Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

Im at that time now in my build where the head work is going to start!

To give you guys some info before i start asking questions -

Build is going to be a track / weekend car

turbo choice was 2860-5's which i know are not the best choice for track because ive read up but i really also want some neat power figure too

so at the end of the day i need the quickest spool up i can and im sure the selection of cams will aid it...

ok i was stuck with alot of gashed to the crap lifters and rusty worn cams in the head so i ventured to nissan and got a quote for lifters at $98 bux each i told them they can keep them lol!

so im forced into buying tomei solid lifters which require small base circle cams.... so the cycle continues .... now i need cams to suit these buckets right?

minimum of 10.25mm lift tomei cams are required for these lifters so i was going to go with the 260deg 10.25mm or the 270deg 10.25mm tomei pro cams now can some 1 send me in the right direction for info on what combo i need? i hear that head modification is needed if i go to big a cam...

im kind of stuck because i dont know which size cam will give what result... like i said earlier i got -5's is any cam adjustable to give better spool ? and i dont wana hear it about the turbo choice lol strictly cam talk / advice only please..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/386580-time-for-camshafts/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeh issue is i really dont wana spend 2300 bux on just nissan lifters i need to use the small base circle camshafts which start at 10.25mm lift... these suit the tomei solid lifters :( can u elaborate?

Have you looked at the Mines Cams? 252 @ 10.05 mm.

I currently have 270's @ 10.25 on a 2.8 (on -5's), the intake cam is advanced 12 degrees and the power curve still isnt dropping off at 9000 RPM.

The mines cams do come with buckets aswell. You may cough at the price (which is why alot of people don't run them), but when adding up the cams + buckets, they're not that much more exxy.

Have you looked at the Mines Cams? 252 @ 10.05 mm.

I currently have 270's @ 10.25 on a 2.8 (on -5's), the intake cam is advanced 12 degrees and the power curve still isnt dropping off at 9000 RPM.

The mines cams do come with buckets aswell. You may cough at the price (which is why alot of people don't run them), but when adding up the cams + buckets, they're not that much more exxy.

http://www.mines-wave.com/E_09/CATALOG/P_Eg_CAMSHAFT_SHORE_Pro2_E.html

these the ones you are talking about yeh? 350-400 awkw possible?? i just want the parts i put in capeable of reaching more if i choose also ...

http://www.mines-wav...ORE_Pro2_E.html

these the ones you are talking about yeh? 350-400 awkw possible?? i just want the parts i put in capeable of reaching more if i choose also ...

Have a look at Nismoid's car. 365RWKW on stock cams.

Ash lol fuuuuu i stand corrected crank and valves are still standard cant use stock cams the buckets and cams are f*ked ???!

Look i just want the best Option to use since i cant use genuine bukets

Have you looked at the Mines Cams? 252 @ 10.05 mm.

I currently have 270's @ 10.25 on a 2.8 (on -5's), the intake cam is advanced 12 degrees and the power curve still isnt dropping off at 9000 RPM.

The mines cams do come with buckets aswell. You may cough at the price (which is why alot of people don't run them), but when adding up the cams + buckets, they're not that much more exxy.

If your that far advanced and the power isnt dropping off at that rpm then those cams have dropped your dynamic comp that much it probly won't really react to much cam timing movement at all. I think it would be a wise choice to go to the smaller duration 252 @10mm lift. I would think that you would gain responses without loosing too much top end.

To the original poster I would recommend the same cams if you must go with that bucket size change.

Small duration, no overlap and as much lift as you can.

I love that comment because in a variable cam engine overlap is exactly what you want at low to medium revs!

But I agree with small duration and lots of lift - as long as the valve train can handle the ramps/inertia

What? You mean huge duration isn't good for a street car? :woot:

Depends on how much power your street car is making and what the turbocharger configuration is.

rob82...why do you want overlap for at low revs with a highly restrictive exhaust side?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...