Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yesterday, I took my GTT out for a spirited ride. The combination meter was working fine when I started the car but I hit a lot of bumps getting on the freeway. Now, my combination metter cluster doesn't read my RPMs and the needle stays at 0. Moreover, my Apexi AVC-R doesn't read RPM either (as well as it's stop reading injector strength). Ironically, when I hit bumps the tacho works for a couple of seconds then goes back to 0 when the road is straight. What's going on?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388503-tacho-not-working/
Share on other sites

Maybe this ECU pinout diagram wil help you ensure you checked the correct wires -

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/366040-shift-light-help/

I had a similar issue with my R33, mine ended up being a dry joint on the back of the cluster itself. Years of 'bumpy roads' shook it loose. Mine would come in and out aswell. But your issue may be different if its not showing on the AVC-R either? Unless they are somehow connected?

I reflowed the back of my cluster with a rework station and flux to ensure all the joints were stable. if yoru not confident with this, you could always just use a soldering iron.

Maybe this ECU pinout diagram wil help you ensure you checked the correct wires -

http://www.skylinesa...ift-light-help/

I had a similar issue with my R33, mine ended up being a dry joint on the back of the cluster itself. Years of 'bumpy roads' shook it loose. Mine would come in and out aswell. But your issue may be different if its not showing on the AVC-R either? Unless they are somehow connected?

I reflowed the back of my cluster with a rework station and flux to ensure all the joints were stable. if yoru not confident with this, you could always just use a soldering iron.

I think that's the issue there, bud. I wired my MFD into the ECU. My ECU, AVC-R, and combination cluster are all connected together via a splice connector. I didn't have much space so I stuffed all my wires behind the cluster and screwed it back in place. Perhaps, there's a little bit too much pressure.

pinch.gif

Fantastic, thats a great starting point.

Now, do you have a friend or access to a spare cluster that you can plug in to verify this?

If it is the cluster, you can either obviously replace the cluster or you can try and repair the existing tacho - standard soldering iron, flux and and some solder will do the trick. Just retouch all of the joints for it.

And for the future, maybe extend your wires and plant them back behind the centre stereo / air con vents - plenty of room behind there.

Fantastic, thats a great starting point.

Now, do you have a friend or access to a spare cluster that you can plug in to verify this?

If it is the cluster, you can either obviously replace the cluster or you can try and repair the existing tacho - standard soldering iron, flux and and some solder will do the trick. Just retouch all of the joints for it.

And for the future, maybe extend your wires and plant them back behind the centre stereo / air con vents - plenty of room behind there.

I have a brand new Nismo cluster installed about 2 weeks ago. I don't think it's the cluster but, yeah, I have the stock cluster that I can use. I wanted to move the wires around but I got lazy and just left them there. LOL.

  • 2 weeks later...

ok, mate, I fixed the problem a couple of days ago. I made a wiring harness for my MFD:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/221016-r34-gtr-mfd-in-gtt/page__view__findpost__p__6165983

and stuffed everything behind the combination meter. Some of the wires had broken off the harness per all the pressure behind the combination cluster. I rewired everything and put all the harness ending behind the radio, underneath the MFD.

Everything is working perfect now: RPM on my Nismo cluster and my Apexi... My MFD is even reading injector which it wasn't before when I initially installed it. I just hate seeing that Oil Temp gauge now working. I can't wait to until the Nismo upgrade. thumbsup.gif

  • 1 month later...

Ok, the mystery continues with the oil temperature and my MFD. At first I thought I didn't have an oil temperature sensor but I got my Skyline from the shop 2 weeks ago (where they removed the plenum to rework my vacuum lines) and now my oil temperature reads when I driving fast. The Oil Temp gauge on the MFD used to not read ANYTHING but now it does but only when I'm driving hard. It seems like a wire is lose. Any suggestions?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for sharing. That's a great video! My buddy is doing the same thing on his build (S chassis struts and towers). He's building an S14 with billet RB30 shooting for 2000whp... a race car with a TH400 just like this video. For a road car I just couldn't go this route as the strut has to be almost vertical and the caster is not going to pivot correctly (let alone camber gain). You think the R32 frontend is bad, wait till you put a MacPherson strut on without modeling it all in Solidworks to check geometry. I'm not saying it's a bad way to do it but I'd be really curious to see how it affects the geometry.
    • Hey Christof and welcome!  Sounds like an awesome project! I'm not sure many of the regular users on here would know much about the HK but I could be wrong.  Looking forward to updates.
    • As long as its NOT a HyperSHITtune, youll be fine.
    • First time visitor and currently getting ready to start work on my HK Premier.  Its all stock, 186 with 3 on the tree.  The only mod i have right now is extractors.  I am hoping to get some guidance on slightly modifying the engine to bring a little more power. Just going for a nice, comfortable cruiser.  The car is very straight, however i have been out of the country for 20 years and its been gathering dust at a family farm.  Will be doing quite a bit of body work to cut out some small rust areas (frnt quarter panels and a few other small bits) and fix up the paint.  Will be redoing the interior (its currently black and the seats are in real need of recovering and respringing the driver side (its front bench seat).  The dash needs a little TLC, but no real damage.  As my heater has degraded I am considering fitting something after-market that will be both heater/AC (recommendations here are always welcome). Wanting something discrete that will allow me to use the same controls and not be obvious once inside the car.   For the engine, i have been told i could consider upgrading my cam (imagine i would need a new head as well) and putting a new carby (currently the original stromberg).  However not sure what is going to be the best route.  Would certainly welcome any comments/suggestions.  As  a final step I am looking at changing the wheels. Current hubcaps are in dire need of refurbishment or replacement (imagine its a bit like hens teeth).  Thinking of some clean/classic looking mags (7-inch should be more than enough - not going for a large change in look).  Welcome any comments/advice and of course any questions. 
    • I got the ARC M079 due to the space constraint.  Been running mint for the last 3 years.  Plazmaman also seems like a really solid choice but not used myself.    Hunt around for a better price but this is what I have - https://www.rhdjapan.com/arc-brazing-intercooler-smic-m079-bnr32.html
×
×
  • Create New...