Help! -Loss Of Power And Engine Shut Down After Boosting Hard

[rondofj]

Hope its not the idle screw, cleaned the aac few weeks ago n set the screw too

[GTSBoy]

Compare the decel fuel cut set points in your tune against the ones in the standard tune. If it has been fiddled with by the tuner, it might have been fiddled with poorly, or to cover some other problem that has since been fixed or otherwise changed. But my recommendation to you is to stop stuffing around asking questions like this on a forum and take the bloody thing to a decent mechanic/tuner who can test it out with some diagnostic gear attached and see what is actually happening. Instead of keeping going like this day after day you could have it fixed in an hour or less.

[rondofj]

GTSBoy you could be validating a good suggestion about the decel cut points, maybe thats the problem, but why now all of a sudden after fitting my dump and O2 sensor?

As for taking it to a decent mech/ tuner, it would be at Unigroup already... If i had my licence, or a fultime driver....

[Hanaldo]

So instead your just out test-driving it?? Get it towed mate, not having a license should be an even bigger reason to get it to a tuner.

[GTSBoy]

GTSBoy you could be validating a good suggestion about the decel cut points, maybe thats the problem, but why now all of a sudden after fitting my dump and O2 sensor?

I'd say it's just as likely to be coincidental as being caused by anything you did. But a decent dump will affect the overall breathing of the engine and so might have tipped your engine over the edge of some failure that was waiting to happen.

Anyway, I agree with Hanaldo. Put it on a truck and get it fixed, or put it up on blocks and don't fix it until you get your license back.

[rondofj]

Lol at putting it up on blocks, but putting it on a truck and off to tuners is simply not smart financial sense as i dont need the car fixed asap, being suspended makes me all the more determined to bite tooth and nail, hunt for solutions and keep my car 'perfectly prepared' and waiting for me when i get it back. Not only does it keep me bUsy with an interesting hobby of tinkering with cars, but its taught me a huge amount of stuff and made me more n more confident at fixing little bits n pieces along the way while also keeping dosh in my pocket than into someonelse's, theres every bit of chance to get ripped off anywhere in this industry, such as Hanaldo's $300 intake...or was it more? Wink;

[rondofj]

Thanks to SAU and some really top blokes in here, owe you fellas bigtime..

[rondofj]

There seem to be a lot of members of sau with autos and mostly atmo aftermarket bovs who seem to encounter this exact problem of stalling upon rapid release of the throttle. Example stopping at lights or slowing down after WOT. Mine is a manual with stock plumb back bov, so tryin to figure out if thats the cause.

[BRUNSKIGTST]

i have had problems with staling at lights and feels like loss of power and when driveing on freeway bit of a jerk like car went off and on, changed my coils improved it allot but still had bit of a jerk, at the end it was the fuel filter that was blocked to the shit house that literlly made my car stop completely and jerk while driving on freeway, this is on my 33. on my 32 i had problem staling at lights also and ended up being breather hose on my fuel tank every time i turn corner or some thing air went in system and shut off my car so replace that got power back and no more stalling, so with your problem could be a fuel issue and ignition. maybe fuel pump on way out or fuel filter blocked with gunk, i suggest changing fuel filter first because it really cheap and easy and get fuel pump tested, maybe pump not pumping enough fuel or just not working properly, hope this help and is the issue, and check and tighten all the clamps maybe a leak some where but doesnt sound like that to me. good luck i check in.

[Hanaldo]

Lol at putting it up on blocks, but putting it on a truck and off to tuners is simply not smart financial sense as i dont need the car fixed asap, being suspended makes me all the more determined to bite tooth and nail, hunt for solutions and keep my car 'perfectly prepared' and waiting for me when i get it back. Not only does it keep me bUsy with an interesting hobby of tinkering with cars, but its taught me a huge amount of stuff and made me more n more confident at fixing little bits n pieces along the way while also keeping dosh in my pocket than into someonelse's, theres every bit of chance to get ripped off anywhere in this industry, such as Hanaldo's $300 intake...or was it more? Wink;

Ha, that's cute man. Carry on then, you've clearly got it sorted.

[BRUNSKIGTST]

Ha, that's cute man. Carry on then, you've clearly got it sorted.

well there is nothin wrong with trying to fix it your self and save some dosh for other mods, thats why we got this forum to help people who like fix and doing there own cars and also vise verser. Not every one got allot of money,

[Hanaldo]

He doesn't have a license. If he did I would be encouraging him. But imagine if you got cleaned up by a dude with no license messing around with his car.

[BRUNSKIGTST]

He doesn't have a license. If he did I would be encouraging him. But imagine if you got cleaned up by a dude with no license messing around with his car.

fair enough he shouldnt be driving the car at all agree with you there , he should get one that has licience to test it to see if problem does not exists and he can continue fixing it,

and you should not be driving it with out a licence or else no one would be helping you out, get your dad to see if problem gone or a friend with a licence to drive it.

[rondofj]

Definitely should not be driving it, but did a couple of 5 minute runs, otherwise I get my friend to take it out when he is available.. Thanks for the suggestions on what could be potentially wrong with the car.

[BRUNSKIGTST]

i notive you have a T boost controll, i herd that they meant to stuff up and spike boost up and down and stuff up completely i suggest getting a electronic boost controller can get one cheap of justjap.com search them up on google or visit there forum threads here.

[BRUNSKIGTST]

i notive you have a T boost controll, i herd that they meant to stuff up and spike boost up and down and stuff up completely i suggest getting a electronic boost controller can get one cheap of justjap.com search them up on google or visit there forum threads here.

sorry for double post dunno what happen :S

Edited January 8, 2012 by BRUNSKIGTST

[rondofj]

Thanks, my boost holds nicely though - goes to 10-12psi very quickly and stays there, only drops to 10 from 12psi. Not unstable at all.. It is a funny issue, this engine shutting off - I have ruled the O2 sensor out because it does it even with it unplugged, battery is definitely ruled out, fuel filter wouldn't be more than 10000kms old, more like 5000km, but will change that I think.

I am thinking its either the deceleration cut-out points in the tune or the stock bov leaking? A lot of people have this problem in all sorts of cars - and the culprit seems to be these things or the O2 sensor or even the IACV and TPS

[GTSBoy]

It's not the stock BOV leaking. For one thing, it wouldn't matter if it was leaking......

[GTSBoy]

And for another thing.....the bloody thing is supposed to open when you lift your foot off the throttle.

[Hanaldo]

It could be the bov causing a lot of reverberation? But I'm guessing it's the stock intake pipe, and it's a recently occurring issue, so I doubt it's that. I wouldn't expect it to have much to do with the bov.

My money is still on the O2 sensor. Disconnecting it does not necessarily mean it CAN'T be the O2 sensor, because the ECU is still expecting it's feedback. You would have to edit the tune to set the O2 feedback temp very high to effectively rule it out. But then again, I would expect it to be causing more issues at idle/cruise if there was a problem with it, not only at decel. Are there any other issues, apart from the cutting out at high rpm? Does it idle nicely, cruise nicely, etc?

This is why I suggest you take it to a tuner. You might be getting a DTC which could be checked through consult. So if you insist on doing it yourself, at least get a consult cable and download ECUtalk or a similar program and check your codes, you might save a lot of time.

*EDIT* Just read your O2 sensor is not done up tightly. Speaking from experience, you need to do that up tightly to get it to seal properly. I cross threaded my stock O2 by putting it in when the exhaust was hot, and ended up with a big exhaust leak. I suggest you fix things like that before continuing to diagnose, it's such an easy fix and might be the issue all together.

Edited January 9, 2012 by Hanaldo