Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all!

I'm new to SAU and was interested in some advice. I have a 34 sedan with GTT brakes and suspension fairly well sorted out. In the future I am planning an engine swap. What do people think of an Sr20 instead of rb25t. Why?

To save weight over the front end. To reduce overall weight. To give better power to weight ratio I am not interested in huge power, the car is a daily driver, of course I want more power than what I have.

I know they don't sound as good but I'm not to worried. As I drive on freeways a bit as well as windy roads I was thinking the s15 6 speed. I know its not strong but as I said I am not interested in big power just a nice balanced drive. Any advice is greatly appreciated thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just stick with the rb25. while the sr20 is a decent motor, it is lacking in torque compared to the rb25. the weight difference isn't that much when you look at power to weight ratios of the entire car. cost wise it's probably a lot cheaper to use the rb25, and i dare say a lot easier to do the conversion. using the 6 speed would also result in you having to change gears more often than the 5 speed, and when sitting on the highway the actual revs it sits on at the speed limit won't be that much different.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks mate! I appreciate your advice. In case you're wondering i was thinking that i would have much more power and tourque than what i currently have with a sr20. You made a good point about trying to keep the conversion simple though. Maybe I should stick with an rb. As for the gearbox I don't mind changing gears and because of the gearing on the car I find myself looking for 6 th often. I guess you can change the diff ratio but then I could miss acceleration. I am thinking of fuel economy too. I thought maybe a vq35 6 speed with the RB? Thanks again!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks mate! I appreciate your advice. In case you're wondering i was thinking that i would have much more power and tourque than what i currently have with a sr20. You made a good point about trying to keep the conversion simple though. Maybe I should stick with an rb. As for the gearbox I don't mind changing gears and because of the gearing on the car I find myself looking for 6 th often. I guess you can change the diff ratio but then I could miss acceleration. I am thinking of fuel economy too. I thought maybe a vq35 6 speed with the RB? Thanks again!

you seem to be a bit mis-understanding of the 6 speed gearboxes. they haven't simply taken a 5 speed box and added in a taller gear for 6th. what they have actually done is made every gear shorter than the 5 speed. you will find that 5th gear on the 6 speed box is a 1:1 ratio, which is the same as 4th on the 5 speed box, and 6th on the 6 speed box is only about 5% lower than 5th in the 5 speed box. so in reality, if you were at 2500rpm in 5th in the 5 speed, you would only drop down to 2375rpm in 6th in the 6 speed. (that is based off using the same diff ratio)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks I had heard the ratios in a 6 speed were lower. I am planning to change the diff anyway, so I could choose a lower ratio whilst I'm at it. Couldn't that work? Sorry to be a pain at this point I am just keen to improve the car as much as I can whilst I do the conversion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i could write another long post pointing out the negatives of using both the SR20 and the 6 speed, but i could be bothered. just stick a rb25det in there and be done with it. a sr20 with 6 speed and taller diff is going to be crap to drive. the r34 is heavier than the s15 so 6th gear isn't going to be that useful. the slightest hill and you'd probably have to either floor it, or drop back a gear.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
  • 5 months later...

Slip light is to let you know wheel slip has been detected and that traction control has kicked in to correct it.

When i changed to an aftermarket ECU the traction control stopped working all together, so i took the bulbs out for both TCS and Slip.

If you haven't changed your ECU, you may want to get a diagnostic done to find the fault code and hopefully get it cleared.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am impressed with all this level of adjustment. I didn't expect all this possibility
    • Correct.  In the case of the 500kw dyno plot I showed you the car actually runs two boost control solenoids for boost control and a 5psi wastegate spring.  It allows me to control how much boost pressure is applied to both sides of the wastegate valve at any point and fairly accurately control boost target as a result. I've tuned it so that it's able to target anywhere from 5psi to 25psi depending on what's needed.  The target tables I've set up in that car are Gear vs RPM, so every gear has potential for a different boost (and torque) curve.   First and second gear have quite low boost targets, third gear actually has different target boost all the way through the rpm range as it's a stock RB25 gearbox - the boost targets have been chosen to maintain a peak of 600nm (what the owner has set as the maximum torque he's happy with putting through the stock 3rd gear) but it carries that to the rev limiter.   The boost curve to achieve that is something of a ramp up, then hold, then ramp up again and the power curve looks more like a flat line haha.  
    • so you can decrease or increase the boost depending on the diet as you wish?     by acting on the wastegate?
    • That's torque and power, it's all from a single run.  The boost curve is "held back" from it's peak target in the 3500rpm to 5000rpm range from memory, so it ramps hard to something like 18psi then climbs more progressively to 23psi nearer 5000rpm.   It makes the torque (and power) ramp more "natural" and less hard on parts and traction, it doesn't feel artificially held back.   
    • Here's the torque curves from the car I ramped boost up later in the rpm to allow a slightly wider useful power curve - the power curve is a bit weird shaped also thanks to the TVIS (or whatever they call it with the 4EFTE in this Starlet) which changes the volume of the intake manifold throughout the rpm range, but you can see that the green power curve actually holds later on with the extra boost... but looks almost more like the kind of thing you'd expect from a cam or exhaust change
×
×
  • Create New...