Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I'm currently halfway through installing an Autometer (4378) Pro Lite Wideband O2 gauge in my Series 2 R33 GTST.

So far so good, I've got the gauge and o2 sensor installed but I'm a bit hesitant on continuing with the wiring for the peak/recall & warning function, which reads from the wide open throttle switch signal.

The instructions state:

"WOT Peak/Recall mode provides you with a quick and easy way to find out exactly how "lean" your engine got during the last pull, run, or race. This value is recorded when the Brown wire in the instrument harness is connected to a good engine ground via a normally open, momentarily closed wide open throttle switch. This allows peak readings to be sampled only during wide open throttle conditions. If the Air/Fuel monitor gauge will not be used with a wide open throttle switch, connect the brown wire permanently to a good engine ground to continuously monitor for peak conditions."

Can anyone confirm which wire this is on the ECU harness? I've had a look at an RB25 ECU pinout and there's two TPS wires, which are #38 = "Throttle Position Sensor Sense", and #48 = "Throttle Position Sensor", but I'm not confident in which one would be the WOT switch wire.

If anyone could point me in the right direction it'd be much appreciated

Cheers & thanks

neither is the WOT switch. they are both just TPS sensor wires. the ecu just goes off the voltage for WOT. you would need to install a switch yourself that simply gets triggered by the accelerator pedal. it isn't that hard once.

Ah no worries, thanks for confirming Hugh. I wasn't sure if it was going to be as simple as splicing a wire on the ecu harness.

Instead of setting up a switch for it, I reckon I'll just ground that wire instead and use the data out from the WB gauge to my PFC datalogit for checking peak AFRs.

Thanks again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As strange as this sounds (as they are fixed back), my Bride Xero CS seats are the most comfortable seats I've used.  I vote go genuine.  The only downside I've found is on very long drives, you can't reposition your body while driving. So even though its comfy, being locked in the same position eventually becomes uncomfortable. I find myself stopping every 3 or so hours to stretch my legs on long drives. 
    • You don't have to be bored driving a Camry. Not based on the way that a couple of f**king Ubereats/Didi/othersortofmethaddlednightshiftattheservicestationrecentimmmigrants were piloting them on the way to work this morning. f**k me dead!
    • FWIW, the Bride reps are really nice to sit in. The only complaint I have, other than the tear in my bolster, is that the velcro used to hold the backrest cushion in place, up under the headrest, is a little obvious and intrusive and could probably be done better. I don't know if that is a "feature" on the genuine ones also though. I haven't looked at a genuine one like the ones I have, only some of the older models. The other thing is, even though I bought the CF ones, I think the CF is really just decorative, over the top of the same FG as the normal seats. And so they really aren't light. Between the solidly built CF/FG seat, the steel frame in the recliner mechanism, and the solid-arse seat rail, they are probably heavier than even the stock seat. They are a serious lift to get in and out of the car.
    • Yes, and so the barest minimum power target is the one that makes the most sense. Massive power is fun, but you can only use it for 1.5s at a time, and only every now and then. Medium power levels allow you to enjoy the car far more often and for longer. 500 engine HP is just below 300 rwkW which is about the maximum that is sensible for any street car really. And for a 2.6L six, it will still leave you with a decent boost response and some sort of linearity of power delivery. As you get up towards 400rwkW the onset of power tends to be increasingly like a cliff and you need drag radials to keep the ground in proper contact with the car, and.... it's just not a car for driving around any more.
    • I already reached that conclusion myself after reading up a whole bunch and watching various videos from multiple sources. Don't know yet how I'd best manage that with the least amount of headache. Probably pulling the sump and just welding on a AN10 adapter or something. I also think it's healthy to take most opinions with a grain of salt, because experiences differ wildly and especially Aussies - when talking about RBs - don't know a world below 600whp drag builds. Personally I doubt I will ever take my R33 racing, so it's going to be a street car with the occasional spirited drive. Hence why I am (so far) under the impression that I'm going to be fine with a stock-ish engine for a while.
×
×
  • Create New...