Oil Cooler With Thermostat And Relocation Kit

[blk94r33]

Hi all,

Looking to install an oil cooler kit on my car due to up-coming plans with the car, and it's general dis-like for hot weather.

As it's %90 street car, I don't want to fit an oil cooler without a thermostat for obvious reasons, also I don't see how a kit without one is useful for most applications as there's no control over the cooling.

Since RB oil filters are a pain to get to, and I'm changing mine every 5,000kms, I also want a relocation kit.

I also don't want to spend +$600-$700, as I "think" i could get the HEL kit, and a universal Cooling Pro relocator kit for this price, but am not keen on the idea of multiple sandwich plates and seals (or is this actually a good option?):

http://www.skylinesa...-kit-group-buy/

http://justjap.com/s...&cat=299&page=1

What is available, that is direct bolt on to an RB engine, and includes all of the above?

Most of the Greddy/Grex etc kits are $1,100+ ie:

http://www.nengun.co...location-nissan

Some of the permacool kits have everything, but I don't trust rubber hose and clamps with ~100 degree oil at ~100psi:

http://www.skylinesa...er-suit-rbsrca/

Next is to buy the Greddy sandwich plate, plus a universal kit, and have an extra -10 line made up to hook it all together, or custom make a kit:

http://justjap.com/s...&cat=299&page=1

http://greddy.net.au...&SubCategory=88 (part 12401114)

http://www.frsport.c...at_p_12814.html

Problem being, I don't know how they fit to the engine, i. if they "spin on" would it clear everything around it? And the lines come out at 90 degrees to the block and I doubt they'd route properly around everything without problems?

Opinions/experiences/more options please.

EDIT: I now see that the Greddy relocator and thermostat is mounted externally which then passes oil to the cooler, with one sandwich plate to the block feeding it.

Edited January 2, 2012 by blk94r33

[abr33]

how cold does it get where you are?

Do you run the factory oil heater? (on filter unit)

Over cooling oil isnt too fatal depending on type of oil and how its being driven.

[Tony de Wonderful]

No need to relocate IMHO. Not worth it to have more hose and fittings which can potentially blow and lunch your engine in seconds.

[boostn0199]

Well if you want a good priced, quality oil cooler with a thermostat get the driftworks one then that leaves you with just a relocation plate and another line made which I think would be your cheapest option even say you got the driftworks oil cooler with thermostat which I think from memory is 2-300 then you can buy the jjr relocation kit you have linked for another 200 and you have all the plates and lines you need with one block plate leftover.

[bubba]

Go to a Mazda wrecker and pick up an OEM cooler with a built in thermostat, then see below link for a $60 relocation kit without hoses..

Even with some hoses made up I don't see the whole setup costing more than $200ish..

"MAX CNC REMOTE OIL FILTER ADAPTER with 2 1/8 NPT fittings for EVDM oil pressure and temp senders $60.00

CNC machined aluminum fitttings include adapters for SR, KA and a wide variety of engines. Requires two -10 hoses from Earl's etc. to remotely plumb the filter, or three -10 lines to run an oil cooler in the loop as well. Depending on the length of hose you purchase separately, you can mount the filter anywhere to make oil changes a snap, in addition to increasing capacity. Two sensor ports (with plugs) are included for oil temp and pressure guages. For use with larger filters like FRAM PH7317 or equivalent diameter filter."

http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/page.php?4

[boostn0199]

Go to a Mazda wrecker and pick up an OEM cooler with a built in thermostat, then see below link for a $60 relocation kit without hoses..

Even with some hoses made up I don't see the whole setup costing more than $200ish..

"MAX CNC REMOTE OIL FILTER ADAPTER with 2 1/8 NPT fittings for EVDM oil pressure and temp senders $60.00

CNC machined aluminum fitttings include adapters for SR, KA and a wide variety of engines. Requires two -10 hoses from Earl's etc. to remotely plumb the filter, or three -10 lines to run an oil cooler in the loop as well. Depending on the length of hose you purchase separately, you can mount the filter anywhere to make oil changes a snap, in addition to increasing capacity. Two sensor ports (with plugs) are included for oil temp and pressure guages. For use with larger filters like FRAM PH7317 or equivalent diameter filter."

http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/page.php?4

Thats a good idea, but I thought the mazda tranny coolers had barb fittings for hoses?

