Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm Looking at getting my Stag tuned with the nistune board......And Just want to know what Mods people have done before getting it done....and also what they used brand wise...

I was thinking:

Coil packs ,Yellow jackets or Splitfires or something

Fuel pump ?

Electronic boost controller ?

I already have 3" turbo back and FMIC

Any input would be appreciated

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388648-help-with-mods-before-nistune/
Share on other sites

Definitely get a new fuel pump - Deatschwerks, Denso, Nismo, Bosch 044 and wire it directly for full voltage (with a relay - tutorials on this site) and change your fuel filter. Do you have a high flow panel filter? Whatever air filter you use check to see if it needs replacing.

Are you having problems with your coils? If not you can replace them anytime and won't affect your tune. Just replace your plugs and gap them down to 0.8mm and thouroughly clean your coils and maybe spray them with a sealant.Oviously you can run too much boost if you're on the stock turbo but a good ebc will enable you to hit max boost more quickly. I iwll be using the Link so can't advise you on which ebc.

Cheers thanks for the info.....Yeah I currently have a flat spot at 5000rpm thinking its the coils tried taping them up as well as a high temp sealant ...with no change....I just don't want to get the car on the dyno and something like that fail and have to get it re tuned later........Change spark plugs recently and re gaped them to

I've got a pod filter and in the proces of making a cold air box for it.....

Thanks again ....

Have a look at these:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-SKYLINE-R33-RB25-GTST-SERIES-2-R34-RB26-GTR-FULL-SET-NEW-6-COIL-PACKS-/330671882812?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4cfd94823c

I bought a set off this guy and they are in my car now. I had a set of new Yellowjackets but when I saw these I snapped them up. OEM are the best - they have lasted 15 years in my car and there are no Splitfires with a record of service that long!

Splitfires or new OEM coils will be needed at some point on a neo engine however you don't need to replace them unless they are breaking down. Unfortunately if they break down under load on the dyno then that is the end of the tuning session. Your call on this one.

Fuel pump...yes.

A manual boost controller will do the job like TurboTech if you are going for electronic then Profec B is pretty reliable and not too expensive.

What plugs did you use?

Are those actually OEM coils in that advert or "OEM quality"??

Splitfires or new OEM coils will be needed at some point on a neo engine however you don't need to replace them unless they are breaking down. Unfortunately if they break down under load on the dyno then that is the end of the tuning session. Your call on this one.

Fuel pump...yes.

A manual boost controller will do the job like TurboTech if you are going for electronic then Profec B is pretty reliable and not too expensive.

What plugs did you use?

Are those actually OEM coils in that advert or "OEM quality"??

Yep new in box right part number fit and work perfectly. They are so cheap I am tempted to buy another set but in 15 years time I might have forgotten where I put them!

Cool, with all the gear coming out of china it is hard to tell what is the real McCoy and what is a copy in the same casing.

Chinese copies can be bought under $100 for a set of six, plus freight

Cheaper in bulk

Plenty of mark from people like justja....etc

Splitfires or new OEM coils will be needed at some point on a neo engine however you don't need to replace them unless they are breaking down. Unfortunately if they break down under load on the dyno then that is the end of the tuning session. Your call on this one.

Fuel pump...yes.

A manual boost controller will do the job like TurboTech if you are going for electronic then Profec B is pretty reliable and not too expensive.

What plugs did you use?

Are those actually OEM coils in that advert or "OEM quality"??

Thanks for your help...

Ill prob just get a set and be done with it......

Im using the NGK plugs at the moment....cant remember the model number i got it off the forum...

thanks Again for your input...

Yep new in box right part number fit and work perfectly. They are so cheap I am tempted to buy another set but in 15 years time I might have forgotten where I put them!

Is there any advantage going Splitfires over the OEM's........i know the splitfire website will say they are heaps better,,,,,,

No unless you like blue. They are heaps better than 15 year old OEM but as I say the OEM ones have the track record. Not saying there is anything wrong with Splitfires.The main reason people bought Splitfires was that they were half the price of OEM but the ones in the link are even cheaper than Splitfires (or Yellowjackets) and at least two forum members (including me) are happily using the linked ones in their cars

I'm in a similar position. I have a Greddy BOV that was removed for an inspection. Is there any benefit to reinstalling when I get a Nistune?

Has your car lost 50% (or any) of its power since you went back to stock ?

