Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

18 years of age. Loss of license twice. $4500 worth of wheels. Remote locking etc.

$6202 a year plus $2800 for the excuses plus another $1000 excuses for the wheels.

No idea on 3rd party. Unless your parents are paying for the insurance, don’t buy a GTR.

*edit spelling*

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38681-gt-r-insurance/#findComment-783178
Share on other sites

im assuming you will be on your p plates will make the car too powerful under the power to weight rule. most insurance policies will charge you tons to get it (if you ever can) but they will have a clause to say if you are driving this car illegally according to state road laws then you cannot make a claim. ie: cos you are violating the power to wieght rule you can't claim and you won't have any insurance if you stack despite you actually paying a yearly figure.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38681-gt-r-insurance/#findComment-783183
Share on other sites

im assuming you will be on your p plates will make the car too powerful under the power to weight rule. most insurance policies will charge you tons to get it (if you ever can) but they will have a clause to say if you are driving this car illegally according to state road laws then you cannot make a claim. ie: cos you are violating the power to wieght rule you can't claim and you won't have any insurance if you stack despite you actually paying a yearly figure.

:werd:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38681-gt-r-insurance/#findComment-783340
Share on other sites

There could be a slim few who would insure you. I say Just Cars and Suncorp. But they don't tell you directly they don't want your business. They'll just give you a nice $10k per year to let you know your not wanted.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38681-gt-r-insurance/#findComment-783919
Share on other sites

I got my GTSt when I was 19, nearly killing myself within 5 minutes of owning it was a big wake up call for me.

Powerful turbo cars with drivers with very little or no experience is a bad idea - a GTR at 17 is a VERY bad idea.

Not saying every under 20 driver is a bad driver, but everyone does something stupid when they are that age, and the fact is a car like a turbo Skyline things happen before you realise - and sometimes its to late

I live in a semi-rural area, with lots of hilly roads. On the way into work I drive past 5 fatal crash sites within 2 minutes of my house, all drivers under 20, in newish fast cars

If you do manage to get a GTR or anything even half fast, advance driver course is a minimum, and also try and keep passengers out of the car

becasue at 17, in a GTR, the chances of a big mis-hap are immense

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38681-gt-r-insurance/#findComment-784136
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

i own '90 RB30 Patrol with factory turbo upgrade (140Kw)... it behaves bit like VL Turbo when wet day all because it got no LSD it has factory diff-lock for offroading instead... GT-R runs on AWD.

I hope to use GT-R for club events or something like that it's not like i use it everday... i've seen some P platers driving ex cop VL BT1... they even get insured for 300+ Kw at rear wheels... in Vic! so your point being i'm stupid to get GT-R?

i know BCNR33 is heavier than BNR32 and BNR34 so it could be allowed as long i kept it stock?

Regards

McJeff

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38681-gt-r-insurance/#findComment-784308
Share on other sites

i own '90 RB30 Patrol with factory turbo upgrade (140Kw)... it behaves bit like VL Turbo when wet day all because it got no LSD it has factory diff-lock for offroading instead... GT-R runs on AWD.

Theyre hardly comparable even if they both are AWD. The skyline is strictly a RWD car which will put torque to the front wheels if you loose traction, or its sensors think it would be beneficial to do so.

*Every* GTR owner I have ever spoken to has scared the living shit out of themselves the first time they experiance ATTESSA (basically, the car sideways then suddenly grabbing and lurching forward). Id be confident in saying a GTR is a fairly unique car in its driving charecteristics, with almost nothing comparable to it when you push it to its limits (and believe me you will... youre young and youre not buying a GTR to put around in).

With a mindset like youve shown above "i own a '90 RB30 Patrol.... GT-R runs on AWD." I have one favour to ask... if you do get the car please keep away from me until you learn the basic principles that every car is different, and just because you have driven one AWD before doesnt mean you know how to *control* a GTR.

Theyre very unforgiving cars, and all it takes is one "watch this bro" moment and it will bite you in the ass.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38681-gt-r-insurance/#findComment-784397
Share on other sites

i think there should be power laws in all states..........keep p platers out of nice cars.  less mines datsuns.  less to pay for insurance.  less written off skylines......

GTR - 17 - bad idea

no offence but you seem to generalise every 17-20 year old as a mine datsun...it may shock you but not every "young" driver is stupid on the road..yes most are but not ALL are stupid some are responsible. If hes able to afford one and insurance and wants to do driver trainning courses let him... no one knows what his driving habbits is like.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38681-gt-r-insurance/#findComment-784532
Share on other sites

I don't know you, or your driving habbits.

but I don't think a Nissan patrol (4WD, tank land cruiser looking thing I'm assuming) is anything like a GTR, no comparrison. I am looking at getting a GTR at the end of the year and I am almost 22, me at 17 in a GTR, wouldn't have ended well.

