Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thats what I will probly put on my car when I finally finish the POS off.

http://www.summitrac...rts/EAR-501ERL/

Im using this thermostat. Seems to be pretty good! I've had no issues with it so far. I bought mine from Autosport here in Adelaide.

  • Replies 81
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

warranty on a oil cooler

lol

almost as funny as the dude who said a remote mount is bad

What the warranty's actually worth is a different story, I meant if a local business is willing to back a product, then they must have some faith in it, compared to a faceless ebay company. Word of mouth goes along way, if everyone you talked through said "item X by brand Y" is crap, you wouldn't buy it.....

if you buy the china stuff it works but just use lots of thread tape.

the pipes on the pre- made chin are way to long as well

go the earls one as they dont leak and just buy a length of the hose and cut it down to the correct size makes fitting so much easier

has anyone had any issues with fitting a 15row core in a gtst or gtt with fmic and washer bottle (applies to gtt owners only) still mounted?

I'd imagine you could get it mounted in the passenger side since it won't be blocking the intercooler with a front mount?

I'd imagine you could get it mounted in the passenger side since it won't be blocking the intercooler with a front mount?

no, it will not be blocking it, i meant to fit it in driver side arch. it is stupid idea to mount it in the passenger side as you need to pay more $$$ for longer lines etc.

just want to see if anyone had fitting issues with a fmic cooler kit fitted and stock washer bottle or if they made it work somehow.

no, it will not be blocking it, i meant to fit it in driver side arch. it is stupid idea to mount it in the passenger side as you need to pay more $$ for longer lines etc.

just want to see if anyone had fitting issues with a fmic cooler kit fitted and stock washer bottle or if they made it work somehow.

But if your concerned it won't fit or will have impaired air flow in the drivers side arch, and don't want to mount it out front, how is it a "stupid" idea? 50cm longer lines with fittings shouldn't be more than $30-$40 each?

has anyone had any issues with fitting a 15row core in a gtst or gtt with fmic and washer bottle (applies to gtt owners only) still mounted?

I Had no problem fitting my 19 row had it in the drivers side corner first now have it in front of the radiator still have washer bottle.

post-50426-0-81384800-1325665840_thumb.jpg

post-50426-0-40999200-1325665874_thumb.jpg

post-50426-0-60572700-1325665903_thumb.jpg

I Had no problem fitting my 19 row had it in the drivers side corner first now have it in front of the radiator still have washer bottle.

post-50426-0-81384800-1325665840_thumb.jpg

post-50426-0-40999200-1325665874_thumb.jpg

post-50426-0-60572700-1325665903_thumb.jpg

Why did you move it from the wheel arch to in between the FMIC and radiator?

I would imagine warmer air obviously wouldnt give u maximun heat exchange as cooler uninterupted air but would surely still aid oil temps but does seem counter productive buying a nice cooler kit and not giving it the best chance of doing its job properly :/

Why did you move it from the wheel arch to in between the FMIC and radiator?

Reason was because last one got cleaned up by another car when tandem drifting, the wheel arch is too open to colisions so i opted to put it somewhere safer.

Yeah lol lost about 3 l last time in sec on top of that ended my day as didnt have a fitting to loop the lines and bypass cooler, one of the things cable ties cant quick fix lol.

boostn0199, thanks for the info but my enquiry does not apply to you as you have a return flow cooler and your washer bottle is in your engine bay where as the R34 GTT it is in the driver side arch, im particularly interested in ppl with a normal hybrid style fmic.

Can anyone comment on oil temps after they have installed a nice big radiator but no oil cooler? Surely having stable water temps never hitting 90 would give the factory oil cooler a better chance at doing its job.

Unbeknown to many people, but that factory oil 'cooler' is actually a heater. These cars are designed for Japan, where it gets VERY cold and that little devil is just to warm the oil to operating temps... Its best to disconnect it if your oils getting hot. And a thermostatic cooler if you have anything over stock output :-)

Many parts of Japan are not that cold and get quite warm....Very similar to parts of Victoria. Actually Tokyo and Osaka's summer is much warmer than Melbourne. I don't see how disconnecting would help at all. As soon as the oil temp was above the water temp then the factory oil warmer/cooler would start to cool the oil.

