Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey people, I was wondering if someone can tell me the differences between R32, R33, R34, and N1 spec GTR turbos, and how to tell them apart?

Seems that the GTR I bought off Andrew last year has neither near new, nor R34 turbos - they are completely stuffed - oil seals gone, heaps of play, and nicked wheels, so I'm looking for another pair.

Seems there are some well priced near new pairs out there, but I'd like to be sure of what I'm getting since I've been burnt once already.

Also, what are people's ideas on N1 vs 2530 vs GT-SS turbos, given that I liked the spoolup on the current turbos (usable boost at 2000, full boost of 1bar at 3200), and that I'll probably do some mods over time (like Power FC, dumps, etc), but don't want to do any internals (except maybe cams - I already have adj cam gears)?

Any help would be appreciated before I splash out next week on a new pair to rescue my car from the workshop (I've been pining for 2 weeks already :) )

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38822-gtr-turbo-info-needed/
Share on other sites

if you included markings it wouldve made my job easier!!!(being a slow typer!!)Anyway...here....

model part number Turbo type A/R

Bnr32 14411-05U20 T3 0.42

Bnr32 nismo 14411-06U00 T04B 0.42

Bcnr33 14411-24U00-4 T3 0.42

Bcnr33 N1 14411-24U10 T3 0.42

Bnr34 14411-AA300 C100 053

Bnr34 N1 14411-aa401-3 C106 0.6

I have heaps more info....what else you want to know??I have 2 BNR34 turbos in the shed also :)

Cool, thanks for that ylwgtr2...helps a lot to figure out what's what...

I know that the N1's are non-ceramic, but what about the standard R34's ?

Are the 2 you have stock R34 or N1?

Hey DeanJSL, yeah...seems that for what I'm looking for, a pair or 2510/N1/GT-SS should suit fine.

As far as I'm aware The only difference between the R34 N1 and the R34 N1 NUR spec Turbos is that the later came with Nismo extensions.

There were only 100 R34 nur spec. GTRs produced.

I have an as new set for sale at the moment with the Nismo dump pipes.

$3750.

Phillip

(07) 40698449

Ok. I was offered the dumps with them for a bit extra, but I'm a bit cash deprived at the moment , especially since I might yet be up for more engine repairs (the turbo replacement is stage two of the fault finding).

I think dumps will be the next thing to go on my car, I know what a difference it made on my last car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
    • The Frenchy's kit is the way to go forward. A modern compressor that weighs about 1/2 as much, is at least twice as efficient, and will do a good job on R134a. And of course the kit has everything else you need to connect it up and have it work properly.
    • Hey all , I am in the process of having the AC system in my r32 GTST converted from r12 to r134a and I’m being told my compressor has gone bad and I will need a new one. I was wondering if anybody has any suggestions for what is the best route to go aside from dropping $1500 on a new oem one? I did see that Frenchy’s performance garage offers a kit to mount a Toyota compressor, has anybody actually used this kit on their car? Or is there anywhere I could purchase just a clutch? Any help is appreciated.
    • Well, your RB20 ECU loom won't have wires for the boost solenoid, that boost sensor, and possibly one or two other things. There could be differences in seemingly random things like the charcoal canister purge solenoid, because the 25DET has to handle boost in the vacuum system and the 20DE does not. I don't know - I haven't looked. It is very likely that all the most important things are same-same, being the main sensors like AFM, CAS, etc, and the injectors and ignition. Not that you'll need the AFM for the Haltech anyway. I would suggest that you would seriously want to sit down with the pinouts for both ECUs and just go through them and highlight green what is the same, orange what is different/missing, and make a plan from there. It's not going to be difficult. It will either be the same or need to be fixed.
    • yeaaa that's why I haven't done any wiring to the stock ecu harness because I have the haltech, but then that leads me to the other question of "is the pnp harness really plug and play?" or would I have to still switch some pins/wires over because the pnp is for the rb25det neo harness, and not for the rb20de neo harness. was really hoping to find something to spoon feed me since so many people have done rb20neo + t conversions, but man this is rough.
×
×
  • Create New...