn't rain today i'll have her fired up!

i said this in another thread but i'll say it again... You are all champions... i love this forum!!! It's full of knowledge and helpful people!!!

[calaistur]

calaistur:

Sorry no, no component  t/s for the VTC

But since it is a soleniod just pull the plug and check the solenoid terminals for continuity.

I did that and there is continuity but it reads 117 ohms resistance across the terminals? Is this normal?? Does the manual say anything??

If anyone has an RB25 with VCT and a multimeter, can they check theirs for me?

Thanks guys.

[MonstaS4]

Mine reads 10.2 ohms.

I've also tested it seperately with a 12v supply and it pulls the solenoid in O.K., so i'm pretty confident it should read around this figure.

I'd suggest taking it out of the head, and doing the above - just don't short the wires together! maybe use some small spade terminals with tape around them crimped to some wire. You will hear a click if it works OK.

[calaistur]

Mine reads 10.2 ohms.

I've also tested it seperately with a 12v supply and it pulls the solenoid in O.K., so i'm pretty confident it should read around this figure.

I'd suggest taking it out of the head, and doing the above - just don't short the wires together! maybe use some small spade terminals with tape around them crimped to some wire. You will hear a click if it works OK.

Thanks for that. I just went and tested mine and I can hear the solenoid activating or clicking quite clearly. So I suppose that rules out it being the solenoid even if the resistance is a little high. I think it needs to go back on the dyno and to see if there is an audible clicking going on. If there is, then it must be a oil supply problem, if there isn't then it must be a ECU/wiring problem.

I doubt whether its an oil supply problem, as I have t'ed a hose into where the oil pressure sender unit is, to feed the VCT and my gauge is reading that I have normal oil pressure. So the other hose leading to the VCT should also be seeing that same pressure.

[maximajim]

Check for continutity between the ecu harness pin 113 and solenoid harness LG/R wire. That is the ECU ground wire. The other wire is the power source for other sensors too so it's unlikely it's the problem.