Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i ws just on the hypergear website and they start rebuilds at around 400 and thats all bearing and gaskets and thats if they dont need to replace any broken parts

is that a good price or does someone do it better then 400

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yea thats what i thought and i can find a few bolt on ones off ebay for 400 but i really dont know the item and im unsure of the quality and reliability of it and how much to you think a hypergear fi-flow turbo would cost because im very keen to upgread and i wouldnt mind a nice 250kw or more but its my day to day car and not have the money to upgrade the injectors ecu afm and turbo at this point but if its almost the same price to hi-flow it i may aswell do that

also can i run a hiflowed turbo with stock injectors ecu and fuel put and afm and just run stock boost??

Or for a little bit more you can get an atr43 to suit 250kw or 300 depending on your goals. I've got my atr43 ss1 running 7psi so there isn't much reason you can't modify slowly, just be very careful about what you do in what order, I cracked a piston by taking too long to get it all tuned. But I did make 230kw with a cracked piston.

Im still pretty new on this site, let me answer this one lol

Option 1 - upgraded turbo = Tune, do u have a aftermarket ecu, if not ur up for about $5000+ (new turbo, ecu and tune)

How'd i do ?

You failed miserably unfortunately..

No way a new turbo, ecu + tune would cost this much.

Maybe if you went top of the line everything which he doesn't want to do.

Turbo = $900-1000

ECU = $600 - $1600

Tune = $500 - $800

Total = $3400 for something like

Power FC, 250-270kw hypergear turbo, tune

Total = $2000 for something like

Nistune ECU, Hypergear turbo 230kw + tune = 220kw max with stock injectors

Edited by Kasko

You failed miserably unfortunately..

No way a new turbo, ecu + tune would cost this much.

Maybe if you went top of the line everything which he doesn't want to do.

Turbo = $900-1000

ECU = $600 - $1600

Tune = $500 - $800

Total = $3400 for something like

Power FC, 250-270kw hypergear turbo, tune

Total = $2000 for something like

Nistune ECU, Hypergear turbo 230kw + tune = 220kw max with stock injectors

I dont see that i did, $1500 isnt much. If i was to be taking the next step, id be spending a lil more than $1000 on a new turbo

The HG turbo needs to magic itself onto the car for it to only cost $800-1000.

Its the hidden extras, like intake pipes, exhaust mods, injectors, AFM's, oil/water lines, stud replacement etc that some turbos require that is a hidden cost to upgrading.

Buying the parts is the easy part.

Everything costs money unless you bolt a stock one on. Plus good turbos can be had from 750 (kando) then your usual mods same as hypergear. Also is there oil in the dump all turbos have some shaft play no matter how new.

Which HG turbo? A simple rebuild/hiflow yes other HG turbos no. Don't forget labour.

Getting back to the OP I am still not convinced his turbo has anything wrong with it since it still makes boost so the best thing is to correctly diagnose what is happening before buying any parts.

ps. my daily driver has had a whole lot more than $1k spent on turbos over the years...like most SAU'ers.

Which HG turbo? A simple rebuild/hiflow yes other HG turbos no. Don't forget labour.

Getting back to the OP I am still not convinced his turbo has anything wrong with it since it still makes boost so the best thing is to correctly diagnose what is happening before buying any parts.

ps. my daily driver has had a whole lot more than $1k spent on turbos over the years...like most SAU'ers.

^ my simple turbo replacement turned into a 10k rebuild pretty quickly lol.

quick question im looking at a really cheap r34 turbo with no nosie and no shaft play and lie $150 mates rates :) i was just wondering how much shit can it handle because im going to go the road of hiflowing my r33 turbo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...