Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guy. I've just rebuilt my rb26 and not sure what turbo to go with. It's still a 2.6 litre, forged pistons/ rods, stock cams,

Over Sized valves. Wanting about 300 to 400 kw's.

The car is still only a street car so I don't want a heap of lag. Wanting a ball bearing turbo.

Any info/ dyno sheets with what you have done about what I want to do would be great thanks Stephen.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/386806-rb26/
Share on other sites

That information is going to be literally impossible to find. Someone should make a sticky thread and put RB26 dyno results and mods list inside it. That way everyone could read about this sort of stuff and make educated decisions

:rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/386806-rb26/#findComment-6169249
Share on other sites

That information is going to be literally impossible to find. Someone should make a sticky thread and put RB26 dyno results and mods list inside it. That way everyone could read about this sort of stuff and make educated decisions

What a good idea!

Then someone should start a definitive guide to building a 300kw GTR thread and maybe even a 400kw thread!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/386806-rb26/#findComment-6169284
Share on other sites

Thread closed. Believe it or not, but since SAU started more than 7 years ago, this topic has been discussed before.

Please use the search function in future. It may be found here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&search_in=forums

While we understand that it can be frustrating to have your thread closed - Please consider that other members may feel it to be disrespectful and selfish of you to post a simple question, without using the search feature to review the wealth of information provided by said members over the years.

If you still feel that this action is unjust, then please PM me and we can discuss it further.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/386806-rb26/#findComment-6169297
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
    • New rear lights, filler panel sprayed, cleaned and back together    before, during, after shots 😍
×
×
  • Create New...