Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

does anyone have a guide on the correct procedure to remove a series 2 rb25det engine from a r33 in the correct manner. i can pull an engine no problem but i just want make sure i dont run into any snags along the way. as i only have 2 days to do it.

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388552-gtst-engine-removal/
Share on other sites

I don't imagine it would be too difficult mate

Remove gearbox, disconnect exhaust, plumbing, wiring loom, fuel lines, coolant hoses and radiator for more room

Remove the nuts from the engine mount studs and pull it out :)...

I'm sure there's a couple of other little things but that's the most of it

Drain all the fluids first too ;) except clutch and brake of course

Do a GTR, now that's a pain in the ar$e lol

ok im looking for help not smart arse comments, yes i could take it to the shop im not retarded. the idea is A. so i save some money! and B. i can do with the experience of learning as most of you guys complain " oh the new guys to imports dont even know a there way around a car they just take it to a mechanic and say make my car fast" well herei am trying to learn how to do it myself. right o

I don't imagine it would be too difficult mate

Remove gearbox, disconnect exhaust, plumbing, wiring loom, fuel lines, coolant hoses and radiator for more room

Remove the nuts from the engine mount studs and pull it out :)...

I'm sure there's a couple of other little things but that's the most of it

Drain all the fluids first too ;) except clutch and brake of course

Do a GTR, now that's a pain in the ar$e lol

that last comment wasnt directed to u mate, thanks for the help

maybe you can also help yourself though by doing some research first though...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/41121-removing-a-gtr-enginegearbox-plus-more/page__p__843424__hl__engine__fromsearch__1#entry843424

yep its for a gtr but it should still be fairly similar

pretty straight forward, unplug everything wiring loom related, remove intake piping/intercooler/vac lines/radiator/clutchfan or thermos, unbolt and tie out of the way AC compressor and power steering pump, remove gearbox bolts (ones up the top are dream boats), attach engine crane, undo engine mounts from cross member, check you have everything free/clear/unplugged and remove it keep in mind the engine must come forward to get the input shaft from the gearbox out of the clutch.

maybe you can also help yourself though by doing some research first though...

http://www.skylinesa...__1#entry843424

yep its for a gtr but it should still be fairly similar

i have been searching all day all i can find is gtr manuals. thats why i posted here,

I have just rebuilt my engine and i couldnt find a written procedurethis is what i did.

Disconnect battery Remove Exhaust dump pipe to tail pipe drop engine coolant and remove radiator

Remove plastic around shifter and remove shifter cover & remove g/stick

Disconect neutual and reverse switch connections also remove clutch slave cylinder and tape it togeather so it doesnt leak zip tie it out of the way

Undo tailshaft but dont remove Jack and support rear of engine so it doesnt hit the steering rack get it a low as you can as i had to use very long extension bars to get to the bellhousing bolts remove transmission with tailshaft connected so not to loose oil. Also keep engine supported.

Disconnect Engine wiring loom oil switch steering switch air cond wire. Undo heater hoses turbo to air filter brake booster vac hoses fuel lines disconnect pwr steering res and drain

Unbolt and remove pwr steering pump and braket. Also unbolt air cond pump and bracke zip tie out of the way.

Undo engine mount nuts and remove engine

refit engine in revese order

I hope i havnt forgotten anything

ote name='riley' timestamp='1326791310' post='6192287']

does anyone have a guide on the correct procedure to remove a series 2 rb25det engine from a r33 in the correct manner. i can pull an engine no problem but i just want make sure i dont run into any snags along the way. as i only have 2 days to do it.

thanks

Forgot on my last post

ALSO TAKE A COUPLE OF ENGINE BAY PHOTOS BEFORE YOU START THAT WAY YOU HAVE A REFERENCE FOR INSTALLING THE ENGINE AGAIN

does anyone have a guide on the correct procedure to remove a series 2 rb25det engine from a r33 in the correct manner. i can pull an engine no problem but i just want make sure i dont run into any snags along the way. as i only have 2 days to do it.

thanks

i find pulling the box out with the motor is much faster. unless you have a hoist with rattle gun and massive extensions to undo gearbox bolts.

mines a rb2530 with custom mounts and getting the the gearbox bolts are some what impossible.

