Jump to content
SAU Community

Turbo Questions


Ericjayrol
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey guys!

I've had my non turbo R34 for the last two years and I'm getting off my P plates soon and wanna jump into a turbo R34 25GT.

The thing is my whole family is turbo illiterate and there isn't anyone to show me the ropes.

I was wondering a few things...

Is it true that the turbo R34 will burn oil? I know a good car isn't supposed to burn any oil, but I've heard that turbos will, even of they don't have anything wrong with them, is this correct?

What additional requirements are there to get a turbo car serviced? Aside from shorter intervals between services, what is actually being done that is different?

Warming up the car, I never run my r34 hard until the engine is completely warmed up, I've heard turbos need to warm up, is the turbo warm when the car is?

How much more am I expecting on insurance to my current non turbo?

Any other turbo tips or information would be much appreciated, including things to look out for when inspecting one.

Thanks =)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys!

I've had my non turbo R34 for the last two years and I'm getting off my P plates soon and wanna jump into a turbo R34 25GT.

The thing is my whole family is turbo illiterate and there isn't anyone to show me the ropes.

I was wondering a few things...

Is it true that the turbo R34 will burn oil? I know a good car isn't supposed to burn any oil, but I've heard that turbos will, even of they don't have anything wrong with them, is this correct?

What additional requirements are there to get a turbo car serviced? Aside from shorter intervals between services, what is actually being done that is different?

Warming up the car, I never run my r34 hard until the engine is completely warmed up, I've heard turbos need to warm up, is the turbo warm when the car is?

How much more am I expecting on insurance to my current non turbo?

Any other turbo tips or information would be much appreciated, including things to look out for when inspecting one.

Thanks =)

No

Nothing

Not needed

Depends

A turbo car is still just a car mate. They work exactly the same as any other car. They shouldn't burn oil, they don't need anything special for regular services really, although some people might argue better filters etc. I use the best filters and oils anyway, they're cheap so why not. Things like spark plug gaps will only change when you start modifying etc. The turbo will be hot at the same time as your engine, just think of them as another part of your exhaust.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Service the car properly I use full synthetic oil and copper plugs. Only use high octane fuel 98 min. Iv never heard of 34 turbos burning oil. The oil will burn if you thrash it and not let it cool down properly. Insurance will be higher as expected. If you look after it the car will last and don't turn the boost over 12 pound on stock turbo as 14 is max and you rush a blowen turbo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No

Nothing

Not needed

Depends

A turbo car is still just a car mate. They work exactly the same as any other car. They shouldn't burn oil, they don't need anything special for regular services really, although some people might argue better filters etc. I use the best filters and oils anyway, they're cheap so why not. Things like spark plug gaps will only change when you start modifying etc. The turbo will be hot at the same time as your engine, just think of them as another part of your exhaust.

Just gonna jump in here... there's a high possibility of damaging your coil packs... don't stress; shit happens.

If you do crack the bakerslite, cover it in silicon and get a 0.8mm regap done at your local server.

Remember that the guy before you may have definitely thrashed it once or twice every corner. So you may treat her nice but things like coilpacks can stem from previous abuse.

+1 to filters.

I get SCA oil filters; never had a problem. They're that company starting with Z, I always see people using them.

I think the fuel filter is best if you go with a well known brand.. can't talk from experience though.

K&N filters are freaking amazing... I can definitely vouch for them.

+1 to running on 98.. always.. never get anything else.

BP guarantee their fuel; if their Ultimate f**ks up your car, they'll pay for the repairs. Shell won't.

Depending on your area, BP are generally cheaper, too.

Boost is fun; don't be scared of it but treat it with respect.

Take it easy when you first buy it.. especially if it's rainy. Hitting 12psi going up the hill on Old Windsor Road between Abbott and Sevo Road isn't fun when your wheels don't keep traction.

Ehh all i can be bothered thinking off. Don't be scared to answer any questions.

Also.. service = change water if needed, and put new oil filters on. Do your own service whenever your speedo is something like 10500, 11500. Get a mechanic to check it whenever your speedo is every 11000, 10000, etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys!

I've had my non turbo R34 for the last two years and I'm getting off my P plates soon and wanna jump into a turbo R34 25GT.

