Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 GTR Driveline Issues

Scotsman

By Scotsman,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

clarkey Proficient

clarkey

Posted
Posted
Alan,  Ive got the car at ICE at the moment getting them to look at it and see what they think.  I'll post back here with results.  Maybee it will help you.

Thanks mate. I'll keep wathching. When I first bought my car the hicas light was on and they said they would fix it. Well now I know how they fixxed it.

Alan

Scotsman Veteran

Scotsman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

YO880: Your thread was very handy to me. I removed the GRID for a month, but my problems still occured. I wired it back in myself and soldered all the connections in. It's definately in correctly. Yeah 50/50 is dodgey - The problems started when I set it to 50/50.

Alan: I'll post later today when I ring ICE.

clarkey Proficient

clarkey

Posted
Posted
YO880: Your thread was very handy to me.  I removed the GRID for a month, but my problems still occured.  I wired it back in myself and soldered all the connections in.  It's definately in correctly.  Yeah 50/50 is dodgey - The problems started when I set it to 50/50.

Alan: I'll post later today when I ring ICE.

Any news Chris?

Scotsman Veteran

Scotsman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok, Seems that some of my problems are caused by my tire sizes. I knew that the tyres had to be the same size front and rear, but my importer assured me that this was ok with the rim and tyre combination he sold me. (Bastard)

ICE put same profile tyres on front and back which has stopped my movement in the rear when I take corners hard. The HICAS light is still on, so they are inverstigating furthur.

My AIR BAG light and ABS light haven't come on for about two weeks after I found a dodgey earth in the engine bay. Thanks heaps to who ever posted that Idea.

Will post more when ICE get back to me.

clarkey Proficient

clarkey

Posted
Posted
Ok,  Seems that some of my problems are caused by my tire sizes.  I knew that the tyres had to be the same size front and rear, but my importer assured me that this was ok with the rim and tyre combination he sold me. (Bastard)

ICE put same profile tyres on front and back which has stopped my movement in the rear when I take corners hard.  The HICAS light is still on, so they are inverstigating furthur.

My AIR BAG light and ABS light haven't come on for about two weeks after I found a dodgey earth in the engine bay.  Thanks heaps to who ever posted that Idea.

Will post more when ICE get back to me.

Any further news Chris.

Alan

Scotsman Veteran

Scotsman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sorta, Managed to stop the rear end moving around, with different rim / tyre combo. But still dunno why HICAS light is always on. I'm contacting other service people to see if anyone has the electronic device that plugs into the comupter and tells you exactly whats wrong with your baby. I have the car back from ICE now thou. They had too much work on to look furthur into it.

Will keep you in mind when I solve this problem.... if ever....

  • 2 months later...
Scotsman Veteran

Scotsman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update. If anyone ever gets the Airbag and ABS lights coming on and their battery is slowly looking chage and releasing acid into the air giving a choking smell from the boot. You might just have the same prblem as I did.

Hook up a volt meter to your battery and you will see that the battery is being overcharged when these lights come on. Hence you have a faulty voltage regulator and need to get your altinator reconditioned. Mine cost $200 for fully reco.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      Cleaning my wheels 😍

      By PranK · Posted

      A little follow up here on the ceramic coating.  We've had storms galore here and I've done a few ks, enough to gross them up  Consensus is that they didn't get as dirty as usual, the coating definitely repelled a little of the dirt and I think they kinda snowball. They get a little dirty and then they get dirty faster which makes sense. Cleaning them regularly would allow them to protect better.  Cleaning was a breeze. I tried first to just hose them off which, unsurprisingly, did nothing. But, making the wheels wet and then just wiping them over with a used but clean microfibre cloth was all that was required. I didn't need any cleaner at all, just water and a cloth. The wheels look amazing again.
    • PranK
      My BMW 335i

      By PranK · Posted

      Gave her a nice wash today and took extra time to clean off the tree sap and tar and crap. We have a usable garage now so she'll stay cleaner longer. Took a few snaps in some nice light afterwards.   
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, solid mount Z1 diff brace is in, pretty straightforward, it picks up 3 diff hat bolts and ties them to 2 support bolts on the subframe. Pretty sure someone else on here said they had reduced axle tramp with this but mine was already pretty good for smooth wheelspin, and still is....will see you this goes over time and whether I end up with a broken rear diff hat
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Ah yes, but the part in my hand was actually painted and fitted by me! I knew any front lip was likely to be sacrificial but I've had to fix it twice already... by the time I buy a fibreglass fixing kit, sort out sandpaper blocks, buy some fibreglass filler, body bog, spend the time and effort for a 'Greg' result... a new one being $290 seems like it's the better way to go and spray that with bedliner/raptor coat and we're all pretty again.. Would have preferred it last more than a month though. Them's the breaks I suppose.
    • MBS206
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I find it funny that the USA is finding out all this really really weird stuff, and people from the USA are coming here treating it like gospel, yet, all the info on solving those issues is here on these forums for the last 15 odd years... Also, I know how much heat it takes to ignite the hood lining of an R33 skyline. I worked it out myself... It also took a LOT of time, and heat for it to do it... Big single, and I needed to drive the car, so retarded the timing off to "protect it". Yeah, that was a bad move for cruising on a freeway with only 15 degrees of timing on it. That was a lesson I learned around 2009. So that's over 15 odd years ago. Aligning water and oil, that's identical for any turbo engine, it's not Japanese specific. If a shop doesn't know how to make sure the core is rotated the right way, then they shouldn't be touching any turbo engine. That's not a matter of "We haven't had Skylines for that long here"...
×
×
  • Create New...