Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I know this is beating a dead horse but I've been looking for some definitive information on which plugs to use on my engine.

There's allot of people using different heat ranges, Iridium, etc but i'd just like some good solid "this is what you should use".

Now i haven't checked whats in there at the moment (however whatever is in there, may not be perfect so i thought i'd ask).

The motor has a FMIC, Splitfire Coil Packs and is running a controller between 8 (lo) and 10 (hi) psi.

From reading, the "BCPR7ES – 8 or 11" seems to be what people say to use with the Split Fires (since it states to use one colder heat range?)

Do I use a -8 or -11 gaping?

And i'd assume Iridium are a waste of time, since it's not that hard to to get to the plugs to change standard coppers ones?

Thanks guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/387174-r34-rb25det-neo-spark-plugs/
Share on other sites

The reason to use coppers over iridiums has more to do with a lot of people having trouble with the iridiums.

At 8 - 10 psi boost with the standard turbo you should have no reason to gap your plugs down to 0.8mm, especially seeing as you have some nice strong coils in there. So buy or leave the plugs gapped at 1.1mm. The wider the plug gap the better, unless it is misbehaving (missing, breaking down at high boost, etc), in which case then you gap them down. But the same rule applies - the bigger the gap the better, so don't automatically gap anything down to 0.8 before trying 1.0, then 0.9.

So the one step colder heat range is correct for using Splitfire coil packs?

I wouldn't know about that being a general rule. Again, because yours is pretty much standard, you're not likely to notice much difference from changing plug heat range anyway. When I put Splitfires in my RB20 I didn't change the plugs, and it has just continued to run fine (well, it actually runs better than with the old coils both because the old ones had shit themselves so it really wouldn't run for long at all at the end...but also the Splitfires are just stronger than the old coils were when they were nearly but not quite dead and so you'd bloody well want it to run a bit better!).

I think if you're leaning on an engine (big turbo and boost) and have been using weak old coils and gave been running plugs one or two ranges hotter than normal to help, then you probably don't need to keep running the hot plugs after fixing the coil problem, more so than saying you can use a colder heat range plug just because you're changing to Splitfires.

cheers

BCPR6ES-11 if your coils are good (sounds like it). if it misses gap them down .1mm at a time until it stops. 7s are pointless in a stock motor and will only foul up slightly faster for no gain.

Oh dear, another spark plug thread lol.

As above, i'd have to say the BCPR6ES gapped to .9 - 1.1mm. You wont know exactly what gap will work for you, but i would think with only 10psi boost and split fires, you should be able to use them at 1.1mm with no problems.

Fairly stock motor, so keep the 6 heat range plug.

Ideally you'd use Iridiums, as they last a long long time. By i, myself are one of those people that have had nothing but issues with them.

  • 3 weeks later...

Ok installed the BCPR6E-11's into the motor the other day. The motor had the BCPR6E's in it, so .8 gap. Car seems to run good with the 1.1mm gap and Splitfire coils. No idea if it's just placebo though haha. The plugs that came out were pretty good still.

A tuner told me yesterday that I should not be using the BCPR6E-11's because 1) the gap is too big, 2) the heat range is too hot for the current Summer climate and 3) They are a "crap plug". He recommended BKR7E's, and gapping them down to 0.7mm-0.8mm, does that sound correct? He said using 1.1mm gap will cause the spark to "blow out" at my boost setting (10 psi).

Confusing!

^this, your tuner sounds like a muppet. you want to run the biggest gap you can without getting any spark blow out, so if its not missing under load 1.1 is fine, most standard cars with old coilpacks will blow out at 1.1 with higher than standard boost, but that doesnt mean you should run a smaller gap on all cars regardless of condition.

6's are fine, they're still 1 heat range colder than standard, 7's will simply not last as long for no gain whatsoever in your case.

the only difference between the bcp and bk is the v groove tip and depth, fairly minor differences and both will work fine.

  • 12 years later...
On 1/4/2012 at 12:13 PM, GTSBoy said:

The reason to use coppers over iridiums has more to do with a lot of people having trouble with the iridiums.

At 8 - 10 psi boost with the standard turbo you should have no reason to gap your plugs down to 0.8mm, especially seeing as you have some nice strong coils in there. So buy or leave the plugs gapped at 1.1mm. The wider the plug gap the better, unless it is misbehaving (missing, breaking down at high boost, etc), in which case then you gap them down. But the same rule applies - the bigger the gap the better, so don't automatically gap anything down to 0.8 before trying 1.0, then 0.9.

The BCPR6ES come gapped at 0.9mm, and I have spitfires and is lightly modified. I assume there's no need to modify that gap as per what you wrote above? Mine's also maxes out at 10 psi.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...