Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As the title suggests, i am after shift kitting my R34.

Too be honest, i dont know much about them and how it will benefit my existing auto gear box, I have just been told its the way to go if u have an auto.

i have been searching various threads and i have notived a lot of people are going to MV Automatics in SA to get their's done, i have also noticed their are different types too (stage1, stage2...).

What would be the most suitable shift kit for a daily drive, but has that extra punch too?

On estimate, would anyone know how much i would be looking at incl. installation?

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well im going to be installing a cooling pro intercooler before i get the shift kit installed.

Other than that so far, there isnt much work done yet

I guess i would like to do some more mods in the near future, so a kit that would give me that option would be handy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is an easy and cheap way to do a simple shift kit that any auto-trans place should be capable of doing..

Drop the pan, remove the 1-2 and 2-3 shift accumulator pistons & springs from the valve body, replace with welsh plugs (50mm IIRC).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay.

But in regards to actually getting it done by a place that specialises in it (MV Automatics).

What stage shift kit should i be looking at; i have noticed a stage2 is the most common for people to get

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, that's why I asked about how modded the car is. How tight you make the shifts on an auto depends on what you're going to be doing with it and how hard you're going to be hitting it (such as it going to the drags - which given you're in SA is not the case, at least legally). If you're making big power then you need to shorten the shifts up to control clutch slip and stop the transmission eating itself. The more power, the more you shorten the shifts.

The shorter the shifts, the better the shifts are when you're hammering, but the nastier they are when you're just driving normally. So, as with all such modifications, there's compromise to be had.

Just arbitrarily saying "I want a stage 2 kit" (because all the cool kids have got one) is the wrong approach. (I'm not saying that's the way you were asking, but it was almost that way). The correct approach is to lay out the power and usage pattern to the tranny guys and let them tell you what is a sensible way to mod the tranny. Or, if you're going to ask on a forum, it's the same. Tell the story, invite the full recommendation.

cheers

Edited by GTSBoy
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shift kits are a pain to live with...I can just tolerate mine because it has a loose stall that dampens it a bit, but mine is a proper built box with extra clutches etc which doesnt help.

But plenty of low speed diff clunks and neck breaking upshifts to be had

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did the welshplug mod to the tiptronic in my Stagea and for a mildly modded car that was struggling big time on the 1-2 shift it made a WORLD of difference but wasn't overly harsh in anyway.

The pretty much instant 1-2 shift makes for good times when the old bus starting spinning the tyres :whistling:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@GTSBoy

So in the sense that more power requires shorter shifts..... If i am to mod the engine, would i be better off getting a shift kit after i have done these modifications, and getting a shift kit that can maintain that power?

too be honest with u, i dont know what mods i'll be doing next, and thats why, when i was looking thru the forums i noticed that the majority of people who have auto's whether they have smaller mods or have done extreme mods, on average i have seen that people have installed stage2 kits.

I dont have all the money in the world to turn my car into a dragger, and i dont plan on racing at all.

Im not the type of person to take the attitude of being 'cool' cos i have a skyline either, all i want is my car too be responsive when changing gears in tiptronic/auto.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i agree with bubba.. i had my auto serviced and while they were at it did the accumalator mod. cost me $20,shifts are instant and firmer..gets rid of that hesitation between gears. forget the shift kit in a stock street car its not needed.

Edited by rgr34
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Funnilly enough, I was told by MV that the kits do result in a stronger box, but then again I raised the question before I sent my transmission off to them to build it.

The stage 2 kit is completely OK for driving around on the street, the first to 2nd shift can be a bit 'extreme' when putting along at 20kmh, but it's not like a neck snapping, tyre screeching experience driving along normally at 20% throttle.

At least mine isn't. If you are in SA, then MV are the obvious choice to go to. I am pretty sure they can do whatever you need done, but you have to know what you need first (like most things!)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did the welshplug mod to the tiptronic in my Stagea and for a mildly modded car that was struggling big time on the 1-2 shift it made a WORLD of difference but wasn't overly harsh in anyway.

The pretty much instant 1-2 shift makes for good times when the old bus starting spinning the tyres :whistling:

Get the welsh plugs, change the fluid, put in a bigger atf cooler and save up for a manual box!

Can anyone recommend a place in Melbourne for doing a basic AT service and the welsh plugs mod? Someone who knows Tiptronic boxes?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My housemate actually has an MV Autos built box for sale. Unsure of exact specs on the box (shift kit, stally etc) but if you plan on power mods in the future it would be a great bargain. PM me if you're interested.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
    • Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
    • Is the RB26 actually that far off the mark? Honestly from where I'm sitting a VR38DETT is not actually that much more advanced than the RB26. Yes, there is a scavenge pump on the VR38, it's smarter in a number of ways but it's not actually jumping out to me as alien technology. Something like a B58 or V35A-FTS on the other hand has so many surprising little design features that add up to be something that just isn't comparable. 
×
×
  • Create New...