[XRATED]

I use the greddy plate... works really well.

http://greddy.net.au/products/display/?Category=oil&SubCategory=88

I just make up custom lines and use a good quality cooler... mocal, greddy, aeroquip, b&m etc. Oh and pushlock fittings and lines are alot cheaper than stainless braid and re-usable fittings.

Hoses are easy to make yourself.

Cheers

Justin

[blk94r33]

how cold does it get where you are?

Do you run the factory oil heater? (on filter unit)

Over cooling oil isnt too fatal depending on type of oil and how its being driven.

On the coast, so car's being daily driven in temps anywhere from 2 to 42 degrees. I don't have the stock oil cooler as it's a DE+T. I sort of need one with a thermostat as I do 6-8 10 minute trips a day, but much longer on weekends etc. so it goes from stone cold to hot quite often. %90 of my work is daily driving, but want to get into a few track days and local drags in the near future. (I know it's probably not necessary for drags).

I run a valvoline semi-synthetic btw.

I use the greddy plate... works really well.

http://greddy.net.au...&SubCategory=88

I just make up custom lines and use a good quality cooler... mocal, greddy, aeroquip, b&m etc. Oh and pushlock fittings and lines are alot cheaper than stainless braid and re-usable fittings.

Hoses are easy to make yourself.

Cheers

Justin

That's the exact plate i'm looking at and the style i'm leaning towards. The plate can be delivered for $150-$250, decent oil cooler and relocation kits are everywhere for ~$350-$400, and get an extra line made up for maybe $100? Lucky everything's -10 fittings. So for ~$600 could get the lot.....

Do you make your own lines or get enzed etc to make them for you?

Who would be the best to go to for a ready made line with -10 female fittings?

Edited January 2, 2012 by blk94r33

[blk94r33]

Go to a Mazda wrecker and pick up an OEM cooler with a built in thermostat, then see below link for a $60 relocation kit without hoses..

Even with some hoses made up I don't see the whole setup costing more than $200ish..

"MAX CNC REMOTE OIL FILTER ADAPTER with 2 1/8 NPT fittings for EVDM oil pressure and temp senders $60.00

CNC machined aluminum fitttings include adapters for SR, KA and a wide variety of engines. Requires two -10 hoses from Earl's etc. to remotely plumb the filter, or three -10 lines to run an oil cooler in the loop as well. Depending on the length of hose you purchase separately, you can mount the filter anywhere to make oil changes a snap, in addition to increasing capacity. Two sensor ports (with plugs) are included for oil temp and pressure guages. For use with larger filters like FRAM PH7317 or equivalent diameter filter."

http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/page.php?4

Brilliant! Again would keep within the tightest budget, and the convenience of D.I.Y lines to put everything exactly where you want it.

What model mazda/s had a factory oil cooler with thermostats? I'd imagine all the RX series?

Even with the greddy plate, $100 cooler and lines it'd be >$500.....

[chuckie]

Thats a good idea, but I thought the mazda tranny coolers had barb fittings for hoses?

FD coolers they are.

Mazda use them for BOTH engine oil & Trans.

you just undo fitting & replace them with what you want size wise.

i run 2 on my Stagea 1 engine oil & 1 Trans.

run a good size fitting so you get Flow to cooler.

i did both coolers lines Sandwich plate & fitting for under $300,fitting cost most,

Upload of photos is not working so sorry for not being able to add Photos of what i have done,

i shall try again as they may help few out.

Cheers Chuckie.

[blk94r33]

FD coolers they are.

Mazda use them for BOTH engine oil & Trans.

you just undo fitting & replace them with what you want size wise.

i run 2 on my Stagea 1 engine oil & 1 Trans.

run a good size fitting so you get Flow to cooler.

i did both coolers lines Sandwich plate & fitting for under $300,fitting cost most,

Upload of photos is not working so sorry for not being able to add Photos of what i have done,

i shall try again as they may help few out.

Cheers Chuckie.

Who made up your lines mate?

Or did you get pro-flow/speed-flow etc. stuff and make them up yourself?

http://pfefittings.com/product_info.php?cPath=5_6&products_id=5118

[chuckie]

Guys heres few of FD cooler.

Cheers Chuckie.

[XRATED]

That's the exact plate i'm looking at and the style i'm leaning towards. The plate can be delivered for $150-$250, decent oil cooler and relocation kits are everywhere for ~$350-$400, and get an extra line made up for maybe $100? Lucky everything's -10 fittings. So for ~$600 could get the lot.....

