Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

so i brought this r32 rb20det skyline which doesnt start,

- it turns over but doesnt start,

- it has fuel pressure and the fuel lines are on the right way. so fuel is fine.. however the spark plugs are dry.

- i pulled out one of the coilpacks and sat the sparkplug on the strut bar and there is spark at the plug.

- there is power to the injectors, but they are not pulsing when i crank it.

- i took the cam angle sensor into the auto sparky for testing, it works fine.

the next thing i was going to do is replace ecu but ive read a few other forums where they say they have the same problem and replacing the ecu doesnt make a difference.

any help would be much appreciated, thanks in advance

it hasnt been started for ages id say at least 6 months, so they could be , but the mechanic said they arnt channging polarity from + to - so they dont open to let fuel through, wouldnt this mean its a electrical problem?

got a test light, shows power at the injector but no pulse just constant on both wires. this is at all times even when not cranking. yes the cam angle sensor is plugged in lol, what fuses should i check? main fuse is fine and air con and anti skid have been removed. thats all i know from memory

is the crank angle sensor plugged in lol

Spark wouldn't work if the CAS wasn't plugged in & working.

Try connecting one side of the injector to earth, and apply 12V to the other side - you should get the injector to open. If it doesn't, then either the injector needle is gummed shut, or the injector is cactus.

thats cool will try it, but that wont make it pylse will it? will it just be constantly open?

bingo. your testing that it opens, if it doesnt then its either gummed or stuffed, and yes i have heard that all 6 injectors can get clogged and stuck

You have power to both wires because the injector is simply a part of the circuit. To open the injector, the ECU switches one of the pins on the injector to earth. That provides the current flow necessary to cause the injector solenoid to activate the injector needle. You probably won't be able to tell which wire is the one being switched to earth by the ECU. If you earth the incorrect one, you risk popping the fuse.

every injector has a white wire with a black stripe

injector 1s second wire is a solid white wire

injector 2s second wire is a white wire with green stripe

injector 3s second wire is a white wire with a red stripe

injector 4s second wire is a white wire with a black stripe

injector 5s second wire is a solid blue wire

injector 6s second wire is a white wire with blue stripe

so im guessing the earth in each injector is the common one between them beingthe white 1 with a black stripe..

anyway i pulled the earth out of one of them and temporarily replaced it with an independent earth and it pulsed and the car almost started,

so what does this mean and what could i do to fix it?

note, i also swapped the ecu today so that cant be the problem

Exactly ^^^

u need to get a noid light or LED test light to check for the pulse.

Take off the return line from the fuel rail and sit in a bottle. Then crank to see if fuel flow out.

Refit

Try crimping the return line to up the pressure and rule out the fuel pressure reg.

If it still doesnt start try some start ya bastard or carby cleaner etc, spray it into the intake and see if it kicks over at all.

Let me know

Did you ever hear it running before? You said it ran 6months ago, did anything ever happen to in between?

hard to say its timming, if you need to be sure you dont have fuel spark or injection pulse 1st. If your in brisbane pm me, im a mobile auto sparkie. Really think you need to get someone to look at your car mate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
    • Nah, the car seems to run exactly as it did prior, in saying this it does "seem" to be better down low, like more eager to rev, but that may be 100% placebo effect from intake noise But, I'm not worried about it at all, in the end it is a fairly low compression NA engine that has a well shrouded intake,  if it is getting hotter IAT I cannot notice anything negative performance wise from the seat of my pants thrashing it about on the street or sitting in traffic, so meh, car now now makes induction noise so I'm happy
    • Do you have an IAT sensor? It's worth checking it to see. You may be suprised how little gap you actually need to flood your engine with hot air. (I tape up my airbox for a reason) :p
    • @KinkstaahKrinkle paint the "silver" alloy, not the red filter frame Engine bay heat won't be a issue worth worrying about as the silver alloy blocks it off on 3 sides, as for the top, the bonnet seals most of it and the big OEM CAI intake snorkel is still fitted in its original position  I will head into Clark's Rubber when I have some time to grab some pinch weld to tidy up the alloy after I paint it As for performance, I honestly wasn't expecting any, the only reason I got it is because the intake noise sounds cool to my old ears when I'm feeding it the beans Sometimes it's the silly things you do in in life that gives the most fun, and I do love anything that makes cool car noises In other news: I survived 4 nights at sea with Jackie not throwing me over board, holidays are continuing now as we are currently chilling at the Beachcomber in Toukley, after taking the coast roads from Sydney in the MX5, top down all the way, Toukley is where I spent a good deal of my youth holidaying during the summer months, there's lots of reminiscing going on,  and lots of beaches and old houses to visit Next on the list is to head to Batemans Bay for a few days, but we will take the Commodore out to stretch its legs, then Commodore hasn't really moved for months
×
×
  • Create New...