Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

This thread is interesting to me as I fill with optimax as there is a shell 10 doors down from my house, however I do occasionally use the bp stuff if I am shopping or whatever as there is no shell there.

To be honest my car needs a damn good tune anyway but I definately get better economy from the optimax.

A couple of you guys mentioned optimax as being 92 ron fuel to begin with and then modified somehow to acheive the 98 RON whereas bp and Mobil are refined at 98 RON from the beginning.

Can one of you please supply me or post here if you wish your reference for this information. Because if the Shell issue is a concrete fact I wont touch it again.

is there any problem with mixing fuel?

when my gf takes my car out she insists on filling it with caltex vortex fuel, but i will always only put BP ultimate in.

i did find that my car's exhaust would pop while accelerating at high revs and lately it hasnt been doing that. im not sure if its the better fuel or maybe just the cooler weather

Guest two.06l
is there any advantages in running BP ultimate and octane booster? will it increase the octane rating or not, im thinking about only using it for when i take my car to the drags

get the most out of your octane booster by getting it your car tuned with it in your tank

Problem with that though is without the octane booster the engine will ping at high revs. You want to tune the car with what you will be using. Like I said my car was tuned with Mobile and like most guys who have done this find their cars either run like shit with Shell or in some cases ping like mine :D

Hi Guys, I think you need to check out your local supplies. Just because it says "Shell" on the servo doesn't mean that all the petrol sold there came from a Shell refinery. In Qld, WA and SA, Shell don't have 98 octane enabled refineries, so my understanding is they buy it from BP. Being Kwinana in WA and Bulwer Island in Qld. In NSW and Vic it is the reverse, the refinery at Clyde produces something like 25% of Australia's total petrol and the Geelong refinery produces about 50% of Victoria's petrol.

So my understanding is;

In Qld, WA and SA all Optimax and Ultimate is refined by BP

In NSW and Vic all Optimax and Ultimate is refined by Shell

I don't know about Caltex/Ampol, but you can find out by calling the local refinery and asking.

Bottom line, I don't think you can say that Optimax is this and Ultimate is that, it really depends on from where it is sourced.

guess it's all part of the marketing con.... u're buying BP being sure you get diffrent fuel from Shell, in fact BP & Shell has an arrangement to have all BP fuel done by Shell...

so what's the difference.... just go buy any fuel, it's like tax, you can't afford not to pay for it and still getting the same juice.

Hi Bez, Taree hmmm, I would say your Optimax would most likely come from the Shell refinery at Clyde, so it is "real" Shell petrol. Any further north and you might get "Optimax" from the BP refinery at Bulwer Island, so it wouldn't be real "Shell" petrol. I have never had a problem with Optimax from Clyde. Since Clyde is the source of the V8Supercar control fuel it can obviously produce "good" Optimax.

I would say, ignore the comments from guys in other states that get their Optimax from different refineries, some of which aren't even Shell.

Shell doesn't guarantee the 98 octane do they like bp does?? I was under the impression there was only one refinary for optimax and that was down south (clyde). I didn't think WA had optimax and i was told by a shell operator in qld when they ran out that it was because of the refinary down south not being able to supply enough for everyone. That refinary is the sole optimax supplier to my beliefs. We've got 2 or 3 oil refinaries in brisbane. One is bp and the other was caltex and i think there maybe a 3rd which is jointly owned by neumanns and morland energy. A lot of the refinaries are getting their fuel from overseas at the moment.

As far as I know, its a fact that BP Ultimate (who use the best Western Shelf Crude Oil) refine their fuel to 98 octane, where optimax is like putting a bottle of octane booster in your tank.

I have it on good authority.

I don't use the crap.

BASS OUT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Alright guys, I've got good odds the motor survives due to a majority of spare parts. Who's taking bets on clutch, who's on transmission, and who's go diff? Happy to also take bets on if it still overheats in traffic or not 😛     Car looks amazing by the way. I've never been a fan of R34 rears, so really, I don't think any body kit etc solves that for myself, but the front end looks amazing!
    • As an ex-skyline owner Going off how these things are now "modern classics", I would keep the twins and just "refresh" bits that are required for reliable power and have a car you can take out for a cruise whenever you get the itch As a idiot who cannot leave things alone Going deep into the "rabbit hole" is a easy thing to do, as previously mentioned, once you start it becomes a slippery slope, wirh lots of supporting mods, and possibly rebuilds, and unless you have a bottomless pit of funds, the car can spend most of its life sitting in the garage,  broken, waiting for parts, or building more funds For a classic like a R32 GTR Basically, a reliable OEM+ refresh, that isn't a broken garage queen, is alot better than a car that you build, then break, then fix, then break again And it isn't just the engine you need to worry about, these beasties are getting on in age, and all parts are getting, and have got, expensive, the days of picking up cheap replacement engines and other driveline parts are well and truly over The funds not spent on going a single with quality parts, and with all the other other bits required to make it happen, could be spent on refreshing alot of other parts A wise man once said "If you cannot afford 2 GTR's, you cannot afford 1", I also believe he said this about 20 years ago when you could pick up a clean R32 GTR up for around $20k My advice for a R32 GTR (the one and only true Godzilla in my mind) is to think holistically about the whole car, the body, the power train, the suspension, the brakes, and the driveline SAU is a wealth of knowledge with decades of Skyline experience,  from stock, to OEM+, to modified to varying degrees, to full on or weekend or dedicated racecars, as well as full on money pits that rarely leave their garage Treat the old girl nice and give her what she deserves, you are a lucky man to own such a classic car  
    • For that price you could buy the hypergear turbo (big fan as I run one) and the Haltech ECU..
    • +1 for the Elite 2500. Get some new knock sensors while you are at it (pretty cheap), look up the TAARKS Nissan knock sensor kit. You may also want to get new coils (R35gtr) while your at it (assuming your on stock ones), as they are a liability. Mine started right up and idled fine on the base map. Also go MAP over MAF, as said above, Haltech make this super simple right out the box. Another fanboy of DBW here, Outsider Garage from your neck of the woods make some nice conversion gear for the R33 (that’s where I got some of my gear from).
    • Nvm ignore this I read it wrong
×
×
  • Create New...