Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Wanna change my brake fluid today as its never been done.

Been investigating all the threads and think I'll be going for the Caltex Gp600 Dot 4.

I'll grab myself a bleeder kit and give it a red hot go.

Any tips on what to do cause i have no idea and can't find any DIY's on it?

Do any wheels need removing?

How many litres needed for an R33 GTST?

And not sure about the actual bleed nipple, as in what to do with it?

(a half turn or something)

Any info appreciated.

Thanks...Birnie :headspin:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38768-how-to-change-brake-fluid/
Share on other sites

you will be needing 2 bottle for a complete brake flush/bleed.

you HAVE to start working from the rear left -> rear right -> front left -> front right. Reason being that you wanna flush out all the old fluid and the only way to do that is to start flushing @ the wheel furthest from the brake cylinder..

always make sure that you do NOT empty out the brake cylinder while pumping out the old fluid. get it refill constantly with the new oil.

i did mine with the wheels on and with a half turn as well. make sure you got some degreaser or a rag on standby becos the fluid will leak onto your rims/tyres. Its very corrosive.

hope that helps.

yeah, I take the wheels off coz its a bit easier to get at the nipple. Check fluid after each wheel like GenesisR32 said.

Keep bleeding until you see the new fluid colour at the caliper and there is no bubbles

Also, if you have ABS you need to bleed the ABS unit as well.

And, since you couldn't find an FAQ thread, write one when you've done it :P

Thanks guys!

I'd lile to get some FAQs up there but will do it when i get my hands on a digital camera to make it that much better. (the oil changing one was excellent!)

What you guys wrote is definately a good start.

I nearly went ahead and did it today, but didn't thankfully.

I installed my SAFC instead. Looks sooooo cool even though it's not doing anything yet.

One wire to go.....the fuel mixture one.

The throttle display is great for a giggle. :P

Search words

-----------------

replace replacing brake fluid change changing air bubble bubbles

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starting with issues 1 - 5, we have already run into a problem...!  Issue #4 contained 2x front brake calipers, instead of 1 caliper and 1x steering knuckle. Will have to call DeAgostini on Monday to sort it out. Anyway here's some photos.  Issue #1 is the front bumper, headlights and number plate. Issue #2 is the front wheel (with "We produced with spartan air." text on the centre cap!) and tyre, the front lip spoiler and cylinder head cover with ignition coils under the centre cover... which will never be seen again. Issue #3 is the bonnet and cylinder head. Issue #4 is the front strut, brake disc (with laser etched metal discs) and brake caliper. I stopped here because of the issue with the missing steering knuckle.  Next update will be #5 - #10 in a few weeks.
    • DeAgostini is one of a few companies that release quite large (the largest commonly available size actually) 1/8 scale models in a series of weekly issues over 100 - 110 instalments.  They release different models for different markets and DeAgostini Japan have release the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo last month. I've made two of these 1/8 scale sized cars (one an R35 GT-R from 2012 - 2014, the other I'm just about halfway through, a BNR34 Skyline GT-R from the 2Fast 2Furious movie) so when this R32 was announced there was no way I could ignore it as it's my favourite out of all Nissans.  Each issue costs around $20 so it costs about $2.2K when completed. I suppose it is very expensive for what it is, but the quality and details are really very good, and there are many "gimmicks" like fully functioning exterior and interior lights operated with a remote control, working steering, all doors/bonnet/boot/fuel lid open and close, the side mirrors fold in and it even has a speaker for the engine revving sounds when you turn the lights on.  Each issue comes with a magazine that tells the story of the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo from the first design stages of the BNR32 to Group A homologation and the various racing version that were run in the Japanese Group A and JGTC, and Australian Group A.  So I plan to update the build in this thread 5 issues at a time.  https://deagostini.jp/r32/?srsltid=AfmBOooKjxDc4EUK2rmXqMBPgyHfFJ24s4oEPJBNpnF-lFlsRoW0PE6P
    • As per title.. has anyone used so far? Keen to hear results, comparisons. In the market for a new mani for my new turbo. Any issues cracking?
    • Re read everything that has been written about this in this thread.. Let us know if you're still confused.
    • This would be a new pump with new gears. I'm just unclear on whether it's a good idea to run more oil pump flow if you don't actually need said flow. Oil level is set a minute or so after shutting off a warm engine so wouldn't the high RPM oil level in the sump end up lower all things equal? Plan is OEM clearances, main concern in my mind is whether the OEM pump can keep up with the flow requirements of any additional oil coolers.
×
×
  • Create New...