Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey =)

I keep hearing people say get your car tuned to unlock its potential, but I'm unsure of what's involved in a tune up, as opposed to a service.

What is actually involved in tuning up a non turbo R34? Is it worth doing on a non turbo? I think it might involve ECU mods and tightening bolts maybe?

I'm also looking for a good place to get the tune up done, My family has been to ultra tune. To avoid the defamation rules, I won't say anything, but I do not wish to go there.

Any help and advice would be appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/387020-r34-tune-up/
Share on other sites

Generally it does mean the ECU side of things. When designing/producing a car, there are certain standards/restrictions that need to be adheard to. This could be carbon emissions, reliability requirements or even fuel consumption.

When a car is tuned, the tuner alters the settings to specifically cater for the exact car and circumstances by changing things like fuel maps ect to gain the power that was de-tuned out of the engine oringally for the reasons above mentioned.

You can't go to any garage to have your ECU tuned. It would have to be a place with a dyno and specialist knowledge/equipment.

It is not cheap and the gains to be had by tuning what I'd assume is a largely stock N/A skyline are definitely not worth it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/387020-r34-tune-up/#findComment-6171930
Share on other sites

What about a stock turbo 34?? Would it be worth it then? Also do they jst tune ur ecu or u need a new one/computer??

Also my 34 has been converted to manual since owning it, would a tune be also beneficial do to it being tuned for an auto ?? Sorry for the dumb questions but gotta learn some how

If it's stock it will be roughly the same as mad said, maybe a little more.

It's when you start upgrading things like your cooling or fuel systems you can start playing around, as you can run things more towards their capacity.

If your car is completely stock, for the price of a nistune ($1000) you'd be best getting a FMIC and a boost controller and putting the boost up to 12psi. You will see a larger increase from stock then a tune alone.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/387020-r34-tune-up/#findComment-6173092
Share on other sites

What about a stock turbo 34?? Would it be worth it then? Also do they jst tune ur ecu or u need a new one/computer??

up to maybe 20kw on a r34 gt-t from a good tune if you are running a front mount, full exhaust and higher boost. if the car is dead stock then the gains would be much less. as was said, you will get more gains from doing those mods than just the tune. and on a r34 gt-t you can have a nistune installed in the stock ecu.

Also my 34 has been converted to manual since owning it, would a tune be also beneficial do to it being tuned for an auto ?? Sorry for the dumb questions but gotta learn some how

if it is still running the auto ecu then probably. it partly depends on how they did the wiring when they did the gearbox conversion. the autos are designed to only be able to be started in neutral or park. i'm pretty sure they send a signal to the ecu, which controls this. most people who put manual boxes in just trick the ecu into thinking it is in neutral or park all the time, so the car will start whenever needed. the downside to this is that the ecu has different mapping for park/neutral to when it's in gear. manual gearboxes have a switch in them which also tells the ecu when it's in gear so that it changes the mapping, but unlike the autos you can still start the car with it in gear.

long story short, if it's still running the auto ecu then i'd start by looking at getting a manual ecu for it and making sure that the gearbox switch is working properly. (a consult cable and progrum such as datascan can tell you this)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/387020-r34-tune-up/#findComment-6173837
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

up to maybe 20kw on a r34 gt-t from a good tune if you are running a front mount, full exhaust and higher boost. if the car is dead stock then the gains would be much less. as was said, you will get more gains from doing those mods than just the tune. and on a r34 gt-t you can have a nistune installed in the stock ecu.

if it is still running the auto ecu then probably. it partly depends on how they did the wiring when they did the gearbox conversion. the autos are designed to only be able to be started in neutral or park. i'm pretty sure they send a signal to the ecu, which controls this. most people who put manual boxes in just trick the ecu into thinking it is in neutral or park all the time, so the car will start whenever needed. the downside to this is that the ecu has different mapping for park/neutral to when it's in gear. manual gearboxes have a switch in them which also tells the ecu when it's in gear so that it changes the mapping, but unlike the autos you can still start the car with it in gear.

long story short, if it's still running the auto ecu then i'd start by looking at getting a manual ecu for it and making sure that the gearbox switch is working properly. (a consult cable and progrum such as datascan can tell you this)

Hi Mad,

So if i had mine converted to manual (R34Gtt, FMIC, aftermarket Radiator, Turbo Back exhuast) can i just plug and play the manual ECU? Or there is wirings I need to swap around or cut or rewire??

If need to cut and rewire or whatever do you know which wires are they on the harness or pin number to which?? Cos I'm experiencing Rev cut around 6k or 6.5k mark. Is this to do ith the ECU??

Thanks

Daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/387020-r34-tune-up/#findComment-6201087
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...