Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol now now fellas

this was suppose to be 10k build... that 10k has already been spent and ill ive ended up with is 320kw and another broken box haha

ah well... it is what it is...

now the issue is what to do...

get another 33 box (which I can get for $500) + plus install and whack that in and drive like a pussy for the rest of my life

or fork out 4-5k for a OS/PPG gearset

cost vs benefit really

How many boxes will you do till you put a 'big box'

In? If you do 4, you're half way there and are still stuck with a standard box. You shouldn't be busting them with the power you have UNLESS you have no mechanical sympathy!

I say do it and do it properly. Costs less in the long run!

They can either work for or against you. At Huntley it really works. You just need a bigger engine to turn the cogs. *hint hint, nudge nudge* ;)

I got something in the pipe line.... hahaha a few more months mate

http://www.rhdjapan.com/os-giken-close-gear-kit-3-speed-nissan-rb26dett-input-shaft-50042

its 1st, 2nd and 3rd that cop the abuse so it would be perfect right?

thoughts?

Well that would be the same as mine as I decided to go for OEM 5th gear for highway.

That's about 3K? Try greenline.

What clutch?

That is often the cause of broken boxes.

I've got 360rwkw or so, and I can launch from 8000rpm with sticky tyres, smack second - no problems. Even flat changing 3rd-4th wasn't a problem... Run after run.

Anyone @ Drag Battle can verify :)

Not sure now.

I bought my 5 speed with big input shaft for $2,760 delivered from greenline 4 years ago. You will need all the Series 3 internals to run it.

Make sure you buy the billet centre plate from OS.

I have a spare OSG billet centre plate here ;)

Or a Trust/Quaife H-pattern dog box. :whistling:

changing gears easier would save you 5k

cost benefit ratio for you being nicer to your car is very high, and would allow you to be quicker at the strip.... as you would get to the end

lol

yeah but fatz he wants to chirp second

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
    • Ye, in terms of bolting up the "Conversion" from a GT to a GTT is effectively "Use GTT parts for everything" Except the subframe itself, because you won't want a HICAS/4WS subframe. Remember your ABS system will be different too, thanks to GT being the S15 3 sensor system, instead of the R34 4 sensor system for wheel speed. I do not know how people get this to work given R34 diffs do not have a provision for an ABS sensor (they are on the tone wheels of the axles). I assume***** people use S15 gear/R34NA forever when they realize this - Or they convert it to a rear diff/axles that are R33 style which I presume has the singular speed sensor on the diff itself, but then you have to wire it all in and...and... and...
    • Foreshadowing was never so easy.
×
×
  • Create New...