Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Header.jpg

I purchased this car from the last owner, in NSW, who was the first owner in the country and had the car imported through J-Spec. Comes with a folder FULL of instruction manuals for parts, owners handbooks, import papers etc.

Being a factory RWD, it is ~200kg lighter than the AWD version which means better power to weight and more fuel efficient.

Model: 1998 Nissan Stagea RS V - S2

Mileage: 83444 (as of 04 April 2011)

Factory Options:

Rb25det neo

Factory RWD, tiptronic box

Switchable Traction Control

Rear Privacy Glass

Rear Cargo Blind

Rear Cargo Net

5 Piece Floor Mats

Air Con w/Climate Control

Auto Closing Tailgate

Reclining Rear Seat

Dual Airbags

Aftermarket Options:

R33 brakes all round

R33 GTR Intercooler with East Bear piping kit

Brand new battery

CUSCO mechanical LSD

Genuine Dolphin Full Bodykit

NA Grille (Chrome)

Dolphin Roof Panels (to delete ugly black rails on stock Stageas)

Full Re-spray in R34 GTR Z-tune silver

Aftermarket Wing

Nismo Exhaust

Nismo Strut Tower Brace

Currently has Precedeo lowered springs in the rear and standard struts in the front

K&N panel filter

Australian Standard alarm and immobiliser with 2 remotes

High End Sony CD/MD Player and Speakers (Awesome sound setup - model numbers can be found in the instruction manual pic)

SAFC2

18" factory V35 wheels

S14 rear cradle (non Hicas)

Brand new whiteline polyurethane subframe bushes

Brand new tie rod ends

Clear side indicators

HKS EVC3 (not currently installed)

Nismo Aluminium Foot Pedal Covers (Not currently fitted)

Last owner had the boost controller in it and running 12 psi made 297rwhp (219kW) with dyno sheets.

The negatives:

- Front bar has a small amount of damage to the drivers side lower corner. It has been re-fibreglassed from the inside, just the outside visible bit that requires attention if fussy.

- Wing was painted in a rush for Autosalon, the colour match and finish is not perfect but close enough.

- V35 wheels have some scuff marks

For reference sake, the vs-kf in the pics are 18x9.5+2 and 18x9.5+1

Some of the bolt on parts have been removed since the AutoSalon photos, the pics with the V35 wheels are as it sits currently.

Price is $13,500ono and car is located in Adelaide.

100_1605.jpg

100_1608.jpg

100_1614.jpg

100_1611.jpg

100_1607.jpg

stageamanuals.jpg

Add some big wheels and some low;

IMG_7873.jpg

IMG_7892.jpg

40775_137702392934207_109368819100898_157971_754646_n.jpg

stagrear.jpg

Convert to manual and take it sliding for something different - could also leave it auto and do the same as per this video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ernlW5v1oE

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • In a few years from now, you'll regret that. It'll eat away at you, knowing the truth of the ugly hiding beneath the beautiful exterior... 😛
    • I don't think the G2 profile is particularly dangerous for the engine per se, more just are you actually ok with the turbo lag trade-offs? If the answer is yes then go for it. I personally don't think I'd be ok with it because I spend so much time at lower RPMs and I really enjoy the feeling of being able to stay in 5th gear on the highway and just roll into the throttle to get boost. Or staying in 3rd gear on "gentle canyon cruises" without feeling the turbo lag too badly. The 525 pump should be able to run flat out on factory lines but I would bet the pressure drop from pump to regulator is quite impressive. I don't know how much it would be exactly but I've seen figures like 30 psi thrown around.
    • It's interesting seeing everyone talk about what level of risk they are happy to tolerate.  Building a GTR always has a level of risk, you could be that lucky guy that drops 20k on the engine build alone and still has the thing go pop on the dyno. Life is fun like that.  The way I see it, the thing is a toy to be enjoyed. I'd be happy to turn up the power on stock motor and limit the risk with sensible tuning and engine protection. If it still goes pop, it is what it is. The car isn't a daily driver so it can happily sit while a plan is made to sort it out.  Given this thing will be a street car only, I really feel it's worth the (relatively small if managed well) risk to turn the power up to around 350KW on e85.  I don't think anyone getting into the skyline game now is doing it out of logic. Surely it is a purely emotional decision so I'm not sure how important it is to think about the engine build logically. The heart wants what it wants.  @joshuaho96 little note for Josh, I run my 525 pump flat out all the time and through the factory lines without any issues. (excluding the melting connectors, that's sorted now. we'll pretend it never happened lol)
    • But the Nexus S3 is very expensive and won't be as purpose-built for the application as a separate electronic boost controller :^) More seriously my pet issue here would be that the Walbro 525 running at 100% duty cycle is going to require more FPR than the stock setup can handle. I'm also pretty sure from what I've seen elsewhere you might want to slow down the pump regardless unless you're going to come up with some way of upsizing the fuel lines coming from the fuel tank. Factory 8mm fuel line doesn't actually flow very much if you want to keep pressure drop down between the fuel pump outlet and FPR. If you really want to "keep it simple" I would run only as much pump as you need and source a fuel pump controller to slow down the pump in the vain hope of being able to run stock-style FPRs which are pretty dinky. Or just use the HICAS lines and it should be mostly fine. OP should also really think hard about what profile they'd want out of the turbo. My pet choice here would be the G1 profile rather than anything higher power but YMMV. I already think ~stock turbo lag is pretty bad so I don't want to make it worse. In "gentle canyon cruising" I found that I spent a lot of time around 4-4.5k RPM. I also recommend DIYing labor if you're detail-oriented enough. Costs are high for labor + if you do it yourself you can be your own quality control.
    • GTSBoy is again on the money. My actual advice? Sell the car. (really). For what it's worth as is, you can sidegrade into something much better. If you care about function then this is the actual move. If you want a Skyline to perform, set aside about $100K to do it. This is NOT a typo. You will see right away these are two very different mindsets. Realistically we're talking full restomod for any Skyline still kicking around. Have an honest think about which one you are.. and what you want to do, and how much you want to invest in this (with no return).
×
×
  • Create New...