Jump to content
SAU Community

Insurance Company Doesent Want To Pay

GD51LA

By GD51LA,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

GD51LA Mentor

GD51LA

Posted
Posted

My car was hit when it was parked, the driver left he's details on my windscreen so I called him up and he gave me the claim number, but when I called AAMI up they wherent very helpfull, they said we haven't approved it yet?? So the driver of the other car called them back to see why, they told him they wher going to fix my car. But when I called them t hey gave the same distant attitude "we haven't approved it yet"

My insurance company won't chase up the matter because my policy is only third party, and a third party policy is for fire and theft only...

The guy that hit my car seems pretty reasonable, is there anything more he can do?

What are my options? How can I get them to pay??

Mick_o Grand Master

Mick_o

Posted
Posted

I thought 3rd party insurance only covers the bill for the other vehicles not your own hence the fire and theft only....but if old mate ran into u his insurance company should cover the repairs to your vehicle

boiracer Grand Master

boiracer

Posted
Posted

like he said, yours wont do shite, you have to chase it all up and make sure his insurance figures it out. go get some quotes for the repairs and hand em to old mates insurance company.

this is a really good reason to have comprehensive, that way they do all the work.....well most of it

Idaten Enthusiast

Idaten

Posted
Posted

I fully advocate comprehensive third party. If I didn't have full third party, I'd park my car up.

Then probably have it hit by somebody anyway, which seems the case with you. (I'll give you the benefit of the doubt and pretend you weren't driving around without it.)

To start with, I'd call them up (AAMI) again for a few reasons. Firstly, make sure they are fully aware you're in contact with the owner of the other vehicle and that he has informed you everything is in order. They should be able to tell you more than "Not approved". Especially since he can.

On that note, I'd also be asking them what the time frame was to have your car fixed. Quotes as Boiracer suggested is also a good idea, simply just to have that knowledge for future reference.

Let us know how you go tomorrow anyway. There is no reason AAMI shouldn't be helping you out A.S.A.P.

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

There is a governing body that oversees the way insurance companies behave > Financial Ombudsman Service Ltd GPO Box 3 Melbourne VIC 3001.

...and Local call from anywhere in Aust 1300.780.808

Insurance companies must abide by the body's decision to resolve a dispute.

  • 2 weeks later...
Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

Regardless of what his insurance company says or does, it is on him to be paying you out as he was the one who hit you, therefore legally required to make amends. If insurance company is unwilling to resolve in a timely manner, get quotes on repairing your car and ask the guy to pay for repairs himself and have the insurance compny reimburse him...let him deal with "approval" or "non-approval",

BeastVS Enthusiast

BeastVS

Posted
Posted

Why are you even talking to your insurance company ? He hit you, he is at fault, he makes the claim for both cars through his insurance. You talk to his insurance company not your own. Or did I read that completely wrong ?

NXTIME Grand Master

NXTIME

Posted
Posted

Terry, I don't think the Ombudsman will get involved until it reaches the completion of the IRR stage.

I would get two quotes and then send AAMI a Letter of Demand for all your losses asking for payment to fix your car.

evil_weevil Grand Master

evil_weevil

Posted
Posted

if you arent happy with AAMI's response, you ask to speak to a manager, if they say no, ask them they need to inform you of their internal dispute resolution process.

each insurer has this and they have to advise you of this if you are not happy with a situation.

they'll then have 10 days from memory to get back to you.

they have to inform you each part of the process, and if any delays, and expected time frame.

just because they arent your insurer doesnt mean they shouldnt help.

they have taken on a risk and that risk has caused loss/damage to a third party = you. so they should accept if all liability points to it. (I imagine it would as he has legft a note)

with the IDR process, iif by a certain time fram there is no result, then it goes to the EDR (external) and thats where the FOS gets involved as per Terry's post.

good luck with it.

evil_weevil Grand Master

evil_weevil

Posted
Posted

also,

perhaps on next renewal with your insurer, or when car is repaired get a quote for full comprehensive instead of third party.

would save this hassle.

(they prob wont do it now as car has pre existing damage)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • GTSBoy
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • dbm7
      BCNR33 Blower Motor Resistor - Testing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...