Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just put in a oil cooler and filter kit.

But was thinking with everyday driving /hiway driving oil temps will be too cold??

What its normal running temp for oil in a rb25?

I was going to run a oil temp gauge and have a cover over oil cooler for everyday driving then take cover of ect on track or very hot days?

Any ideas or input?

Sorry if it's been covered I did search and google it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388673-oil-cooler-oil-temps/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Get a sandwich plate with a thermostat in it. That will only open up the oil cooler circuit when the oil gets to operating temperature.

I have just put in a oil cooler and filter kit.

But was thinking with everyday driving /hiway driving oil temps will be too cold??

What its normal running temp for oil in a rb25?

I was going to run a oil temp gauge and have a cover over oil cooler for everyday driving then take cover of ect on track or very hot days?

Any ideas or input?

Sorry if it's been covered I did search and google it

Do you do all your racing in the Antarctic?

Edit: damn you edited your post :P

mine sits around 60 deg. celcius... hotest ive seen it was 70 just the other day.. it was nearly 35deg with nearly 100% humidity in brisbane... running turbolight 4100 also..

Edited by JustinP

Since you already have a sandwich plate you should get an in-line thermostat. 60deg is too cold. Your water thermostat opens (or should) at eighty something degrees.

I have one of these:

http://www.holley.com/501ERL.asp

and it opens at 71deg C

Oil doesn't start to beak down until much higher temps than 100°C. No point in having a panic even if the oil is up towards 120°C, which is about the upper limit for sensible operation. Just don't flog it if it's running that hot, and if it keeps going higher than that, then you start to worry, shut it down and wait for it to cool off. 90-105°C is the sweet spot. Anything as low as 60°C is too cold to consider opening the throttle - It's not even warmed up until the oil is hotter than normal coolant temperature.

I doubt that the trip to the oil filter is cooling the oil much. And if you shift the sensor to the sandwich plate look carefully where the port is because if you connect it to the return from the oil filter it won't read any differently. Try a hood over the cooler until you can get a thermostat.

Its cooling too much.

My Greddy thermostat sammich plate opens at around 80 degrees I seem to remember. I have seen 110 degree temps on a squirt through the mountains, perhaps I need a larger cooler before I track it...

^^^^ added to my list of stuff to buy...

i still get normal oil pressure, no excess burning of oil...

so pretty much my set up is cooling the oil far too much... or is it that im not running thin enough oil?

Your oil level could go up because it never gets hot enough to boil off the fuel/water conatmination.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You don’t need to use full throttle all the time to break these blocks, 500kw at the wheels in more then enough to break them even with an occasional squirt. Hell I’ve seen them break under 400kw
    • A work around is to install the R35 card style AFM/MAF on the cold side of the intercooler piping and the BOV on the hot side piping. Works well, also you can combat the revs dropping by adding a bit more ignition timing on the idle ignition timing table to slow the rate of RPM drop.
    • Understood. If you dont have a ridiculous limit,  Tune, T's and P's are in check, and arent bashing it all the time and doing the due deligence for maintenance(inc oil analysis) then its pretty safe. 100% agree, let your right food control it to some extent.
    • So these external kits with the machined block for remote solenoid mount will only work on a NEO head and RB30 or RB26 bottom end   For an R33 head on a 26 bottom end the remote vct kit is to resolve RB26 manifold adaptor plates etc  IF you try to use the remote VCT on an RB30 or RB26 bottom end with an R33 head then  you can starve the cam journal??? I have one of these kits from bits I had years ago before plans changed  I don't understand how that tracks with this video   https://youtu.be/RuPiI22Mplk?feature=shared   This looks like I can run the v termite vct kit to feed the VCT on an R33 head on an RB26 bottom end?!?!?   Lol.... don't v have these problems on RB20s
    • Yeah i know that MAF is no no for this type of BoV. The engine has no BoV and "hose/pipes" ..it was all deleted (or probably it was not even on the engine when it was bought  ) It does that "sutututu" noise which i kinda do not want(atmospheric is better IMO...but standalone ECU)  What are the cons of running without blow off on stock RB25DET NEO. It running 5-7 PSI max (it has boost controller)   EDIT: and can Nistune be "tuned" to know there is no BoV to i dont know "know" and be better for a car? I read so many info about no BoV. One guy saying it is bad and hurting the turbo/engine/car and other that it does not...  
×
×
  • Create New...