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Thermo Fan And Cooling System Questions

Simon-S14

By Simon-S14,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
Posted

Starting gathering parts for the cooling system overhaul I'm doing to my drift car atm. I'm ditching the clutch fan set up mainly due to the fact I just don't have the room to fit all the parts required with out trimming something to make it fit.

Now I plan on running a tabata alloy core with an alloy shroud made up to space thermo and mount then too.am I beyer off running one large 16 inch spal fan in pull configuration or two 12 inch spal fans side by side also in pull mode?

I also plan on running a header/swirl put set up. Does any one have a diagram to correctly hook this up and what radiator cap I should be using on both the header tank and the rad itself?

mattye Rising Star

mattye

Posted
Posted

Hey bud in regards to the twin 12" or single 16" question. The twin 12's will cover more surface area if you do the maths. Twin 12's cover 226.08 square inches, whilst the single 16 covers 200.96 square inches.

Running with this. If you can fit a single 18" it covers 254.34 square inches. Which would be the better of the 3.

Personally if you can fit the single 18" i'd be going with that. Simplicity is always better :) Hope this helps :)

  • Like 1
abr33 Proficient

abr33

Posted
Posted

Id set it up on a 2 speed switch thing, so when its under temp it just slowly makes a breeze so you have a little airflow plus it uses hardly any current on low speed and will be quiet. Unsure if you need a special fan for low speed but with dc power i dont think so?? Thats just what id do thumbsup.gif

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
Posted

Simon, Im upgrading my twin 12inch Ebay fans to one 16inch Spal fan.

Make sure you get the 3000cfm one. Its a bit exxy but its well worth the money.

As for the header tank setup, just use a blanking cap for the radiator and a Nismo cap on the header tank.

rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted

Has anybody looked at venting the head water jackets in order to reduce localized boiling above the exhaust side of the chamber? I've tuned a high comp ls1 with this method of cooling and we were able to get the timing back up to around 22degrees (from16-17) and we gained about 25rwkw. It must be a problem with the length of the rb blocks.

The other gain is a lower coolant pressure which May reduce pumping losses.

Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
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Posted

would anyone see a problem with doing away with the rad cap on the radiator all together? for one its not going to be needed and secondly i can weld a nipple on the top tank in an elevated spot for the feed to the swirl pot anyway.

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

Simon, I intend on using a swirl pot as well, but I'll keep the radiator cap on the radiator for ease of filling most of the system as well as having a cap on the pot.

In this method, apparently the cap on the pot is to be of slightly higher release pressure than the rad cap.

Fry_33 Proficient

Fry_33

Posted
Posted

Has anyone tried these ones from eBay?? they're stupidly cheap for 2750cfm! That could mean they aren't that great but much cheaper than the SPAL one to at least try.

NOTE: I see that the SPAL 16" Extreme one has the following warnings, not sure about the ebay one?

"The fan motor is not sealed and should not be used in the following conditions. 1. High dust, dirt, and/or wet environments. 2. Unusually high ambient temperatures (exceeding 176 degrees F). 3. extended/continuous modes of operation exceeding one hour in duration."

Maybe even 2x 12" ones as it appears they are rated to 1650cfm each. Seems to be basically the same as the rating of the SPAL 12" High Performance.

Fry_33 Proficient

Fry_33

Posted
Posted

Don't know, that's what I'm asking.. hell, I may even consider using one if they are any good :) Might even be worth it for replacing the A/C one on the front?

I just had a very quick search but couldn't see any reviews..

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