Jump to content
SAU Community

Setting Up My Christmas Greddy Profec

Manuel Kasko

By Manuel Kasko,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
Posted

Hey guys

So I got a Greddy Profec 2 for Christmas off the partner and its proving to be a pain to setup.

I ended up tapping into the vac line that the stock gauge uses (dont know if this is an issue)

Right now it seems to not want to go over 6psi

If anyone knows anything about these then let me know.

Settings I currently have it set to.

SET: 35%

GAIN: 5%

SET GAIN (start boost): 7psi

WARNING: 11psi

LIMITER: 5%

I think there might be a vac leak because when I pull the line off the nipple on the intercooling piping that goes to the solinode and the VAC on my gauge does not change a bit.

On idle sites around probably 20 or so

This makes me think there is already a big enough vac leak that by me doing this does not cause any issues

Here is a picture of what my VAC looks like when coming off throttle. (very bad)

1zf0xfb.jpg

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

Scrarching my head - so u connected it to the boost gauge sensor? Or the stock boost solenoid near the turbo?

U need to run it from the cooler pipe to the NEW boost controller solenoid then to the wastegate.

Then T into a vacuum/boost source such as the stock boost gauge sensor on firewall and run that one into the cabin into the boost controller

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Haha nah sorry

The controller is hooked up to the actuator and the nipple on the cooler piping. All correct.

But my gauge sits at around -20 VAC

When I pull the line off the intercooler piping the VAC does not change is that normal? Or should the vac drop because it's got now an exposed nipple on the intercooler piping?

It also sounds like a sewing machine on boost which leads me to believe its defiantly got a leak somewhere.

But one question as well is for the boost gauge part of the profec I pulled the hose off from the stock vacuume line where it enters the air intake and ran a hose straight to my profec. Is that okay to do?

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

Can u post up a pic of the vacuum line ur talking about?

The cooler pipe line is before the throttle body so it wint really affect ur gauge reading after the throttle body. If that makes sense?

What do u mean by a sewing machine?

Try upping the gain to 15, set the boost warning to 15psi.

Watch the boost gauge and see if it holds flat or if it oscillates up and down

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I will take a pic tomorrow of the vac line it comes out of the back of the intake manifold and normally goes to the stock gauge inside the car. Instead I pulled it off and ran my own pipe from it to my gauge in the car

Just has a sewing machine noise hard to describe but as it spools it has a noise like a sewing machine lol

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
  • Author
Posted

My phone network is down so I cant get pics.

Right now I fiddled with the setup and the T now goes into the fuel regulator VAC line

I put the stock gauge VAC line back onto the back of the intake manifold.

Anyone know of a simple technique to find a VAC leak?

I tried spraying the hoses with "start ya bastered" to see if I could hear a change in revs but I cant find it

When coming off WOT the gauge shows -30 VAC and the Greddy unti shows -99 VAC

Both of which are the lowest numbers they can display

hardsteppa Grand Master

hardsteppa

Posted
Posted
I think there might be a vac leak because when I pull the line off the nipple on the intercooling piping that goes to the solinode and the VAC on my gauge does not change a bit.

. It won't, I believe this part is under mild pressure at idle. Pull a vac line off after the throttle plate and see if the idle changes.
Just has a sewing machine noise hard to describe but as it spools it has a noise like a sewing machine lol
u sure it's not just the boost controller solenoid clicking away, they can be pretty loud.
Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I pull hoses off and it does not really change so the VAC at -30 is pretty normal?

I think I had it the wrong way around I was thinking your vac went lower when you had a VAC leak.

So if I had a leak I would expect the number to increas to say -20?

the ticking might be the solenoid then I guess because I have never had one I always used the boost T.

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

yes its normal to drop lower when you come off WOT, -30 in that case would be fine

you really need to show us how its been hooked up from where to where.

have you tried upping the boost or what? make sure you have the solenoid hooked up right too in terms of in and out

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I wish I could get a photo but as I said I am with vodafone so nothing is working haha

The car is running great though.

Boost is tuned for 8psi and 10psi for 2 settings.

It all seems to be running fine now guys

When I get back from the coast I will post up some pictures

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OakvilleGTR
      Turn signal wiring question

      By OakvilleGTR · Posted

      Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • sonicii
      Lower A arm Skyline v35

      By sonicii · Posted

      The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Red Sky II
      Looking for autoelectrician in Perth who can do the OEM to double din stereo upgrade.

      By Red Sky II · Posted

      Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...