My Set Up

[R TUNE]

Just seeing what people think of my set up, ive been browsing the rb20 upgrade page and ive noticed that people with a similer set up are getting around 30rwkw more then mine.

my set up is the following

Rb20DET 110000km

Nistune ECU

Blits FMIC

K&N pod

Rb25 turbo @ 14PSI

CES racing 3" split dump

High flow cat

3.5" RS*R cat back exhaust

Walbro 500hp fuel pump

Turbo tech boost T

Ive had the car tuned twice in the current set up, first was with the auto in it, 2nd when i converted to manual. On the manual one power jumped 20rwkw and a it took 4 hours to tune.

BTW my fuel econermy is 12L/100km

[BOOZTJUNKEY]

What is the compression like on the engine ?

With the same mods I made just over 190rwkw so yeah there is definetly a restriction or low compression there

[BOOZTJUNKEY]

What is the compression like on the engine ?

With the same mods I made just over 190rwkw so yeah there is definetly a restriction or low compression there

[GTSBoy]

Why did the tuner stop gaining power?  Was it because you were running out of injector?  If your injectors are sticky/dirty and can't flow the fuel, then the mixtures will either get lean or the tuner will stop pushing when he sees the duty cycle maxxing out.  That would be my number one guess.

FWIW, my RB20 has 040 pump, std injectors, std turbo, similar dump to yours, big cat and 3 inch exhaust, old old intercooler made from a cut down truck core (back when proper coolers were $2000), and makes ~170rwkW on a dyno that reads similarly to most other DD dynos (ie not a happy dyno and not a sad one). My injectors are pretty much maxxed out at that point. They've never been out of the engine, but I have no reason to believe that they're especially dirty. Oh, and my AFM is running out of headroom at that level too. When you get them up over 180rwkW or so, you are running past the end of the AFM's scale most of the time and relying on having enough fuel in the last column of the map to cover bigger loads that aren't measured properly.

Edited January 16, 2012 by GTSBoy

[Roy]

Some thoughts,. There is no way an R33 turbo should be hitting boost later then my TD06-20G.

How well do you know your tuner?

I personally would fit a section of flanged pipe in place of the cat for tuning. Have a close look at the boost controller as an R33 turbo with an R32 actuator will run about 13-14psi and probably hold boost better then that setup in it.

At the end of the day the dyno readout is just a figure but I cant believe it would be that far out and suspect you are right that the setup has more in it.

Also the fuel economy seems bad as well. I get about 12--14L/100km potting around city driving. On the highway I get between 9-10L/100km. So perhaps make sure your AFM is clean and the O2 sensor is functioning correctly too

[Sinista32]

Fairly low.

My RB 20 had similar mods. I did have better injectors, and bosch external coils. Pulled 180kws

oh and a 2530 turbo on unopend engine. Yes Z32 AFM.

[R TUNE]

Thanks guy.

I havnt done a compression check since I had the car.

As for the tunner he is consider the dest in Darwin and one of only two recommended to me. I'm not shore about the injectors, and he didn't mention any thing to me about them.

Fitter the 33 turbo came with a his adj acctuator but I could only get it to 8psi with a boost t, so I sealed it to the 32 stock actuator.

[R TUNE]

And the fuel economy is town driving.

[R31Nismoid]

You are only running 12psi up top.

160rwkw doesn't sound out of the norm. It's probably in similar ball park to to running 8-9psi on a RB25 in the top end, which would make around that. Maybe 10rwkw more (so call it dyno variance).

So look to fixing the boost control and you should be fine.

Also you are in a hot climate, this plays a factor.

[BLITZ-26]

i had a mate same sort of setup as your with basically the same mods at pulled 160KW as well i dont think its abnormal

[R TUNE]

Thanks guys, When dynoed i think it was about 22deg cel.