Yep I pulled mine out with the box on.

i find pulling the box out with the motor is much faster. unless you have a hoist with rattle gun and massive extensions to undo gearbox bolts.

mines a rb2530 with custom mounts and getting the the gearbox bolts are some what impossible.

The ones i hae done we pulled them with the box attatched. Much faster :) Just dont forget the clutch line :)

But as suggested its the same as every other engine. Unplug plugs, un-do hoses.

If its a stock turbo, then removing the turbo and dump pipe in one piece is highly recommended :) SO much easier than undoing and doing up those assf**k dump pipe bolts lol. It can be done.

as said leave the gearbox attached. leave p/s, air con and clutch slave all attached to their lines and unbolt them from motor/box so you dont have to deal with any of the fluids. make sure you pull it out somewhere with plenty of height clearance as you'll need to get a fair bit of angle to get the box out aswell.

best bet for getting it done quickly would be to find someone on here local to you and pay them with beer to give you some guidanc. once you know what your doing you can go from complete running car to motor on the ground with box off in around 2 hours working at a steady pace, rushing just leads to losing skin....

Edited by JonnoHR31

i loved my SR20 use to have the motor & box out within 1 1/2 hours. when i changed the clutch i use to rip the motor with box out together done in like 5 hours and driving LOL

the RB does take longer but once you do it a couple of times it gets faster

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This sounds like a perfect excuse to install a Haltech R3.
    • I do believe from context he is talking about a S0/S1 R33 RB25 with associated ECU and Wiring for that, and a manual gearbox into a R34 N/A Auto. I don't have the knowledge of all the pinouts and such but my gut feeling from doing my own conversion is to use as much of the R33 stuff that you can. The "car" wiring is quite seperate from the "Engine" wiring when all things are considered. The only things to truly consider 99% of the time is the cluster, reverse lights and potentially disabling the 'not in P/N' immobilizer circuit.
    • A realistic expectattion of how long it has to last also comes down to.... when do you think you will be banned from registering and driving old petrol powered shitters? It's 27 years since that thing was built. It probably rusted out 15 years ago. It was probably repaired and looked OK for another 10. If you do a similarish bodge job now, or perhaps slightly better with some actual rust conversion and glassing, then.... get another 10-15 years out of it, after which you'll only be permitted by the CCP to drive electric cars manufactured in their Shenzen zone anyway. 
    • Let me assume that the concern over a manual ECU is that the NeoDET that you have was an auto and has an auto ECU. That ECU will not be a problem, but you WILL have to Nistune it. And you would have to Nistune it even if you had a manual ECU, because the turbo ECUs will shit the bed if they do not have all the things that they were told they have to have, to be happy. The big one being the TCS CU, which you won't have in your car. Anyway, with an auto ECU (which I have running my originally auto NeoDET in an R32) Nistune allows you to put in a Stagea image which doesn't panic about the absent TCS, and allows you to override a whle bunch of other annoyances that would otherwise see the check engine light on 100% of the time. Also, you can't wind up the power very far on the stock NeoDET ECUs without Nistune, because the boost sensor gets in the way. Nistune allows you to push that problem much further up the dial. Do you even have the boost sensor with the engine? Without it, you are SOL and will need an aftermarket ECU (or to find a sensor somewhere, god knows where). I can't tell you what the wiring loom differences are in a 34. But what Duncan said above needs to be considered. When you say "loom", does that include the transmission loom? Because you will need to swap out the auto tranny loom for the equivalent manual loom, and get rid of the neutral/park start interlock (basically hot wire it).
    • I have had the r3c in for years now, maybe close to 7 years and it has never missed a beat, anyone can drive it. Super easy to drive around town, the hotter it gets does get a little hard but it holds the power easy as 
×
×
  • Create New...