Edited by Bond

Thats true, but water gets pretty hot.. up to 100 under some conditions. Oil begins degrading over 95.. I stated what its intended for, not saying it would'nt sometimes act as a cooler

I know what you mean, I have a GTT and an oil cooler to fit soon. Washer bottle and power steering cooler sits really low down in that area. I wanted to put it in the drivers side wheel arch, but I'm now thinking between the FMIC and radiator might just be easier. My only concern is that more heat is going to end up going through the radiator, but I doubt it would be much when you are travelling at speed.

boostn0199, thanks for the info but my enquiry does not apply to you as you have a return flow cooler and your washer bottle is in your engine bay where as the R34 GTT it is in the driver side arch, im particularly interested in ppl with a normal hybrid style fmic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If it's magnetic what is stopping you from using a magnet on a thin wire from fishing it out?
    • Those 2 solenoids in that assembly I mention, are the PWM solenoids for torque converter lock-up clutch & EPC (line pressure control) ~ when most folks hear of 'solenoid failure', the tendency is to think electrical failure...but fact of the matter is, especially wrt the EPC solenoid (which is moving/running all the time), you can have an electrically 'good' solenoid, that's absolutely broken/worn out mechanically inside...ie; valve plunger return spring rubbing against spring retainer plate, lowering preload pressure.. ...and the solenoid armature extension limit spring wafer with bad wear/broken off petals... ...and if there's ever been any metal flying about, damage to the valve plunger end itself... ...the stuff one never really sees, unless you go the whole 10yards trying to answer the question "why is my line pressure screwy, but TCU isn't flagging any EPC solenoid fault?"...and carefully dissect the solenoid. Worst (and most probable) scenario is when the plate spring petals break off, they get held by the magnetic flux, get mashed up by the armature into little bits, which end up in the space between the armature & shading core bore, and things get stuck or randomly jam up, and your line pressure goes flat and doesn't change...and the TCU never sees it, as it doesn't actively monitor LP... ..then it gets into insidious land, if you end up with lower than expected line pressure...lets say high clutch..and the lower pressure causes it to slip ~ when I say 'slip', think say 2000rpm on the drive plates, and 1800rpm on the driven plates, because the slip is making them under-rotate by 200rpm ; you get all the usual nasties like heat and band/clutch wear, but even if it's only 20rpm slip the same thing happens...and... you'll hardly ever pick this up driving the thing with the torque converter active as it effectively masks these sorts of slippages that are line pressure related ...(the newer TCUs can detect clutch slip rate)...just  FYI as it were...  
    • There's nothing that some paddle pop sticks and extra cable ties can't fix.
    • Hey guys, so Golebys has good prices on Bosch injectors, and also sell an adaptor to go from 1/2 length injector to standard with the Nissan 10.5mm top seal.  Does anyone know if that adaptor is to suit the 14mm or 11mm injector tops?  And re. The bottom seal, to suit my standard RB20 intake, would I be right in saying I can just slip the 14mm square section O ring over the bottom of the new injector and done? Thanks in advance guy, Cheers, Rowdy
    • F my life. I was changing the oil on my R32 GTR today as usual and ran into a bit of a snag. I drained the oil out and was getting ready to finish the job by tightening the drain plug, however The stupid magnetic oil drain plug snapped in half, right at the magnet part. After about an hour of trying to remove it, I used a drill bit, which unfortunately pushed the magnet all the way into the pan, and just leaving the hollow threaded part of the bolt remaining. I was able to remove the hollow portion of the bolt from the oil pan with some pliers but the magnet is still in there.  So, the question is, should I drop the oil pan to get the magnet piece out, or is it okay to leave it in there? I really dont want to drop the pan, i'm about to go nuts.  PSA: Do NOT buy a BLOX magnetic drain plug. This is the one i had.    https://bloxracing.com/products/magnetic-oil-drain-plug-m12x1-25mm?variant=37131252859052&country=US&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw47i_BhBTEiwAaJfPpgti1D2JwO7TDuMpXuqeQPCuIQSAfwxpWQH5rF9MD7sm5SCZDWLR_RoC_YoQAvD_BwE    
×
×
  • Create New...