The thing is my whole family is turbo illiterate and there isn't anyone to show me the ropes.

I was wondering a few things...

Is it true that the turbo R34 will burn oil? I know a good car isn't supposed to burn any oil, but I've heard that turbos will, even of they don't have anything wrong with them, is this correct?

I was told it is normal for the turbo charged cars to burn a bit of oil.

Oil has to cycle through the turbine in order to keep it lubricated.

What Bsa said: "The oil will burn if you thrash it and not let it cool down properly."

What additional requirements are there to get a turbo car serviced? Aside from shorter intervals between services, what is actually being done that is different?

Use a good Synthetic / Semi Synthetic engine oil and change the oil filter at the same time.

Synthetic / Semi Synthetic engine oil tend to flow more readily when cold and do not break down as quickly as conventional oils

Warming up the car, I never run my r34 hard until the engine is completely warmed up, I've heard turbos need to warm up, is the turbo warm when the car is?

Always good to warm up a car no matter if Turbo / N/A.

I always check my oil temps before boosting them.

Let car warm up, drive off boost for about 10mins to get the oil cycling through and it should be good.

How much more am I expecting on insurance to my current non turbo?

I assume if you go with Just Car Insurance or Shannons they will be better on price as they cater for young drivers with high power / import vehicles.

Any other turbo tips or information would be much appreciated, including things to look out for when inspecting one.

Thanks =)

Always allow time for the turbos to cool down.

Before you get to the end of your destination, drive off boost for a few minutes.

As you drive off boost, the air goes through the engine bay to create an air cool flow effect to reduce the turbine / oil temps.

Some owners use a Turbo Timer to allow the car to idle for a few minutes, allowing the turbine to cool to a lower temperature.

Also allows the engine oil to cool / flow through the turbo.

If you do not allow cool down time, the oil lubricating inside the turbo will be trapped causing heat soak, which can lead to bearing wear..

Even small particles of burnt oil will accumulate and lead to choking the oil supply.

Cool down time is required to prevent premature turbo wear and prolong /extend the life of the turbo.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Hanaldo, think of it as part of the exhaust, never even thought about it like that before but i suppose it really is like that.

Thanks Bsa, Keep it under 12psi, i'll keep that in mind =)

Thanks Skittles, I already run my non turbo on nothing but Caltex Vortex 98 and intend to do the same with the turbo model. I also only use Ryco filters, Penrite HPR semi synthetic oils & Bosch petrol filters. I did drive a friend turbo Starion when I was at the end of my L's before i got my P's and its certainly fun to hit boost, he taught me a bit about using a turbo but nothing about maintenance or anything crucial to the ownership of a turbo car.

Thanks (OO)Skyline(OO), Those tips on cool down times will come in handy, I was told that a turbo timer would be overkill unless I plan to take it for track days and continually run it at high boost, but im using it as a road car with some fun time on the side, so I don't think it'll be necessary or required to have it cooling down for extensive periods. So those tips are very helpful.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Hanaldo, think of it as part of the exhaust, never even thought about it like that before but i suppose it really is like that.

The turbo bolts on to the exhaust manifold so in a sense, he's right.

Thanks Bsa, Keep it under 12psi, i'll keep that in mind =)

That is for stock turbo's with ceramic internals.

Anything over 12 psi is probably a no go.

Depending on how good the condition of the stock turbo is, you can still run over 12 psi but the turbo will not last long.

Unless it has been rebuilt with steel internals / aftermarket turbo upgrade, you can run anywhere from 13psi to 25+psi, depending on tune / what you are going to use the car for.

Thanks Skittles, I already run my non turbo on nothing but Caltex Vortex 98 and intend to do the same with the turbo model. I also only use Ryco filters, Penrite HPR semi synthetic oils & Bosch petrol filters. I did drive a friend turbo Starion when I was at the end of my L's before i got my P's and its certainly fun to hit boost, he taught me a bit about using a turbo but nothing about maintenance or anything crucial to the ownership of a turbo car.

Sounds good.

You'll learn about the car as you own it.

Thanks (OO)Skyline(OO), Those tips on cool down times will come in handy, I was told that a turbo timer would be overkill unless I plan to take it for track days and continually run it at high boost, but im using it as a road car with some fun time on the side, so I don't think it'll be necessary or required to have it cooling down for extensive periods. So those tips are very helpful.