Do you make your own lines or get enzed etc to make them for you?

Who would be the best to go to for a ready made line with -10 female fittings?

You won't get a decent oil cooler with quality fittings and quality sanwich plate for $350... stay away from the cheap kits.. oil is your engines life blood, don't cheap out on any of the oil gear!

Buy the plate, buy some quality pushlock fittings and hose, then buy a quality oil cooler. It's very easy to make your own pushlock lines... or at very least cut the lines to the correct length (once you have mocked up placment) and take the lines/fittings to a hose joint and have them put the lines together for you.

J.

[XRATED]

There's no way I'd ever use a used oil cooler.

[chuckie]

Hi,

just did them myself no braided bs,

just a good hose & some good fitting is all you need,

Cheers Chuckie.

[chuckie]

There's no way I'd ever use a used oil cooler.

Whys that

I flushed mine out checked for leaks & spent few hours running a Cable tie in to straighten fins,

But I guess your a RICH GUY & like named Goods

well they work for me & thats sweet ,

Good luck in your quest to get a good Oil cooler setup .

Cheers Chuckie.

[Risking]

Your a fool.........

I recently blew my engine up and had the oil cooler plumbed up pre filter. It died a long slow death as I drove it with a bearing knock for several hours.

Bearing material, engine crud, gouged crankshaft etc etc has been pumped into my oil cooler core as it chuged along.

I've now pulled that engine out and being a smart person not reused the cooler on my new engine.

Being a slack arse I sold the oil cooler to you. Being a tight arse you thought you'd flush it and wack it onto your car.

Ask ANY one who has ever cut open a "flushed" oil cooler if it was clean and they will tell you "Not even close"

Now you've spent 10-20k on a built engine and my old crid that you thought was flushed slowly but surely becomes dislodged during high pressure and flow oil traveling through the cooler. Guess where it's headed.....

Maybe into your filter. Maybe the filter will be torn by the bearning material alowing more material to get through the filter......

By by engine because you were too tight to buy a cheap $100 cooler ($3-400 for a quality one)

Smart man used a new oil cooler not a second hand one....

Whys that

I flushed mine out checked for leaks & spent few hours running a Cable tie in to straighten fins,

But I guess your a RICH GUY & like named Goods

well they work for me & thats sweet ,

Good luck in your quest to get a good Oil cooler setup .

Cheers Chuckie.

[blk94r33]

I wasn't talking about using second hand stuff in particular, there's loads of kits in the for sale section for >$300, personally i'd rather go for new with warranty and spend a bit extra, just not the 4 figures Greddy wants.

Majority of the kits I can find on SAU go for $400-$600. Some with warranty, so I don't see a real problem with the "cheaper" kits, especially on a car that will be used mostly for the street:

Vulture Motorsport:

http://www.skylinesa...relocation-kit/

Risking:

http://www.skylinesa..._1#entry6125302

Just Jap: (includes 12 month warranty)

http://www.skylinesa...-latest-design/

H.E.L. (PM-R33)

http://www.skylinesa...-kit-group-buy/

At this stage i'm trying to find a reliable way to get a genuine Greddy thermostatic plate. This with a basic cooler/relocator kit that all come with -10 male fittings, and an extra line to join it together.

If I can do it for the same money, i'll buy the plates and core seperately, and make up all 4 lines to get everything I want, plus not having extra line everywhere. Speed-flow/pro-flow connectors (and even the basic rubber hose) is rated to 1000psi burst pressure and 150 degrees operating temp.....

Edited January 2, 2012 by blk94r33

[abr33]

I was strongly advised by a very reputable rb builder to not relocate filter, sure cooler, but dont touch relocation kits. More shit to go wrong, more leaks to have, and the factory position is fine anyway, use cardboard so you dont make a mess. problem solved. Each to their own but

[blk94r33]

I was strongly advised by a very reputable rb builder to not relocate filter, sure cooler, but dont touch relocation kits. More shit to go wrong, more leaks to have, and the factory position is fine anyway, use cardboard so you dont make a mess. problem solved. Each to their own but

By the looks of it, i'm looking at an extra $300 or more for the convenience of not having to crawl under the car to change the filter. Worked it out to $690 to make a kit using the Greddy plate, a universal cooler/relocator kit and making an extra line.

Might be better off just spending ~$450 and getting the HEL kit...