Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In passing I have read on US-UK forums that with E85 boost pressures have all gone through the roof and unless you are running a racing oil with loads of zinc and phosphorous then you will find that 2bar on a bush bearing turbo will end up with poor lifespan of the turbo.

Since moving to Melb 8 years ago I have always run Castrol Edge but am tempted to revert back to Mobil 1 Racing...depsite it being a head fark to source

There was something I read somewhere that they stripped the turbos after heavy dyno running and holding under heavy load in top gear and the oils that are full of fluff for highway emmissions and economy, even the premium street oils resulted in heavy fouling around the bearing and discolouration of the bearings. The turbos didnt fail...just said they were showing all the signs of increased wear after only some rather sever dyno pulls and loading.

i also run this with my oil.. mainly cause i get it cheap and ive heard some fantastic things from it.

2781.png

have been running my stock bottom end RB30e with 26 head and supporting mods pushing 400 rwkw for a year now, its a competition drift car so loads of sustained rpm. I had the motor out recently to do rear main and few other seals and i pulled the sump off to chuck a washer in the stock oil pump spring to bump the pressure up a bit and while i was at it i checked a couple of bearings. they were mirror finish perfect pretty much so i figure the oil + additive must be doing something right!

i dont know the exact science behind it but its a anti friction compound with a host of other things to prevent wear under demanding conditions. maybe someone else can shed some light?

im in no way endorsed by the company... just sharing my experiences with the product

Short of time ATM but if you do lots of net research , who sleeps at night anyway , the story looks like this .

The GREEN slimes of this world are paranoid that good anti wear additives ie ZDDP end up coating and killing cat converters over time so these are slowly being reduced in oils intended for "Modern Engines" so be wary when you see this on oil containers .

Long short , diesel engines because of their high torque low rev nature create very high loadings on their bearings and gudgeon pins etc so they need good anti wear additives . When you look into diesel specific oils they appear to have lots of what we need and it doesn't necessarily have to be mega expensive like Ripco bought Mobil 1 .

Remember how many Yank sites have been praising things like shell Rotella T6 5W40 ? Mobil and others make similar kinds of things and whilst not $20 cheap it aint 70 - 100 either . Means you can afford to change it more often .

Bacon force can't know whats in your sump and I wouldn't think the RTA/EPA is likely to sample it either .

Do some reading on (I think) CJ4 and CI4 rated oils and don't be afraid if it leads you to a diseasel spec oil . I'm sure most of you lie awake at night stressing about your cat ...

A .

I did see it recently but didn't get time to search for a product called ZDDPlus . Worth a look .

i also run this with my oil.. mainly cause i get it cheap and ive heard some fantastic things from it.

2781.png

have been running my stock bottom end RB30e with 26 head and supporting mods pushing 400 rwkw for a year now, its a competition drift car so loads of sustained rpm. I had the motor out recently to do rear main and few other seals and i pulled the sump off to chuck a washer in the stock oil pump spring to bump the pressure up a bit and while i was at it i checked a couple of bearings. they were mirror finish perfect pretty much so i figure the oil + additive must be doing something right!

Funny you say about additives as not many people use them but i run the Morey's Oil Stabilizer. Best thing since sliced bread!

15027.jpg

I ran the liqui moly and it blew the seals in my 3037 within 10mins or running it. Didnt get the car out of the driveway

Have a read of this thread because it starts out with GM supposedly debunking the myths of flat tappet cams and ZDDP . MAKE sure you read it ALL because a group of open minded engineers and a group of Porsche people tell the truth about the GM mugs rubbish spiel .

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1049812

My experience with oils containing higher levels of ZDDP is that the Mobil 1 4T racing bike oils work well but you get a little more valve train noise in a 4G63T and to a slight degree in an RB25 . The mileages on these engines is 140K and 115K .

ATM I need more oil so I'm off to GL Lubricants to stock up on more Shell Rotella T6 5w40 . I've used it with no issues at all and it leads to a quieter valve train which can't be a bad thing .

Take note of the content of the above mentioned thread re detergent oils and how far back some urban myths about oil go .

Cheers A .

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Guys,

Came across this in Wheels Magazine, and a further look at their website:

http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Full_Synthetic_Engine_Oils/Full_Synthetic_10W-60_Extreme_Engine_Oil/#.UXFGO73EvqU

Fully Synthetic, API SN (Ethanol protection) and aimed at Performance or Race tuned engines. Australian Made and Looks like a winner. Any one heard of used this> Your thoughts?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
×
×
  • Create New...