Rb30 Oil Drain Help Needed

[humz]

Hi guys having some issues with excessive oil shooting into the head and subsequently filling up the catch can and pissing all over the engine when it's under load. When backing off aftet load it also shoots out a large rich ( orange ) flame and a few seconds later massive amounts of smoke ( that isn't black )

I have stripped the head off and suspicions come true as no oil restriction was used and there is no oil return from the back of the head. I have sent the head off to have it checked for peace of mind and valve seals replaced if need be.

Heres the questions

- I will be fitting a spool fitting to the rear of the head and returning it to the sump, I will also be returning the catch can to the sump. T'ing into the turbo lines is out of the question so I was wondering if I would need to weld separate fittings on the sump for the can and head return or can i simply T them up into the sump via a single (or double ended) fitting taking into mind the head will return a lot more oil than the can (hopefully) will this differnce be problematic?

-also can the large flame and subsequent smoke be a direct result of this excess oil in the head which is making it's way past the seals when it is under load?

[KiwiRS4T]

Have you read the oil control thread?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/page__hl__sk+oil+control

I have concluded (as have others) that the so -called oil drain on the back of the head simply functions as a breather so I am not fitting one. I think the most important steps are:

1. Restrictors. I have hydraulic lifters and vct. I am fitting two 1.0mm restrictors (SK suggests one 1.0mm and blank the other but I am keeping two feeds as an insurance against a blockage).

2. Sump breather. I am drilling and tapping two fittings to the sump. One is for a breather which will go to the catch can. The other is for an oil return from the catch can only if it should be necessary. I hope it won't be but don't want to pull the engine out yet again.

If you are keen I would recommend drilling out the oil returns and relieving the larger ones. My mechanic is not keen to do this as it would involve completely stripping the engine head and block to get them properly clean and reckons 1 and 2 above will do the job.

[The Bogan]

I've had massive oil issues since my rebuild, even with head drains, sump return on the can, drilled out returns, 2 x 1mm and a 1mm on the VCT was to much flow, went to 1 x 1mm for the head and 1mm for the VCT which was fine at eastern creek by overflowed a bit at Wakie, now I'm at 0.8mm at the head and 0.8 at the VCT which at this stage hasn't been tested at the track.

The TOMEI pump was causing issues in mine as it was pumping 120 psi at around 6000 rpm, a regulator was installed to lower the flow down to about 90psi now.

It got to the stage where a external feed for the head was tapped in to supply the oil as taking the head off every time was a PITA timeline and cost wise to play with the restricters.

I'm using 10w 40 oil.

This has made my brain hurt bad over the last year.

[The Bogan]

The motor was even rebuilt again to see if the tolerances were within specs, they were fine, wish I went a dry sump from the get go now, or even a N1 oil pump, shifts are at 7200rpm so a N1 would have been fine.

All returns have separate fitting on the sump.

Motor is a hydraulic 25/30.

[KiwiRS4T]

You've got me worried now. I've got an N1 pump it runs at 100psi at 3000rpm and idles at 44psi. Not quite as much as your Tomei. I am currently limited to 6000 rpm - was planning to set limiter to 7000 and use 6500 as the change point. Maybe a stock RB25 pump would have been better! Engine is coming out next week so decision time!! (also RB30/25 with vct and hydraulic lifters).

[KiwiRS4T]

Hey Mark when you say head drains (plural) do you have the fitting at the back of the head running to the sump and do you have another one as well?

[The Bogan]

Yes mate, one is fitted to both sides of the head into the large rear galleries, the inlet side goes to the high pressure side/cold side of the sump (vent) and the other goes to the hot side (drain).

The cam covers have the standard vents to the can both with separate lines and the rear also has vents like the 26 covers with internal baffles that also have separate lines to the can.

The can is a 3ltr baffled job returning to the hot side of the sump via a 3/4 inch hose, the can has 1 x 3/4 inch and 1 x 1 inch filters to release any blow by pressure (which isn't a lot) and the sump is extended with a windage tray.

LOL.

BRAIN SORE NOW.

Hence why my brain is hurting.

[KiwiRS4T]

OK so now you have front 0.8mm, back blocked and vct 0.8mm? When are you next going to the track? Fingers crossed that this works!!!

[The Bogan]

As soon as the tune is checked, I fitted a bigger cooler and hard pipes.

[The Bogan]

OK so now you have front 0.8mm, back blocked and vct 0.8mm? When are you next going to the track? Fingers crossed that this works!!!

All restricters in the engine are blocked, a feed it tapped into the side of the head which picks up the oil galleries, hence why now it takes 5 minutes to swap out restricters.

Over engineering much.

[DCIEVE]

Hey Mark - do you have rb26 or 25 cam covers? I've seen a few people choose to run the 25 covers now.

[humz]

Thanks for whoring out my post guys lol

How bout we get back on track with some answers to the questions I posted (please) instead of raising more questions which need answers and more questions creating a domino effect where my domino is used like a bitch and has all the other pieces stacked up ontop of it..

Just sayin

[KiwiRS4T]

Well the first half of your question should be resolved...I don't believe stuff all oil will come from your head "drain" and I think it functions as a breather so you shouldn't drain your catch can into the same line. As I said I am getting two outlets drilled and threaded into the sump - one for a breather and one in case a drain for the catch can is necessary but I am hoping it won't be.

And yes filling the head with oil will result in oil getting past your seals and clouds of smoke biloowing out the back... the flames seem to be a stock RB feature and can be tamed if you have an aftermarket ecu and can tune the afrs so it doen't run so rich at WOT.

[KiwiRS4T]

Its getting late over here and brain is not functioning that well but further to my last post it would be great if you decided to determine definitely how much oil actually comes out of the drain at the back of the head once restrictors and sump breather have been done. A few people have threatened to replace the oil drain from the back of the head with a plastic pipe and stick a camera in there but there is a much more low tech solution - you could just put the end of the hose into a container instead of into the sump and measure what comes out. This assumes that you have done the restrictors and have a breather for the sump (if you didn't drill 2 holes then you could use the one you take the hose off as a breather). That would be a great service to RB kind.

Also thinking about the flames and smoke I guess even if your engine was tuned correctly things could get hot ehough to ignite oil fumes and actual oil if there was enough (too much) of it about!

[humz]

It's geting late??

It's 4.30 am here and I'm still reading the oil thread and other information and about to go crazy. Head is at machine shop waiting for the green light from me, I ordered the oil

Drain but realise I may not need it and will probably go for the sump vent set up... AHH f**k need to sleep, will respond to your post when i awaken. Thanks for your answers mate, much appreciated

[fletch rb30]

A good trick to see if you have too much pressure in your sump not allowing the oil to drain from the head is to pull the dip stick out completley when you have it on the dyno. OR, chuck one of those mini filters on the dip dtick tube and do a few laps of the track and check your catch can.

[bubba]

A good trick to see if you have too much pressure in your sump not allowing the oil to drain from the head is to pull the dip stick out completley when you have it on the dyno. OR, chuck one of those mini filters on the dip dtick tube and do a few laps of the track and check your catch can.

I actually vent my dipstick to the catch can, a cut down old dipstick tube fits in some 3/8 hose quite nicely

[fletch rb30]

haha awesome!

[G37Sam]

Man this oil restrictor business is no fun. Too much to read and endless opinions lol