Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The only upgrade to my drift car in terms of suspension at the moment is Tien HR coilovers and some adjustable tie rods. Even after putting in the coilovers the car feels a bit saggy and rolly.

So my question is should i get some fatter sway bars front and rear or get some better coilovers? I want to eliminate roll and have a nice stiff setup, What sway bars would you reccomend? and should i have it on the front or the rear?

Put a whitline on the back and on front keep either stock or no swaybar at all. Also important tO invest in the basic camber and castor arms so you can get a decent alighnment to drift.

What are the spring rates on the current coilovers?

Only suspension mods on mine atm are some Coilovers with 12/10 rates. Would like to sort out some swaybars one day, but it's good enough for now.

Is it a drift only car? (i.e unregistered etc).

Edited by Run-It-Hard

They will probably be 8kg front and 6kg rear, you can put stiffer springs in but it could badly effect the life of your dampers. Having said that people still do it. Maybe look at 12kg/mm front and 10kg/mm rear. The ride will be very harsh though, not sure if this is your daily or not.

Nah mate not a dailey at all. dedicated drift car, its my first drift car as im still learning but its not a dailey in any way.

Hmmm, hard choice, so many different opinions, ive heard of people removing the front sway bar completley but i thought this would give more body roll? And i assumed the front sway bar needed to be upgraded for rwd cars not the rear? deano what swaybar did you throw in the rear?

Theres some bad advice in this thread. stiffer is not better. You need some body roll in order to transition correctly. For example.my car runs 8/6 coilovers (bc er) with eliminated rear sway bar and stock front sway bar. It rolls but its well controlled. Another thing to remember is that if your roll centre is up shit creek it will roll excessively.

I'm very very very new to drifting, but from what i've read/ the cars i've seen most people seem to run spring rates stiffer than 8/6 usually around the 12kg mark, generally drifting will be on solid smooth surfaces, you can deal with these sort of spring rates and they will aid your slides, compared to something 8kg or 6kg which would be too sloppy for track drifting. 8kg or 6kg spring are not very stiff at all.

I'm very very very new to drifting, but from what i've read/ the cars i've seen most people seem to run spring rates stiffer than 8/6 usually around the 12kg mark, generally drifting will be on solid smooth surfaces, you can deal with these sort of spring rates and they will aid your slides, compared to something 8kg or 6kg which would be too sloppy for track drifting. 8kg or 6kg spring are not very stiff at all.

you got it all wrong. 8/6 for a nissan is fine for drift. its actually a very stiff rate. you may notice some cars like supras and chasers running 12 kg springs but thats due to different suspension leverages requiring different rates.

an 8/6 combo with quality shocks works wonders for drift.

works510: im very happy with the ER's had no probslems with them at all.. they have done a full season now with zero signs of issues.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks! Will get it looked at before winter 🥶 other than that she's a mint ride love it aye 
    • FWIW a lot of the local owners that do a big build tend to have cars that are perpetually broken. 
    • I just got this system but haven’t installed yet I got a Moroso sealed box (defect reasons) which will be set up same as their pic The quality is high grade, the correspondence I had with the owner (former head designer for Rockford Fosgate) was unbelievable, guiding me with what I needed. Even told me not to buy some things as it could be sorted in a different way at his loss. Just a bit of a bite with the exchange rate and don’t purchase gear in 1 hit that goes over $1,000 au, lol I forgot!  
    • Thanks mate for that reply. Very helpful.    it’s a 2022 400R so would most likely lose those features as you say.     I did a quick compare of a rv37 nav and heading for sale in Japan to q50 model. I’ll pop pics below. Seems  Japan spec head into top, nav unit second below it   below pic Q50 aud delivered     differences seem to be Aus delivered has a different plug top left hand side of head unit- not sure what and where it goes.   and nav unit Japanese tv37 had an extra plug put    Again I’m really not sure what each of these differences mean!       the actual plugs on a v37 and q50 screens look identical on both screens… pics below for comparing. (One screen was is a us delivered one) but should be same gps signals etc as Australia.    If it were as simple as swapping a nav unit from q50 aud delivered im interested -just want to figure out what the missing plug is for before spending big $ on a second hand part for it to not work, and I guess with the head unit, if the band expander does the job (I got a 20mHz so should get the range I’m after) so should narrow my issue down to nav unit only.  I’d love to know what the extra cable on rv37 does and if I eliminate that part what it’ll do to the setup,    and also, if I can figure out what that head unit plug difference is, what does that cable do and where does it got can it be altered or re-plugged?! Excuse my ignorance what is ACP/AA, what does that stand for? (Apple car play? Android air play)? so If I swapped head units to save using a band expander, I’d likely lose those better features to have an oem Unit operational. Better to use a band expander and retain AirPlay options and newer version of head unit     provably best to band expand it, and focus on the nav unit. th isn’t  a big deal/ would be cool to have it working  from what I can tel we use a PAL Signal and Japan uses a NTSC signal  I don’t know if there’s a co better or if the screen only reads NTSC, or if it’s the tv module that needs replacing… no big deal don’t need it but more of a curiosity thing on that!   Thanks for the info re tyre sensors, helpful and great to know.  I was reading the online manual off Japan website and it seemed to make it sound more confusing than it is  I guess a rim replacement would require the sensors to be moved to a new rim to carry that option over?!     Thanks for the info regarding diagnostic mode. I appreciate your help mate. Trying to brainstorm here to find a solution to get as much gadgets as I can working! I plan to get my local Nissan tech to have a look too who used to be at an Infiniti dealer back in the day to see if any thing they have or idea can find a soliton. But hoping anyone here has gone down the same route to make life easier!!   i guess identifying the cable/plug differences and what they do would be a great way of finding out if the units are transferable    thanks again 
    • No idea about the remote start part. If the V37 nav is anything like other Nissan JDM vehicles, you can't get the factory Japanese nav working in australia, a card from a different car almost certainly won't work, those cards are usually matched to the serial number of the DCU.  You could be possibly swap out the components from a AuDM Q50 to get it working, but if this is a new model (2021+) 400R, then you will lose the newer features like ACP/AA.  That said, if you have ACP/AA, just use google maps.. I assume a band expander would be required to get the local radio stations, but don't forget the Japanese FM band is narrower than ours, so you still might not be able to receive all Australian stations. I can't see any reason the tyre pressure sensors won't work here, there is the sensor unit inside the rim and the receiver nearby in the wheel well.  I have never had to change the batteries on my 2015 Q50, so I assume they last quite a while.  A straight battery change shouldn't need them to be re-registered as they are the same unit, that should only be required if you replace a sensor with a new one.   Word of warning, if you ever go into the 'secret' diagnostics mode on the main screen, DO NOT EVER do a 'reset' in this menu, it will erase all of your model specific data in the DCU and you will need a trip to a dealer to re-program it all, which would be particularly painful being an import.  This applies to the AuDM Q50 too.
×
×
  • Create New...