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Ok so after some dramas, got it installed. At first the solenoid was setup wrong, and had some wiring issues... Still not 100% happy with the wiring, but it should be ok. And also some hassles with the boost gauge line (still want to check and see if another spot that wanted to attach it is a good or bad choice or not too...

But so at first when the solenoid was wrong, there was no boost limiting, but i had aimed to start low, so worked it out as soon as went above stock boost. Now that have the solenoid right, it boosts at stock levels. I then set each of the 6 memory slots with duty cycles 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60 (min is 10 max is 90, and read boost shouldnt increase until bout 20), yet at all 6 settings, i was still only getting stock boost. I have tested the solenoid worked, from both the solenoid end and the units wiring loom. Maybe i still have something setup wrong?

Advice, info, or ability to have a look at it all with me?

Cheers

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Hopefully someone here has set this up before, or at least knows how to...unfortunately I've only ever dealt with a bleed valve which is straight forward, otherwise my current boost control is with the ViPEC controlling the stock solenoid, which isn't even set up to do anything....so I'm no help :(

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Yeh hey Verms, may be good if you could take a bit of a look with me. Where bouts are you?

Be good to see if i have all the things hooked up to the right places under the hood and all...

This is the other response i put to a similar thread i put in the general section of the forum. I also put it here to see if someone could take a look over it with me. Cheers.

you do realize there is 2 settings that you have to adjust, duty and gain, from memory the first setting controls the boost level and the second controls how fast the controller lets it get there, the higher the second setting the more chance of spiking.

Yes know the settings, was told to set the duty with the gain on 0 then roll it up til it spikes then take it back 2-3 steps. However i have also tried with more duty, and decent level of gain. And nothing.

The solenoid appears to work as tested it with power at the solenoid and even did a blow pressure test to see that it changes ports. I also power tested it from the unit ends socket. And it clicks over still. I am pretty positive i have the pipes on the right ports, that the stock solenoid had already been removed from the car and that it is using the right lines from the manifold to the actuator.

The unit seems to be powered right as i can set it up, use the scramble button (to change through memories) and use it as a boost gauge (it seems to read 0.8psi higher than the good quality manual one i have still got installed also.

I spoke to Ray a little, but he seems a little more reluctant to help as i have a second hand unit that i was doing the install of rather than an autoelectrician or garage. I feel it is all installed right, but some one checking it over for me may be good as i may have done something simple wrong....

This is what Ray last told me "try cranking the duty up to 90 and if the boost doesn't rise hold power on the solenoid (whilst disconnected from the unit) and SLOWLY and CAREFULLY roll power on to see if the boost goes up. If not you'll have a mech fault", so next week will get a mate at work to help me make up a switch where can slowly wind in power into the solenoid from the unit end wire harness and see if that works so i know if the unit is not controlling the solenoid or if the solenoid just is not functioning.....

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Ok, my mate who does a lot of work on circuits and electrical items opened it up and we did a bunch of tests with the unit and car and he believes a transistor is blown as only 0.26v goes out to the solenoid... which is why that was.not even enough to trigger a test light.

Aside from that the unit is functioning, it just isn't sending enough power ta make the solenoid work (works as a gauge and the negative signal pulses then cuts when the unit is turned on, or air is blown in to the boost pipe, but it only triggers a 0.26v power from the unit).

Edited by J'son
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For your car (RB25det) GT3076 Turbo with supporting kit internally gated, includes Nistune, piping, AFM, Bosch 750 Injectors, Blitz dual SBC and controller :thumbsup:

I don't think the R34 ECU will work with the R33 RB25DET engine (correct if wrong)....also if the injectors were to suit the RB25DET NEO they'll be top feed, whereas R33 RB25DET is side feed.

If the ECU works, all you'd need is an appropriate top-feed fuel rail....which even after buying would still make this package a stupidly good deal.

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Bit lost now lol.

What is the turbo and how much you want for it, it is bolt on and what can it handle to run?

I prob need better fuel injectors soon up, and a programable ect, since the mines one i have is limited....

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I didn't know there was so much different. :blink: But then I've never owned a 33.

Praise the son of rajab :worship:

:P

Some of us aren't as fortunate and have to settle with 32s or autos. It's ok, you'll live. cheers.gif

Bit lost now lol.

What is the turbo and how much you want for it, it is bolt on and what can it handle to run?

I prob need better fuel injectors soon up, and a programable ect, since the mines one i have is limited....

The turbo is a Garrett GT3076r, internally gated. I'm not sure on the housing sizes, though I think the rear will likely be 0.82 and front isn't really relevant for the power. On around 18-20psi this turbo should make about 300rwkw. Turbo would be capable of somewhere around 350rwkw if you were pushing it hard on E85.

You will definitely need an upgraded ECU and injectors for almost any reasonable power gains. Standard injectors run out of flow around the 230rwkw mark. For an R33's RB25DET, you will need to use side-feed injectors to avoid having to replace the fuel rail with an aftermarket item.

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