I have had a quote from just cars with a 50% no claim on full comp, 6 point immobiliser alarm, near stock, 89 model GTR. garaged overnight, no claims or acco's on my history and a secure car park during the day.

They asked for the princely sum of, da da da da.... $4K a year.

stuff that. I'm 22 mate, with a good record, I would be too scared to ask how much even for third party. maybe you should just try a GTST first and get used to it, then move on later to the GTR.

cheers

mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38681-gt-r-insurance/#findComment-784577
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok, so first round of maintenance done. I didn't get much history with the car but I know it was well looked after. That isn't enough for me though, so ...  I had to do the oil filter housing gasket. It was leaking a lot, and also as part of that I did the anti-return valve and the VANOS oil line (from HEL).  But, then I got hit with the while-ya-in-there's. Did both accessory and A/C belts, tensioners and pulley. The accessory belt that came off had a huge hole in it, like somebody hung it up with a nail. The pulley and tensioners seem ok, so I'll keep those just in case. I did water pump and pump pulley. The water pump had a small bit of play so timing was good.  I also did fan clutch. I don't know how to test the old one but between the water pump and the fan clutch the car is running a little bit cooler (not much ~2 - 3 degrees maybe) so good result. Unfortunately the thermostat and housing didn't turn up in time so I'll shelve those. I have no concerns at all on the current ones.  Then I spent what seemed like 40 days and 40 nights bleeding the air from the cooling system. She also got new air filter, fuel filter and did a Mobil 1 change with oil filter. Hilariously, not an hour after telling my wife how proud I was of myself to be going slowly and meticulously and making sure everything was torqued and nothing missing I went and started it without the oil filter in. The car complained immediately of no pressure and after only a few seconds I turned it off and discovered a shit tonne of oil on the driveway. Sigh. I've driven it since and thankfully doesn't seem to be any problems. AND THEN during the test drive a ratchet extension fell into the battery area in the boot and JAMMED right next to the positive terminal and the car body. Like, just touching it made sparks and it was jammed in there. So, almost killed the engine and then almost burned the car to a crisp. Good start. This was the rails under the splash guards. So stoked, she's straight as and super clean. No rust anywhere. There was a heap of caked dirt that I removed but otherwise looked great. All 4 jacking points are perfect.   Next I want to service the gearbox. Sometimes it's a little reluctant to shift up and I'm hoping a fluid change will sort it. I also have 4 new rear subframe bushes. They're as big as a toddler. I'm renting a tool to help put them in. I can't wait for this because its a bit crashy back there at the moment.  
    • Remember when those donkeys kept using freedom units and smashed that satellite to bits on the moon? NASA has their brain switched on and uses the metric system.
    • Don't use "gasless MIG" (FCAW) you want to use proper MIG. FCAW burns a few hundred degrees hotter than MIG will for mild steel. It is a true ball ache for sheet metal. New MIG / TIG machines even have features like "Spot Weld" as well as "Automatic" settings. Plenty of people say for DIY home hobby, the auto machines are pretty good for 95% of welding. I personally, I'm a sucker for punishment and wanting to dial it in, and be able to adjust the machine. Mainly because I used to MIG weld for a living, and being able to tweak and tune things ever so slightly was my preference. Hence when I bought my ACDC TIG, it has all the adjustments for everything and no "easy" mode. Ha ha I have stick, MIG, "gaslessMIG" and ACDC TIG at home. Out of them, if you're doing mild steel sheet metal repair, and want to do mild steel exhausts, go MIG. If you're thinking you'll want to get into doing some aluminium stuff, or stainless steel, get an ACDC TIG with HF start. If you can, get one with a foot pedal too. My MIG machine is a UniMIG, and my Stick/TIG is CigWeld. If I were buying another machine, I'd buy another CIGWeld. Lots of people having issues with UniMIG, and them not wanting to cover warranty. Everything has to go back to UNIMig themselves. CIGWeld, I've had to use their warranty on my machine for a gas leak, they have repair centres everywhere, (contracted authorised repair centres). First repair place I used were hopeless, but the second place were amazing. Warranty process itself super easy, and second repair place was telling me CigWeld actually cover in their warranty, upto an hour of techs time to help you with your machine, and going through the settings and helping teach you the machine. UniMIG keep trying to get out of replacing motherboards on 12 month old machines.   TLDR, mild steel sheet welding, buy a MIG. my vote is CigWeld for brand.
    • I guess that's what happens when someone can't convert metric to freedom units to machine something. 😛
    • I've watched some vids and the technique seems to be to butt the sheets up to one another and use MIG to spot weld and slowly fill in the spots until its eventually all sealed. No runs as you would normally do, as there's too much heat generated that way. Yeah my stick welds are terrible these days because its been so long since i've done any of it. I expect to be spending many hours practicing
×
×
  • Create New...