Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Grounding Kit Installation Manual

Deep Dish V35
 Share

Recommended Posts

Deep Dish V35 Experienced

Deep Dish V35

Posted
Posted (edited)

im assuming that the guy who originally put the grounding kit on my car did it incorrectly as the gear changes just take for-bloody-ever. if anyone can point me to a guide for the proper bolting locations for this kit, itd be appreciated.

i didnt realise how lethargic the nissan auto was untili drove the boxster this week..

ta

Edited by Deep Dish V35
Nightcrawler Grand Master

Nightcrawler

Posted
Posted

The grounding kits do ABSOLUTELY NOTHING. Don't listen to a word anyone says if they say they do. I have put them on 3 of my previous cars and my V35 just in case they actually did something, but they don't.

And seriously, you are comparing a new (presumably dual clutch pack) $100k+ Porsche gearbox to an 8 year old V35 gearbox? WTF?

sonicii Veteran

sonicii

Posted
Posted

I have always wondered about the effectivness of grounding kits. I put one on my old J30 maxima years ago, and it did absolutly nothing. At the time I figured it was just a money making scheme for those who were too lazy to clean their factory ground points, and since I always kept connectors and ground points clean, it didn't do anyting for me.

Deep Dish V35 Experienced

Deep Dish V35

Posted
  • Author
Posted

my car comparison was simply from a point of selecting a gear in the V35 and then waiting multiple seconds for anything to happen. i have to select at 4000rpm so that it shifts by the time it gets to 6500rpm....,

its just that when driving our 2008 porsche, tiptronic is worlds apart in effectiveness. not so much the shift speed, but the shift delay..

sonicii Veteran

sonicii

Posted
Posted

And seriously, you are comparing a new (presumably dual clutch pack) $100k+ Porsche gearbox to an 8 year old V35 gearbox? WTF?

Does the boxster have a DSG? If so, then it is very unfair to compare it to any standard auto.. not just the V35 RE5.

Alkatraz Rising Star

Alkatraz

Posted
Posted (edited)

The grounding kits do ABSOLUTELY NOTHING. Don't listen to a word anyone says if they say they do. I have put them on 3 of my previous cars and my V35 just in case they actually did something, but they don't.

I have to disagree, I put one on my V36 a while ago and it definitely sped up the speed of the down changes through the paddles. If it makes any difference to power (which I doubt), it would never be enough to be noticeable and it didn't seem to make any difference to the up changes. One other thing that I have noticed is that it doesn't seem to hunt for gears as much when driving in traffic, in full automatic, previously the box seemed to take a little while to decide which gear it wanted and would sometimes stay in a lower gear for too long. This simply makes it feel a little less jerky when putting around at low speed.

If you believe that they do absolutely zero, then that's fine, but I have noticed a definite difference. Now whether it was worth the $80 or whatever it was, is another question.

Edited by Alkatraz
zei20l Grand Master

zei20l

Posted
Posted

my car comparison was simply from a point of selecting a gear in the V35 and then waiting multiple seconds for anything to happen. i have to select at 4000rpm so that it shifts by the time it gets to 6500rpm....,

its just that when driving our 2008 porsche, tiptronic is worlds apart in effectiveness. not so much the shift speed, but the shift delay..

you need a shift kit, at 4000 when you shift, the trans will shift at around 4200 or less

Deep Dish V35 Experienced

Deep Dish V35

Posted
  • Author
Posted

its not a shift kit thing. its something electrical. maybe even something in the computer that could be reprogrammed with the right scantool. i dont want it to throw itself into the mext gear and chirp the wheels, just begin the gearchange process when i push the selector.

looks like i'll have to post a video of how long it waits before changing gears. i can literally push the selector, turn the volume up on my radio, then put my hand back on the steering wheel before it does anything at all.

zei20l Grand Master

zei20l

Posted
Posted

they all do it, they are programmed to be sluggish.

mine did the same thing also.

also the position of the throttle makes a difference. if you full throttle the car, no matter where you select to change gear, it will change at redline (or close to it) again, another programming thing by the TCU

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • niZmO_Man
      Dumb rich kid tries modding for the first time

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • turbo76lx
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By turbo76lx · Posted

      Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...