Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

want to make up a heatsheild, just wondering what the best material is?

Has anyone used the heat sheild that supershit autos sells? It looks good, but would it just be the same as using some alloy plating?

Just going to copy the design of the stock sheild unless there are better ideas out there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/387307-best-material-for-turbo-heat-sheild/
Share on other sites

Mate best way to make a heat shield I've found . and looks absoloutely mint

Although ur missus might not thinks so

Roughly measure your turbine housing

Take a walk into your kitchen grab out ur stainless Steel saucepans

Find the one closest to the size u need try and not let the Misso see u hahahahah

Take it to ur shed an and cut it in half

( obviously using the side that doesn't have the handle on it ;-) )

Mark ur bolt holes drill to suit

And ur away :-)

hahaha that is f**king awesome, how well does the kitchen pot work?

Does it have to be stainless steel or do the "non-stick" teflon ones work too?

Might try find a clothes dryer too then.

Ideas like those two are great

acl heat sheild is what you want, your local repco can order it in

http://www.aclperformance.com.au/prod_heatshield.htm

that's the stuff i saw at supercheap, so it actually works and isn't just a cheap supershit item? Well at $50 a sheet i wouldn't call it cheap.

It looks pretty pro anyway, have you used it and is it effective?

The wonky shape was intentional, the far left was taken out further to block any heat excaping out the gap and to give protection to the ABS wiring.

And its better than the beanie which cost $250 and didnt last.

middle pic is what is left of the beanie..

I have also used the ACL heatshield which took me about an hour to do.. I found an old pic of when i first finished it, has since been refined and dodgey piping removed :P

post-51757-0-03069300-1326015813_thumb.jpg

middle pic is what is left of the beanie..

I have also used the ACL heatshield which took me about an hour to do.. I found an old pic of when i first finished it, has since been refined and dodgey piping removed :P

What inlet manifold is that David not a common Type we see ,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I removed the IACV, cleaned it and reinstalled.  I found a video on youtube that helped with the whole process, the guy then said the idle needed to be set, so the process was to get the vehicle up to operating temperature, unplug the TPS, set the idle screw in the IACV so the RPMs were around 600, then plug the TPS back in.  After I reinstalled the IACV, the car started (because, it was a cold start), once it warmed up, the car died, I adjusted the idle screw to see if that helped anything, it did not, I had to wait about 3-5 minutes, then the car would start back up. Only to shortly cut out, and only crank.  I loosened the TPS to see if adjusting that would do anything, and when I would rotate the sensor clockwise, there was a humming noise, but it would go away when I got the sensor in the horizontal position.  It only made the hum noise with the key on.  What do you guys think? 20250414_172604.mp4
    • Quick update.  The engine grounding strap was replaced, the engine is now happily running.  Tested the voltage drop before replacing the strap, was about 1.2ish volts down between engine to battery, chassis to battery. With the new grounding strap, pretty much no voltage drop at all. 
    • I was chatting with an ex SAU person who is involved in chooning euros now. He was saying the factory cars like Audi VW etc have something like 2000 tables that the ECU uses for getting everything "just right". Compare that back to any aftermarket ECU, and you'd be hard pressed to surpass 50 lookup tables. Even the Ford Barra engine has a few hundred lookup tables to run it (and they're still working some tables out too!)
    • Grab a temp probe, and probe each exhaust inlet runner with it sitting idling. Each one should be pretty darn close to the same temp. If you've got some reading higher or lower than the others, it's likely either air flow isn't equal, or your injectors aren't equal to each other.   The other things to check, is from the wiring changes that were made, were any earth's or grounds moved/changed.   Lastly, for the strut brace issue. It's not perfect, but can you get away with slipping a washer or two under the strut brace to raise it, and it still clean the bonnet? If you can, work out the height you need, that the motor can't torque up into, and get a spacer made for each side.
×
×
  • Create New...