Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I'm about to throw a set of 2860's on my GTR and was wondering if anyone could fill me in on what size of oil restrictor they used? Mine are a second hand set and it looks like they don't come with in-built restrictors.

Should I use a restricted banjo bolt to the engine, or should I run a small restrictor in each turbo?? I know some peeps have been running in-line 0.035" restrictors..

Any input would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/386688-gt2860-oil-restrictor/
Share on other sites

Only after market lines use a restrictor at the turbo when you are feeding it with a -4 size hose from a main oil gallery. The size restrictor you need for after market lines can be found on www.atpturbo.com.

If you use the factory oil lines, there is no need for an extra restrictor. Where the oil comes from the block, the banjo fitting that goes into the block has an internal restrictor. I think it is labeled with an "M" on it. The factory lines are better quality than anything else on the market anyway.

If your coolant and oil lines are looking a little shoddy, take them to a brake line place and have them nickel plated. They will look like new then, and you will also get addicted to plating everything that unscrews from your engine bay!

correct me if im wrong but the 32 and 33gtr never had built in oil restrictors as their turbos were never BB from factory unlike the 34 gtr.

i used a 0.8mm restrictor on my banjo bolts for the oil line on the turbo whcih i got from kando dyanmic on ebay.

correct me if im wrong but the 32 and 33gtr never had built in oil restrictors as their turbos were never BB from factory unlike the 34 gtr.

i used a 0.8mm restrictor on my banjo bolts for the oil line on the turbo whcih i got from kando dyanmic on ebay.

I'll save you the search.... all standard and vspec R32/r33/r34 gtr turbo's are ball bearing and ceramic turbine wheeled. N1 options are steel wheel, and ball bearing. All require restrictors.

Even bush bearing turbo's require restrictors. If you run any turbo without a restrictor, expect to see oil in your intake and exhaust as the oil can't escape down the drain quickly enough. Only with very big drains will you not get an over-flow issue, but its still not the right way to do it.

The Trust T517z's bush bearing 8cm and 10cm kits for example come with restrictors in the banjo fittings that go into the turbo's. They are a different size to the factory restrictor.

I'll save you the search.... all standard and vspec R32/r33/r34 gtr turbo's are ball bearing and ceramic turbine wheeled. N1 options are steel wheel, and ball bearing. All require restrictors.

:huh:http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tbroom/Turbos.htm

HKS supply additional restrictors in the banjo bolts on there gtss and gtrs turbos kits

GCG have told me that on the 2860's they have built in restrictors

:huh:http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tbroom/Turbos.htm

HKS supply additional restrictors in the banjo bolts on there gtss and gtrs turbos kits

GCG have told me that on the 2860's they have built in restrictors

Back when I used to listen to what people told me... I had heard that statement many times before as well.

I beleived it too, until I had first hand experience with oil in the intake and exhaust because the 3/4" oil return couldn't copy with 75psi oil pressure. Then I was advised to replace the turbo for a new one, only to continue having the problem. Nobody ever asked how the turbo was getting its oil supply, which was a -4 braided line from a main gallery on the block.

Magically my oil problems went away when I used the atp turbo restrictor at the turbo.... that everyone told me I didn't need. :teehee:

Perhaps they mean its "built in" to the banjo fittings.

While I've not seen a HKS turbo kit new out of the box, I would suspect the additional restrictors would be used for those applications where people are using a high volume pump such as the tomei or HKS pumps with the oil pressures dialed up to 100PSI or more. In those situations an additional restrictor would be needed. There is no one size fits all applications.

I can say from experience that the HKS turbo's work fine with the standard oil plumbing and restrictors provided the oil pressures are kept at the factory levels of not more than 7-8kg/cm. Im using GTRS's with factory restrictors, tomei pump(no additional shims) and 20w50 oil with no issues in my car.

Back when I used to listen to what people told me... I had heard that statement many times before as well.

I beleived it too, until I had first hand experience with oil in the intake and exhaust because the 3/4" oil return couldn't copy with 75psi oil pressure. Then I was advised to replace the turbo for a new one, only to continue having the problem. Nobody ever asked how the turbo was getting its oil supply, which was a -4 braided line from a main gallery on the block.

Are you talking single or 2860, gt sereies etc twins?

Perhaps they mean its "built in" to the banjo fittings.

While I've not seen a HKS turbo kit new out of the box, I would suspect the additional restrictors would be used for those applications where people are using a high volume pump such as the tomei or HKS pumps with the oil pressures dialed up to 100PSI or more. In those situations an additional restrictor would be needed. There is no one size fits all applications.

I can say from experience that the HKS turbo's work fine with the standard oil plumbing and restrictors provided the oil pressures are kept at the factory levels of not more than 7-8kg/cm. Im using GTRS's with factory restrictors, tomei pump(no additional shims) and 20w50 oil with no issues in my car.

GCG made a note that its in the core of the 2860's

ive done installs of 2860's, hks gt series and gone from hks back to 2860's

one thing that is worth noting is not using the hks banjos when going from hks to 2860's

ive yet to here of problems with any set up regaurdless of oil pump.

