E85/eflex And Oil Choice

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

people still read magazines?

[tranman]

people still read magazines?

Ha Ha, I'm pretty sure you would too, if you got the same deal I got.

I signed up for my Wheels Mag subscription which came with a free Sidchrome socket set valued at $249 (64 piece?).

The subscription itself was much less. I think $140 (2 years I think).

The value has paid for itself multiple times over, with it being used during the rebuild of my brother's WRX, not to mention good reading material for the loo as well.

[ARTZ]

Short of time ATM but if you do lots of net research , who sleeps at night anyway , the story looks like this .

The GREEN slimes of this world are paranoid that good anti wear additives ie ZDDP end up coating and killing cat converters over time so these are slowly being reduced in oils intended for "Modern Engines" so be wary when you see this on oil containers .

Long short , diesel engines because of their high torque low rev nature create very high loadings on their bearings and gudgeon pins etc so they need good anti wear additives . When you look into diesel specific oils they appear to have lots of what we need and it doesn't necessarily have to be mega expensive like Ripco bought Mobil 1 .

Remember how many Yank sites have been praising things like shell Rotella T6 5W40 ? Mobil and others make similar kinds of things and whilst not $20 cheap it aint 70 - 100 either . Means you can afford to change it more often .

Bacon force can't know whats in your sump and I wouldn't think the RTA/EPA is likely to sample it either .

Do some reading on (I think) CJ4 and CI4 rated oils and don't be afraid if it leads you to a diseasel spec oil . I'm sure most of you lie awake at night stressing about your cat ...

A .

I did see it recently but didn't get time to search for a product called ZDDPlus . Worth a look .

i use this in my BT50 diesel Disco..ci-4 rated.....Its 80$ for 10ltres I wonder how it would perform in the 33...

people still read magazines?

apparently so...

[SiR_RB]

How have people found the Penrite Racing 15, 15w-50 engine oil?

[AngryRB]

Disco- using the ZDDP appeals to me but im not sure, would the ZDDP additive alter or have any effects on the composition of the oil that's being used, example. any reactions or negative effects from the additive? If i added ZDDP additive to Mobil 1, would i be be affecting the already great qualities apart from just making it better?

[discopotato03]

If you want to use Mobil 1 synthetic you can buy it with higher ZDDP levels than the "GREEN" spec Mobil 1 oils . They make different spec oils for different purposes and some applications call for higher ZDDP percentage content .

Its not available everywhere but the sport bike M1 is called Racing 4T even though its not a competition oil . I've used the 10W40 and the 15W50 versions of this oil and had no issues . There is also a 20W50 version of it called called M1 Racing V Twin and its the one you put in a high tech Harley lump .

GL Lubricants in Sydney sell the 4T Racing 10W40 in quart containers . Check it out but from memory the ZDDP content is something like 1700 PPM though 1300 PPM is probably adequate . Its the 1000 PPM and lower levels that could be a worry with cam lobe on bucket valve trains . I honestly don't know what the story is with ball bearing turbochargers but some claim that ZDDP helps the thrust bearings survive in hard worked plain bearing turbochargers . Anyone thats read about FPs high flow plain bearing turbos for Evos knows the larger ones like I think Reds and Blacks need better than average quality lube oil .

Back to the Shell Rotella the synthetic version is called T6 and theres a lot of info and opinions about it on the web . I don't think I've ever read of anyone having bad experiences with Rotella T6 and the draw to seems to be that its reasonably good oil and not expensive by performance oil standards . You can pay more and get less ZDDP so price is not always a good indicator of durability . I'm using it in my 116K old R33 and it works fine .

A .

[Aggroman]

ok so I thought id revive this with a bit of information for you all.

Currently running 300v Competition with eflex in my 34 standard 25 neo. This oil is approx 4.5 months old (sat for one month without moving) and travelled about 3000kms.

Was driving home from work tonight and after about 2 mins from setting off I noticed my oil pressure gauge (aftermarket gauge with sensor located in oil cooler sandwich plate off the block) darting all over the place from 90psi to 60 sometimes 30psi and back up again, but really rapid movements. stationary at lights saw steady pressure too. The car had seen a windout of a few gears at work 5hrs prior with no issues that I saw.

shitty camera phone video while driving here:

At first I thought ahh shit did i crack my oil pump drive! but car was driving perfect like always so I thought maybe the gauge is faulty. Kept an eye on it but as soon as i got onto the m4 at 110 the needle sat dead on the usual 90psi. Gave it some light throttle 30-40% to see if it dropped under boost, went a few times to 0.5-1.0 bar with no issues but rather than risk it ill back off and get her home.

