Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

This thread is interesting to me as I fill with optimax as there is a shell 10 doors down from my house, however I do occasionally use the bp stuff if I am shopping or whatever as there is no shell there.

To be honest my car needs a damn good tune anyway but I definately get better economy from the optimax.

A couple of you guys mentioned optimax as being 92 ron fuel to begin with and then modified somehow to acheive the 98 RON whereas bp and Mobil are refined at 98 RON from the beginning.

Can one of you please supply me or post here if you wish your reference for this information. Because if the Shell issue is a concrete fact I wont touch it again.

is there any problem with mixing fuel?

when my gf takes my car out she insists on filling it with caltex vortex fuel, but i will always only put BP ultimate in.

i did find that my car's exhaust would pop while accelerating at high revs and lately it hasnt been doing that. im not sure if its the better fuel or maybe just the cooler weather

Guest two.06l
is there any advantages in running BP ultimate and octane booster? will it increase the octane rating or not, im thinking about only using it for when i take my car to the drags

get the most out of your octane booster by getting it your car tuned with it in your tank

Problem with that though is without the octane booster the engine will ping at high revs. You want to tune the car with what you will be using. Like I said my car was tuned with Mobile and like most guys who have done this find their cars either run like shit with Shell or in some cases ping like mine :D

Hi Guys, I think you need to check out your local supplies. Just because it says "Shell" on the servo doesn't mean that all the petrol sold there came from a Shell refinery. In Qld, WA and SA, Shell don't have 98 octane enabled refineries, so my understanding is they buy it from BP. Being Kwinana in WA and Bulwer Island in Qld. In NSW and Vic it is the reverse, the refinery at Clyde produces something like 25% of Australia's total petrol and the Geelong refinery produces about 50% of Victoria's petrol.

So my understanding is;

In Qld, WA and SA all Optimax and Ultimate is refined by BP

In NSW and Vic all Optimax and Ultimate is refined by Shell

I don't know about Caltex/Ampol, but you can find out by calling the local refinery and asking.

Bottom line, I don't think you can say that Optimax is this and Ultimate is that, it really depends on from where it is sourced.

guess it's all part of the marketing con.... u're buying BP being sure you get diffrent fuel from Shell, in fact BP & Shell has an arrangement to have all BP fuel done by Shell...

so what's the difference.... just go buy any fuel, it's like tax, you can't afford not to pay for it and still getting the same juice.

Hi Bez, Taree hmmm, I would say your Optimax would most likely come from the Shell refinery at Clyde, so it is "real" Shell petrol. Any further north and you might get "Optimax" from the BP refinery at Bulwer Island, so it wouldn't be real "Shell" petrol. I have never had a problem with Optimax from Clyde. Since Clyde is the source of the V8Supercar control fuel it can obviously produce "good" Optimax.

I would say, ignore the comments from guys in other states that get their Optimax from different refineries, some of which aren't even Shell.

Shell doesn't guarantee the 98 octane do they like bp does?? I was under the impression there was only one refinary for optimax and that was down south (clyde). I didn't think WA had optimax and i was told by a shell operator in qld when they ran out that it was because of the refinary down south not being able to supply enough for everyone. That refinary is the sole optimax supplier to my beliefs. We've got 2 or 3 oil refinaries in brisbane. One is bp and the other was caltex and i think there maybe a 3rd which is jointly owned by neumanns and morland energy. A lot of the refinaries are getting their fuel from overseas at the moment.

As far as I know, its a fact that BP Ultimate (who use the best Western Shelf Crude Oil) refine their fuel to 98 octane, where optimax is like putting a bottle of octane booster in your tank.

I have it on good authority.

I don't use the crap.

BASS OUT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...