I've seen oil overflow/restrictor problems with single and twin 2860's.

I believe it was BoostedR with his 2860-10 equipped 500kw RB3026 R33 GTR that was also having issues getting his restrictor sizes correct. I also read about someone with a white R34 GTR that saw a fair bit of track time that was having issues stemming from sustained high RPM/high oil pressure. I am not alone in having experienced this.

Like I said, one size doesn't fit all applications. A restrictor will limit flow for a given oil pressure, but once oil pressure exceeds a certain point the restrictors must be made smaller. Same principle as the head restrictors.

I am sure that even GCG would tell you to run a restrictor if your oil pressures are reaching 100psi+ at max RPM, because the out of the box GT2860-x series turbo's are designed as a bolt on upgrade where oil pressures are that of a STANDARD engine, not a modified one.

Hi all,

I'm about to throw a set of 2860's on my GTR and was wondering if anyone could fill me in on what size of oil restrictor they used? Mine are a second hand set and it looks like they don't come with in-built restrictors.

Should I use a restricted banjo bolt to the engine, or should I run a small restrictor in each turbo?? I know some peeps have been running in-line 0.035" restrictors..

Any input would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

2860's do/should come with restrictors built in. Just to make sure we're talking about the same turbo, they should have a badge on them with a part number. It should have 707160 on there, and then some sort of number after that.

e.g. if its 707160-7 or 707160-5 then this is what people are referring to when they talk about -7's and -5's...

The restrictor they come with factory is a 1.2mm. There is an option to fit a 0.8mm. I fitted these since I have only 1 oil drain on an RB26/30 and also run a Tomei oil Pump.

Below is what the restrictor's look like out of the turbo. You can see the small 0.8mm hole on the side of it (which is not visible when fitted in the turbo, at least not easily)

And the pic of it fitted to the turbo shows it's top. So have a look as see if you have this in there.

post-20408-0-42762600-1325240328_thumb.jpg

post-20408-0-50237300-1325240354_thumb.jpg

post-20408-0-12990700-1325240378_thumb.jpg

So what are the down sides if not having any restricters? I have recently put in a set of -5 turbos and now the car is blowing alot of smoke from the exhaust. I'm pretty sure its the lack of oil restricters???

If you don't restrict the pressure getting there it can fill the oils drains too fast and fill right up to the exit of the turbo - at this point the 'pressure' has to go somewhere and gets past the turbo seals (usually the exahaust side). Hence tons of smoke. So its important not only to have a restrictor, but also large and free flowing drains to the sump.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I'll save you the search.... all standard and vspec R32/r33/r34 gtr turbo's are ball bearing and ceramic turbine wheeled. N1 options are steel wheel, and ball bearing. All require restrictors.

GTRNUR, the R32 and R33 GTR turbos are 270 and 360deg plain/journal bearing setups depending on car model as per chart in link below and require higher oil pressure. I have stockies and N1's at home and they're definitely not BB ;-)

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tbroom/Turbos.htm

Well, at this stage I'll be going with a set of brand new GT2860 -5 or -7 turbos that should have inbuilt restrictors just like other BB turbos from Garrett etc. However, I'll be sure to confirm with the turbo mob that they're fitted with the right dia. restrictor.

2860's do/should come with restrictors built in. Just to make sure we're talking about the same turbo, they should have a badge on them with a part number. It should have 707160 on there, and then some sort of number after that.

e.g. if its 707160-7 or 707160-5 then this is what people are referring to when they talk about -7's and -5's...

The restrictor they come with factory is a 1.2mm. There is an option to fit a 0.8mm. I fitted these since I have only 1 oil drain on an RB26/30 and also run a Tomei oil Pump.

Below is what the restrictor's look like out of the turbo. You can see the small 0.8mm hole on the side of it (which is not visible when fitted in the turbo, at least not easily)

And the pic of it fitted to the turbo shows it's top. So have a look as see if you have this in there.

R32 TT, thanks for your info there mate! Appreciate the photos too and apologies for late reply!

correct me if im wrong but the 32 and 33gtr never had built in oil restrictors as their turbos were never BB from factory unlike the 34 gtr.

i used a 0.8mm restrictor on my banjo bolts for the oil line on the turbo whcih i got from kando dyanmic on ebay.

That would be correct. Also, only the R34's have those banjo bolts with the M engraved on them as they are restricted for the BB units that only R34's run. I was going to maybe use one of these if needed - but hopefully the GT2860s will already have the right restrictor in them etc etc..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could someone post some pictures of the factory Jack , tools, spare tire and how they were in a 1998 ER34 2 door skyline originally?
    • UPDATE: Hi all!  As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their proven reliability, predictable performance, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!  
    • I've previously seen people post up "dress up bolt kits" for RBs but don't remember seeing them specify the full contents. I can only really suggest you grab the verniers and start measuring, and keep in mind the cam cover and timing cover bolts are both quite specific with a wider unthreaded section where the bushes sit, that will make it hard to get aftermarket replacements which tend to be all thread (set screws) or for longer bolts a flat section with a shorter threaded section at the end
    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
×
×
  • Create New...