Monitored it all the way, after getting off the highway the pressure fluctuations came back and said to myself if I see 0psi at any stage ill switch it off and get a tow.

Almost hit 0psi when I made this recording: (still uploading)

Got her home and immediately dropped the oil, Stuff came out like water. Oil only reached about 70 deg in the 30 min drive. Got a clean and dry bottle to take a sample so ill see what the boys at work can do about getting it sent away for analysis and ill report my findings here.

Will put some fresh oil in tomorrow or monday and take it for a spin to see if the pressure fluctuations disappear which im 90% sure it will.

Here is a pic of the oil on a screwdriver but I couldn't get it to focus on it properly.

p.s. Yes I know u should change it every 3 months or 5000kms with ethanol but I was lazy, If I find out that the oil had broken down over the time I will definitely be more vigilant with oil changes like I used to.

[scotty nm35]

It looks like... oil.

Sounds like your gauge is screwed, if you actually had 0psi oil pressure you would be posting in the blown engine thread. Aren't the stock gauges renowned for this?

[Got a Pulsar]

Yep, Loose wire or bung sensor.

[Aggroman]

It looks like... oil.

Sounds like your gauge is screwed, if you actually had 0psi oil pressure you would be posting in the blown engine thread. Aren't the stock gauges renowned for this?

I wasnt trying to say it looked different i was talking about the consistency of the oil and how it was having a hard time sticking to the screwdriver almost like water.

I also said if it GOT to 0 at any stage I would have turned it off but it didnt drop to that. I also said it was aftermarket gauges so i guess u didnt want to read the whole thing hey?

changed the oil this morning took it for a drive and all is sweet, didnt touch the sensor at all.

so as I thought the oil must have broken down due to the ethanol over the 4-5 months, but hey what do I know!

Those are my findings take from it what u want.

[NYTSKY]

When I first switched to E85 I was using 300V, I found it was highly susceptible to contamination to the point where the oil had emulsified.

I consulted the Motul Rep and told me it was partly because of the Ester in the oil and the fact E85 is water miscible.

So with a few cold starts, short trips, car sitting for a periods etc etc after a while turned the oil to milk.

I have used 6100 since then and not had this happen again even though I can smell E85 in the oil when dropped.

Next oil change will be with Nulon Street and Track 15w50.

[SS8_Gohan]

just find an SN rated oil, pretty simple - then choose desired weight/viscosity - we all probably change oils enough that any SN will be fine

i think there is SN+ now as well

[discopotato03]

I've had the Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic 5W40 in my 33 25 for a few changes now inc right through the winter . It never rattles on start up and never comes out milky either . I just have the std oil pressure gauge and it never points to doom and gloom , also using genuine filters BTW .

My engine never runs filthy rich on E70 but if some peoples engines do then I imagine you'd get more oil contamination . Also if your oil runs hot enough it should boil any water condensation off and send the vapours back through the breather system .

Oil temp is going to come into this and I reckon if you drive your car for any distance and the oil temp is only 70C then you have a cool oil issue . When my Lap top is plugged in the Vipec shows the coolant temp is from 83-87C and since I run the std oil cooler/heaster I reckon the oil temp should be mostly slightly above water temp though I have no gauge set up to check it .

As for oil coming out like water if its hot and synthetic I'd expect it to anyway .

A .

[NYTSKY]

Changed my oil today.

Motul 6100, in the engine 12 months and 3000 hard kms. No sign of emulsification or dilution and surprisingly clean.

In went Nulon Street and Track 15w50. I called Nulon previously to get info on the oil and what feedback they had from customers using it in engines running E85.

I was surprised when they told me they had no feedback from customers using it (not in an RB anyway)

The guy at Nulon was interested in my feedback so ill be monitoring everything for this interval.

[Piggaz]

Why the change, Dave?

[NYTSKY]

No one particular reason, after seeing the result from this oil change the Motul 6100 is definitely a good oil.

My current supplier is no longer stocking Motul plus I want to see how a locally produced oil will perform. Go Straya!

[AngryRB]

Mobil 1 seems compatible with E85, have had mine off road for months sitting in shed and never changed its colour etc..

[fatz]

im running castrol magnatek

i dump it every 4-600 km(very hard driving) smells like the fuel big time

after reading this i may upgrade my expenditure to 50 bux a bottle like you flash blokes

[SS8_Gohan]

just find an SN rated oil, it's as simple as that.

And really, unless you're doing regular UOA, there isn't really much to tell by just looking at it. You need to monitor for a few changes to see any trends in particular metals you're looking for to indicate wear, and to see how much (if at all) the oil is breaking down.

[AngryRB]

I thought we were looking for milky residue..