If it was plumbed back you could put it back as it is presumably quite new but if it was venting to atmosphere I would be inclined to stick with the stock one and sell the greddy to someone who wants a noisy bov.

The flat spot at 5000rpm is in the stock tune, it will still be there even with new coils. The stock map drops a few degrees of timing at the 4500-5000rpm mark then adds it back in around 6000rpm.

Just echoing what the others said, get a good fuel pump and change the fuel filter. Get a boost controller, manual or electronic. Unless you know for sure you coils are dying I would leave them.

Has your car lost 50% (or any) of its power since you went back to stock ?

If it was plumbed back you could put it back as it is presumably quite new but if it was venting to atmosphere I would be inclined to stick with the stock one and sell the greddy to someone who wants a noisy bov.

I don't believe there has been any power loss since going stock... If it isn't going to provide any gains the I think I'll steer clear. Don't want to attract any unwanted attention from the fuzz :)

The flat spot at 5000rpm is in the stock tune, it will still be there even with new coils. The stock map drops a few degrees of timing at the 4500-5000rpm mark then adds it back in around 6000rpm.

Just echoing what the others said, get a good fuel pump and change the fuel filter. Get a boost controller, manual or electronic. Unless you know for sure you coils are dying I would leave them.

Thanks for your input

Thats good to know,,,,,,, Is there a way that i can test the coils to make sure there fine because as i mentioned i don't want to get the car on the dyno and have one of them fail.......then buy new coils then pay for dyno time again......

It just seems like a pretty common thing to go on the RB's........whether its now or in 12months time....i could be wrong.........

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • H2 (for cars) will never happen. It's not reasonable for any number of reasons. It's also not reasonable for almost all of the industrial uses that the fanbois say that it will be used for, again for a large number of reasons. There are some cases where it will be good. But, even those will be massively hampered by the economics. The only way that H2 can be economic is if we somehow manage to get from where we are to the other side of the economic-valley-of-death in which no-one can operate. You need there to be sufficient renewable generated electricity to be available so that it is effectively free. Once you are there, you can do whatever the hell you want and hang the efficiency. But until you get there, the ever diminishing value of electricity makes it harder and harder to encourage businesses to build the new generation capacity, and they will simply stop investing in generation projects. (I kinda think there needs to be just government money spent on building the required capacity in a non-commercial way, similar to how the first fossil fueled grids were built, as national-government owned utilities. And probably some nuclear in there to start. But this all should have started 10-15 years ago to avoid the chasm of death that we face right now). Synth fuels will be much more likely, but will only occur is there is at least some renewable H2 production, because you need H2 to do it. And you need stacks of free (or at least extraordinarily cheap) energy because assembling molecules back into fuels is exactly the opposite process to burning the fuel, and the reason we burn fuels is because there is so much energy squeezed into each molecule. So you're somewhat subject to the same economic valley of death problem as above anyway. That is unless people are willing to pay the current equivalent of $5 or $6 per litre of petrol-ish liquid fuels. Can you imagine it? The squealing at $2 now is bad enough.
    • This is so cool. Get a dashcam that records audio and hopefully you'll catch it.  Maybe there's a brand or some kind of markings on the back ? Are the pics hand drawn? I love it so much.
    • Hahaha yep, point(s) taken. I just like seeing different things and an EV in an R32 is pretty different. I'm not on the EV band wagon, I'm waiting for synthetic fuels or hydrogen personally. 
    • I mean it's probably likely that people overestimate their skills in dialling in a setup and noticing the changes. I had SK shocks and springs, and added heavier springs and got them revalved by Sydney Shocks to suit based upon what I told them I wanted the car to handle like. I got back a completely different feeling set of shocks, which probably (?) feel great on track but holy hell are they rough on tram tracks and the like. The shock dyno actually looks pretty similar to Shockworks (from what I can surmise from a screenshot of a youtube video - and my dyno printout...) Truth be told I doubt I'd be any faster or slower with either setup, or camber/castor combination. I also had whiteline eccentric castor bushes up front of my R34. I removed them and put in poly non-adjustable ones to soothe my OCD (nobody ever set the castor the same side to side, and it'd be near impossible to do) and be happy the wheel is centered in the well now for clearance reasons. Yes I wanted it to move 1mm 'back' :p I've effectively set my castor back to stock, negating all the benefits of that which is supposedly massive. I've probably also altered toe and camber in a negative (detrimental) way. I can't tell any difference steering the car.
×
×
  • Create New...