Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Um.......there's 2 lines that come from the front of the car and connect to the rack at the rear. Connect one of the ones that comes from the front to the other one that comes from the front, and the job is done. FWIW, the photo you've attached looks to be the correct spot. Driver's side, forward of the rear subframe. But you don't "cut" anything. There's fittings right there.

the lines in the photo are not at the rear subframe, they are at the front, driver side near the kframe. the fittings you see there, i had to remove and remove the lines from there rearward so the hicas rack could come out. the only lines left there are the ones infront of those fittings.

OK, it's been a while since I looked at mine.  What fittings are visible at the lock solenoid closer to the rear subframe?<br /><br />Regardless, I think you can loop them at the front fittings.  Perhaps look here http://nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=185697

It's a little different between the effort to loop them at the back (most people do this) and looping it at the front to remove all the HICAS pipework.

cheers

Edited by GTSBoy

Yup i need to loop at the front as i removed all the rear hicas stuff and the lines. its just hard to tell what is what from the pictures in those guides because theres alot of lines under car and in the engine bay. will have another look tommorow

think i got it now....pictures below.. look right?

First pic refering to :

If you look just in front of the engine cross member, you will see a few power steering lines (steel pipes). one of these goes into a high pressure fitting and then into the hicas solenoid. get a hacksaw and cut through this steel pipe, connect your hose onto it, hose clamp it and feed it up through the car.

Second pic refering to :

On the line that goes back the solenoid you will see a short ~15cm long moulded rubber hose held on with hose clamps. take this off and then put your other hose that you just put on from the bottom onto the aluminium pipe, not into the solenoid, then hose clamp it.

29122011001.jpg

29122011004.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was £307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
    • To be fair - you see the same thing for every clutch. There's always someone making an installation error.
    • Just saw this, redacted names. It's on a R33 GTS-t Facebook group. Looks like still teething issues.
×
×
  • Create New...