Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all!

I'm new to SAU and was interested in some advice. I have a 34 sedan with GTT brakes and suspension fairly well sorted out. In the future I am planning an engine swap. What do people think of an Sr20 instead of rb25t. Why?

To save weight over the front end. To reduce overall weight. To give better power to weight ratio I am not interested in huge power, the car is a daily driver, of course I want more power than what I have.

I know they don't sound as good but I'm not to worried. As I drive on freeways a bit as well as windy roads I was thinking the s15 6 speed. I know its not strong but as I said I am not interested in big power just a nice balanced drive. Any advice is greatly appreciated thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/387547-r34-gt-engine-advice/
Share on other sites

just stick with the rb25. while the sr20 is a decent motor, it is lacking in torque compared to the rb25. the weight difference isn't that much when you look at power to weight ratios of the entire car. cost wise it's probably a lot cheaper to use the rb25, and i dare say a lot easier to do the conversion. using the 6 speed would also result in you having to change gears more often than the 5 speed, and when sitting on the highway the actual revs it sits on at the speed limit won't be that much different.

Thanks mate! I appreciate your advice. In case you're wondering i was thinking that i would have much more power and tourque than what i currently have with a sr20. You made a good point about trying to keep the conversion simple though. Maybe I should stick with an rb. As for the gearbox I don't mind changing gears and because of the gearing on the car I find myself looking for 6 th often. I guess you can change the diff ratio but then I could miss acceleration. I am thinking of fuel economy too. I thought maybe a vq35 6 speed with the RB? Thanks again!

Thanks mate! I appreciate your advice. In case you're wondering i was thinking that i would have much more power and tourque than what i currently have with a sr20. You made a good point about trying to keep the conversion simple though. Maybe I should stick with an rb. As for the gearbox I don't mind changing gears and because of the gearing on the car I find myself looking for 6 th often. I guess you can change the diff ratio but then I could miss acceleration. I am thinking of fuel economy too. I thought maybe a vq35 6 speed with the RB? Thanks again!

you seem to be a bit mis-understanding of the 6 speed gearboxes. they haven't simply taken a 5 speed box and added in a taller gear for 6th. what they have actually done is made every gear shorter than the 5 speed. you will find that 5th gear on the 6 speed box is a 1:1 ratio, which is the same as 4th on the 5 speed box, and 6th on the 6 speed box is only about 5% lower than 5th in the 5 speed box. so in reality, if you were at 2500rpm in 5th in the 5 speed, you would only drop down to 2375rpm in 6th in the 6 speed. (that is based off using the same diff ratio)

Thanks I had heard the ratios in a 6 speed were lower. I am planning to change the diff anyway, so I could choose a lower ratio whilst I'm at it. Couldn't that work? Sorry to be a pain at this point I am just keen to improve the car as much as I can whilst I do the conversion.

i could write another long post pointing out the negatives of using both the SR20 and the 6 speed, but i could be bothered. just stick a rb25det in there and be done with it. a sr20 with 6 speed and taller diff is going to be crap to drive. the r34 is heavier than the s15 so 6th gear isn't going to be that useful. the slightest hill and you'd probably have to either floor it, or drop back a gear.

  • 1 year later...
  • 5 months later...

Slip light is to let you know wheel slip has been detected and that traction control has kicked in to correct it.

When i changed to an aftermarket ECU the traction control stopped working all together, so i took the bulbs out for both TCS and Slip.

If you haven't changed your ECU, you may want to get a diagnostic done to find the fault code and hopefully get it cleared.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
    • It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks.   I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard.    The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.
×
×
  • Create New...