Cool!

Most people on SAU think turbo timers are just for 'wank factor'.

Track cars run cool down laps after a race and then usually have the bonnet up when in the pits to vent the heat and they just sit and idle for a couple of minutes.

Like you said, it's not necessary but I see it for the convenience if you want it.

Or you can just use your clock in the car or sit and listen to your stereo and play a track that goes for about 3mins :laugh:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Personally i dont do much of a warm up with my car, give it a minute or two to get oil pressure to full and then baby it till its at the right temp, dont forget every thing else needs to get up to temp as well and it does not do it by sitting in your driveway.

As for turbo timers i dont like to shit in my own back yard, therefore if i give it some shit on the street its not where i live, after doing so i just cruise home which is enough of a cool down to be able to turn it off once your in your drive way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

give it a minute or two to get oil pressure to full and then baby it till its at the right temp, dont forget every thing else needs to get up to temp as well and it does not do it by sitting in your driveway.

Yes.

Actually, that's what I meant, when warming up the car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also forgot to mention the engine management is more important then anything on the car. When you start throwing bigger turbos snd all the fun stuff on make sure your computer is up to the task. Don't buy off the shelf tunes pay the money do it properly. I suggest getting a boost gauge as stock one sucks and maybe oil pressure for good insurance. Other then that I think everyone has covered what needs to be done

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ALL engines burn oil. . no matter how good they are or wether they are turbo or otherwise, just some use more than others

Yes, but when you speak of burning oil I would assume that you are talking about a noticeable loss. I don't know about you, but my engine doesn't use any noticeable amount of oil in the 3000kms until it's next oil change.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you wont notice any change in the oil level as the oil is polluted (topped up) by petrol. . .therefore replacing any missing oil, engines burn oil by design as oil sitting in the cross hatch of the bore gets pushed up into the combustion chamber (microscopic amounts) by the piston and burnt on the combustion stroke

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Start it and drive it, ECU's have a cold start function for a reason, just don't load it up until things are nice and warm and that includes the driveline!

If it takes a few minutes to reach your maximum oil pressure then you have problems.. on cold start I've got 100psi within seconds of the engine firing :blink:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys!

I've had my non turbo R34 for the last two years and I'm getting off my P plates soon and wanna jump into a turbo R34 25GT.

The thing is my whole family is turbo illiterate and there isn't anyone to show me the ropes.

I was wondering a few things...

Is it true that the turbo R34 will burn oil?only if its completely stuffed, otherwise very little I know a good car isn't supposed to burn any oil, but I've heard that turbos will, even of they don't have anything wrong with them, is this correct?turbo will burn oil if seals are worn, otherwise they are fine

What additional requirements are there to get a turbo car serviced?use a good quality synthetic,service at factory intervals or more frequentlyAside from shorter intervals between services, what is actually being done that is different?

Warming up the car, I never run my r34 hard until the engine is completely warmed up, I've heard turbos need to warm up, is the turbo warm when the car is?it sits in the exhaust flow so it should get as warm as the rest of the engine

How much more am I expecting on insurance to my current non turbo?if you are under 25 then expect to pay a lot more

Any other turbo tips or information would be much appreciated, including things to look out for when inspecting one.get it inspected/tested by RAC or equivilant before you buy

Thanks =)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I said burns oil, I mean't you need to top it up weekly. My N/A skyline at the moment has not required a single top up between services, every time i check it, it's still completely full.

Whereas my Ford Laser with over 250,000kms on the clock has started to need weekly top ups of about quarter of the dip stick, and that has only started to happen recently and i put it down to something gone wrong as far as wear and tear.

Computer management, thanks, i'll keep that in mind, I think i heard something about Apexi being a good replacement, i think Apexi FC was the one i was reading into? a good one for Stage 1 upgrades, as i still want to keep the car an easy driver, but have some fun and still able to kick it a little when some annoying pulsar pulls up at the lights.

I intend to get a boost gauge, although im still contemplating where to mount it, I don't want it to be a defect, i believe it can't be above the dash, like i really would like to have it =(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



×
×
  • Create New...