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RB26 camshafts in RB20??

bbenny

By bbenny,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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DoughBoy Veteran

DoughBoy

Posted
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, and a few things falling into place the next 24hrs will play a big role in whether i bother with my current engine, or start with a blank canvas.

Roy, the clinic just called. They've approved your application for "the operation". Have you asked Prank to change your nic to "Royette"?

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armbrusb Proficient

armbrusb

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I have swapped by RB20DET in cam for an RB20DE.

You need to get the timing belt off, which is real simple and explained on the forum and in the GTR manual in the forum, making sure that everything is at top dead centre which is easy coz there are markings on the timing comers and on the rear timing cover (behind the cam gears). When taking of the harmonic balancer you will need a 27mm (I think socket). FYI – it is a normal thread.

Take the cam cover off.

Take the cam gears off.

Take the rear timing cover off (the cover behind the cam gears).

Very gradually undo the bolts that hold the bridges that hold the cam gear down. Do this slowly and take your time. When I did it I got some crud caught in the brackets which made it very difficult to undo the bolts - I though that I had threaded the holes but it was all ok.

You will notice that the bridges are numbered. They go from one to seven (I think) front to back. There are also little bumps in them that tell you which is the right hand side. Clean them up and take a look before you take them off - remember not to get excited and rush it.

Once the cam is out you can put the new one in. You might like to get a new front seal as the old one may be a little stretched. I think I paid $30 each (one for each cam) from Nissan who had them in stock.

I had a problem whereby the crud in the bridges made the screws stuck in there and I could not turn them. Using a vice and a hold punch I managed to get them out.

Remember to crew the cam in gradually when putting it back in. When I did mine I used the torque settings in the GTR manual which saw me snap one of the bolts. Once I got it back out again I simply screwed them down tight.

Put it back together ensuring everything is at top dead centre.

FYI the exhaust cam has a little something extra in the end of it which drives the crank angle sensor which the in cam does not have (this will help you to identify it if you mix them up).

I have tried to be brief. If you would like me to describe something in more detail let me know. Also look on the forum for the GTR manual. It has pictures.

jnr32r Proficient

jnr32r

Posted
Posted

Roy, you said doing it with the head on holds a few more challanges... why do you think so?

I would have thought taking the head off would be more difficult as you have more things to take off and be more careful with.

Only bonus is you can change your gasket, maybe do some porting and check out the condition of your pistons(not that youll see all that much... )

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Dont have to, just thought i would, std springs are fine, my valvetrain is getting a little long in the tooth, so though some fresh valvesprings will help when i wind 1.4bar into the old girl (There she blows!)

My uinderstanding is the valves themselves will fall into the combustion chamber if you remove the valvesprings and associated valvetrain.

CrazyMan Enthusiast

CrazyMan

Posted
Posted
Dont have to, just thought i would, std springs are fine, my valvetrain is getting a little long in the tooth, so though some fresh valvesprings will help when i wind 1.4bar into the old girl (There she blows!)

My uinderstanding is the valves themselves will fall into the combustion chamber if you remove the valvesprings and associated valvetrain.

i wouldnt take your springs off without takin your head off, unless your pretty good. and puttin the collets back in would be fun with the head on, as you wouldnt be able to hold the valve up

armbrusb Proficient

armbrusb

Posted
Posted

It's the thicker white mark. If you are unsure, there are also timing marks on the cam gears and rear timing case cover. You can use them instead of the marks on the crank pulley.

I don't think that I would be able to do the job with-out removing the radiator.

bbenny Mentor

bbenny

Posted
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Hey Waz,

Not alot happening at this stage as i had to fork out for new brake rotors just yesterday and decided to get some DBA 4000. very nice i might add, but this means the cam and cam/gear purchase has been put on hold. hopefully i will get around to it in the next week or two.

has anyone else started yet?

i managed to download the R32 GTR manual in PDF form, excellent help, i have printed out the relevant pages. it doesnt look like a difficult job, just alot of crap needs removing in order to get to the camshafts. what sux is having to drain the radiator and pull it out. its a fiddly job to do at home, looks like it will take a whole saturday to do properly

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Roy,

You said you were looking at valve springs.

You wouldn't have a price on them would u? just off the top of your head.

I'm going to do valve springs to suit the cams later downt he track. BUT the price for a set of valve springs I got was up around the $700 mark.

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