Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i ws just on the hypergear website and they start rebuilds at around 400 and thats all bearing and gaskets and thats if they dont need to replace any broken parts

is that a good price or does someone do it better then 400

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yea thats what i thought and i can find a few bolt on ones off ebay for 400 but i really dont know the item and im unsure of the quality and reliability of it and how much to you think a hypergear fi-flow turbo would cost because im very keen to upgread and i wouldnt mind a nice 250kw or more but its my day to day car and not have the money to upgrade the injectors ecu afm and turbo at this point but if its almost the same price to hi-flow it i may aswell do that

also can i run a hiflowed turbo with stock injectors ecu and fuel put and afm and just run stock boost??

Or for a little bit more you can get an atr43 to suit 250kw or 300 depending on your goals. I've got my atr43 ss1 running 7psi so there isn't much reason you can't modify slowly, just be very careful about what you do in what order, I cracked a piston by taking too long to get it all tuned. But I did make 230kw with a cracked piston.

Im still pretty new on this site, let me answer this one lol

Option 1 - upgraded turbo = Tune, do u have a aftermarket ecu, if not ur up for about $5000+ (new turbo, ecu and tune)

How'd i do ?

You failed miserably unfortunately..

No way a new turbo, ecu + tune would cost this much.

Maybe if you went top of the line everything which he doesn't want to do.

Turbo = $900-1000

ECU = $600 - $1600

Tune = $500 - $800

Total = $3400 for something like

Power FC, 250-270kw hypergear turbo, tune

Total = $2000 for something like

Nistune ECU, Hypergear turbo 230kw + tune = 220kw max with stock injectors

Edited by Kasko

You failed miserably unfortunately..

No way a new turbo, ecu + tune would cost this much.

Maybe if you went top of the line everything which he doesn't want to do.

Turbo = $900-1000

ECU = $600 - $1600

Tune = $500 - $800

Total = $3400 for something like

Power FC, 250-270kw hypergear turbo, tune

Total = $2000 for something like

Nistune ECU, Hypergear turbo 230kw + tune = 220kw max with stock injectors

I dont see that i did, $1500 isnt much. If i was to be taking the next step, id be spending a lil more than $1000 on a new turbo

The HG turbo needs to magic itself onto the car for it to only cost $800-1000.

Its the hidden extras, like intake pipes, exhaust mods, injectors, AFM's, oil/water lines, stud replacement etc that some turbos require that is a hidden cost to upgrading.

Buying the parts is the easy part.

Everything costs money unless you bolt a stock one on. Plus good turbos can be had from 750 (kando) then your usual mods same as hypergear. Also is there oil in the dump all turbos have some shaft play no matter how new.

Which HG turbo? A simple rebuild/hiflow yes other HG turbos no. Don't forget labour.

Getting back to the OP I am still not convinced his turbo has anything wrong with it since it still makes boost so the best thing is to correctly diagnose what is happening before buying any parts.

ps. my daily driver has had a whole lot more than $1k spent on turbos over the years...like most SAU'ers.

Which HG turbo? A simple rebuild/hiflow yes other HG turbos no. Don't forget labour.

Getting back to the OP I am still not convinced his turbo has anything wrong with it since it still makes boost so the best thing is to correctly diagnose what is happening before buying any parts.

ps. my daily driver has had a whole lot more than $1k spent on turbos over the years...like most SAU'ers.

^ my simple turbo replacement turned into a 10k rebuild pretty quickly lol.

quick question im looking at a really cheap r34 turbo with no nosie and no shaft play and lie $150 mates rates :) i was just wondering how much shit can it handle because im going to go the road of hiflowing my r33 turbo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So we have most the interior back in, and for the first time with one OEM speaker hooked up. The 31 is running, driving and now tunes!!! Hahaha yet another step for the sub that sat 10m under for two weeks!!! unbelievable really 👌 lots of love work and not giving up on her. Seen so many youngsters part way less, and in way better condition. I’m stubborn, thinking another problem is just a hurdle to overcome, One at a time. IMG_9277.mov
    • That is correct. I'm using a modified ABS ring and a ZF speed sensor on my rear diff for speed input. I'm running a Haltech ecu. 
    • Been busy with the newborn. We originally thought we were going to go for a third, but we're good with two lol. He's starting to actually sleep now so I've had some energy to work on the car. It's been parked away in the garage since late November due to winter.  I went ahead and redid all my head oil drains. I originally had my front and rear head drain going into the same pipe but have since split them up. I also added an Ethanol content sensor to get ready to run E85 this summer. Tossed it on my return line. Sensor sits nicely under my intake manifold.    I also have a lot of parts that came in for my rear end. I'll be swapping over to a 3.3 final drive and doing the GK teck anti squat mod. While the rear subframe is off, I'll also change every bushing. We're planning on buying another house soon with the condition that I get at a minimum a 2 door garage, so I'll wait to have more room for this. Now onto the strange things that recently happened... After changing the lower rad hose (It had been sitting in my cabinet for well over a year and was the last hose I had to replace), I let the car idle in the garage to bleed my coolant. After running for a few minutes, it started missing. Got much worst within a minute or two and then stalled and would not restart. My crank sensor decided to crap itself. No damage, no explanation, just died. I went ahead and replaced it with another ZF sensor but the heavier duty stainless model with a shield. Tossed that in and started right up. Has anyone else seen this? I hate when things fail without cause. Luckily this was a blessing in disguise... This lead me to recheck my timing. It seems I may have had a beer or two the last time I had set my TDC angle as I was off exactly 5 degrees... I miscounted a line haha. I was running 5 degrees less then commanded. It's a little embarrassing but helps explain why my dyno operator seemed to think I should be making more then 478rwkws.        
    • Sharing results from recent Liberty Walk R35 GTR, since they are still considered as somesort of a V36 Skyline. We do them turbos too. This are high flowed SS-1 models with ball bearing conversion done.  Car have managed to pull 485awkws @ 20Psi so far pushing limitations of factory built engine. The build list for R35 GTR enthusiasts as follow : HyperGear high flowed stock turbos in SS1 (G25-660 specs) Custom titanium intake pipes. Vspec performance titanium front pipes. Vspec performance 4" titanium exhaust. Upgrade fuel pumps. 1200cc injectors. Ignition coilpacks Hks intake plenum. Hks intercooler piping. Greddy intercooler. Greddy bovs. Top-secret coolant reservoir. Emtron ecu. Straight E85. Built gear box.  
    • Nah no bearings, just slip fit.  Would be a reasonably challenging but not impossible job to modify it to run bearings but I'm hoping that's not necessary as I may have well built one myself if I end up spending hours modifying it!
×
×
  • Create New...