Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't know how your tracks work in au?

But I have to let off at 1/8th in order to keep running.

So I determine my runs by the 60 footer.

Which I have nailed a 1.8 sec

Pwr in the 0.26 which my friend in he's gsx 600 has that

Which is basically the same as the Citroen xsara wrc Rally race car only with better launch capabilities.

it sure rocks my internal organs lol

Not a fan anymore of drag racing

Now I'm NASA and looking forward for some touge runs.

Not mentioning drag racing is kind of dead here.

Imports that is????

  • Replies 231
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

1.8 on drag radials? Should be lower than that!!!

I was putting down 1.9-2.0 60fts with 220rwkw and average 225 street tyres... Probably had a tread-wear of 250-300.

And around 2.0-2.2 60fts with over 300rwkw

Practice makes perfect!

I wish my Skyline was a calais turbo, it would be worth more, I predict they will rise in price even more whereas my skyline is deprecating like a lead ballon.

I've even been looking for a clean cheap one to do up.

Some one sell me one, cash, I doesn't even need a motor.

^_~ at Skyline owners who want to turn sports cars into drag cars (apart from R33 GTS-T owners as they are the new Calais Turbo)

10 second cars generally need overnight parts from Japan

Yet you go on R35 forums and everyone is willy waving and patting themselves on the back for the impressive stock 1/4 mile times of the car they just bought.

At least most GTST owners know the business end of a spanner.

Hell we even have to change gears the old fashioned way!

F1 will go back to manual gearboxes soon. Mark my words.

It's the only way to be for people who actually appreciate driving and CAN drive.

If you watch that video of senna taking the NSX around Suzuka you will understand.

You just can't exercise that sort of flair and craft in an auto car.

It's too easy.

F1 will go back to manual gearboxes soon. Mark my words.

It's the only way to be for people who actually appreciate driving and CAN drive.

If you watch that video of senna taking the NSX around Suzuka you will understand.

You just can't exercise that sort of flair and craft in an auto car.

It's too easy.

Not a chance, the time lost during shifts would win or lose a race, I'll bet you a beer, and I take beer bets very seriously.

Not a chance, the time lost during shifts would win or lose a race, I'll bet you a beer, and I take beer bets very seriously.

I think he isn't arguing the fact that the auto box is faster, but more the thrill and the more hands on work of driving a manual car over an auto. I get sick of manual when driving through traffic, but I get bored shitless when I am driving an auto through fun roads. When you are shifting gears, holding your wheel and controlling your feet, you feel like you are in full control rather than just planting your foot and looking straight.

It's just unlikely F1 teams will de-engineer a car to go slower, I like driving manuals to but then I'm not racing for sheep stations in a billion dollar environment.

Back on topicish, autos are good for the drags.

And I'm loving this thread, its got everything.

<br />Lol<br />My bad <br />Sure didn't sound right tho...<br />That was with falken tires.<br />I will see if I can find my old slips.<br />Here is my car before the NASA upgrades<br /><img src="http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii208/humlebee/9e325454.jpg" /><br />
<br /><br /><br />

Nice structural radiator you have there.

Fluidyne radiator, ps cooler, oil cooler

They do great stuff

Car runs at 160 to 168 degrees all the time.aero work diff cooler turbo intake and suspension.

Lots and lots of things I most change

Easy way is to replace those old rear cross member bushing in favor of solid aluminum bushings.

Both cross member and diff.

A 1.5 LSD and a engine torque damper.

Sprung type clutches if you care about your stock tranny.

There is lots of things you can do to improve your 60 footer

Such as one piece drive shaft etc...

Mazworx has spend yrs on Silvia's so he was my guide.

I had also a spare set of rear wheels.

All I had to do is swap rims.

Edited by koe

The art of torque and successfully transferring torque to the ground.

We're go big or go home is law

We're alcohol and nos is the two hands of god

Displacement and flow is your only bible

Antilag and gear ratios is you mom and dad

That was my mentality.

I could never get my leg to stop shaking like a wet dog tho........

I guess all my adrenaline goes to my right leg , when I was drag racing.

Can't say I hated it.

The only way it stopped was flooring down the gas pedal like if I wanted to pierce the front fire wall lol

It hade a mind of its own I guess... ;)

It's just unlikely F1 teams will de-engineer a car to go slower,

You mean like how traction control was removed, engine sizes made smaller and rev limits reduced?

De-engineering comes from F1 rules not what the teams want. They would be driving computer controlled V8 turbos with continuously variable transmissions if they had free reign.

Fluidyne radiator, ps cooler, oil cooler

They do great stuff

Car runs at 160 to 168 degrees all the time.aero work diff cooler turbo intake and suspension.

Lots and lots of things I most change

Easy way is to replace those old rear cross member bushing in favor of solid aluminum bushings.

Both cross member and diff.

A 1.5 LSD and a engine torque damper.

Sprung type clutches if you care about your stock tranny.

There is lots of things you can do to improve your 60 footer

Such as one piece drive shaft etc...

Mazworx has spend yrs on Silvia's so he was my guide.

I had also a spare set of rear wheels.

All I had to do is swap rims.

My stock driveline besides a jim berry clutch 268kw with hard as drift suspension. Sitting really low. S13 launched consistent 1.65 60ft with 11.03

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
×
×
  • Create New...