Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I wouldn't use a thermostat....just another thing to fark up, plus when it open it dumps freezing oil into a hot engine....good if you want to quench your internals mind lol.

It doesnt just go BANG OPEN at 75 degrees. it eases open to regulate the returning oil to the set temp level. just like your water one...

So you would rather under temp oil most of the time? May aswell take your coolant thermostat out aswell, dont want that cool water hurting anything!

It only takes a min to wrap a cover over the oil cooler. The coolant thermostat is only used when you cold start BTW.

It only takes a min to wrap a cover over the oil cooler. The coolant thermostat is only used when you cold start BTW.

So before you leave the house you have to think about where you're going? Freeway driving you bust out with a blanket and duct tape... But then you find some nice twisty road so you untape the blanket so your cooler works. That's bloody rediculous man.

What if your cooler is in a hard to get to location? *faceplam*

LOL!

So before you leave the house you have to think about where you're going? Freeway driving you bust out with a blanket and duct tape... But then you find some nice twisty road so you untape the blanket so your cooler works. That's bloody rediculous man.

What if your cooler is in a hard to get to location? *faceplam*

Oil cooler thermostats have a shuttle valve that opens one port gradually whilst closing another . They are designed to fail safe and not starve the engine of oil . The oil is stored in the sump so you couldn't dump freezing oil into the engine regardless . Generally cars that have OE oil coolers and thermostats set them to around 100C but they begin to open closer to 90 . Manufacturers do these things for good reasons its not just a guess .

Can you imagine a situation where some overkiller decided to run a huge oil cooler with no thermostat and a heavy weight oil because they think thick is good .

The whole reason to have an OE style oil cooler system is so you can run oil that works properly in normal driving conditions but not have excessive heat kill it when the engines worked hard for any length of time .

These days manufacturers are specifying lighter oils to reduce drag in engines with close tolerances - emissions fuel consumption etc .

These engines don't really like higher viscosity oils if they don't get them hot enough to flow easily .

The answer in a high performance or turbo engine is to add a thermostatically controlled oil cooler to prevent the oil getting too hot and too thin to protect the engines bearings etc .

Or the cheap way is to have an oil to cooling water heat exchanger like RB turbo engines do and have a reasonably high capacity radiator .

One last thing , real good oils cost big bux and when you run them too cool they absorb more gunk that can only be removed by draining it out the sump plug hole . This is going to cost a fortune for no positive gain - anywhere .

High capacity radiators and oil coolers are good things but only if they keep the fluids in their correct temperature ranges ie neither to cool or too hot .

A .

As far as i was aware, thermostat sandwich plates and inline thermostats have a 10% flow to the oil cooler when they are shut anyway.

Mocal ones do thats for sure. Or the oil would never move in the core and just sit and go yuck if you didnt track the car or do any sustained heavy driving.

I'm just saying the thermostat is one more thing to fark up, if only for it being an extra (heavy) thing hanging off the block, and an extra sealing surface, and if you want a sandwich plate for sensors that is another one, then you would have to relocate the filter...more lines, more stuff to leak/burst.

So I have one SINGLE sandwich plate which gives me AN-10 off takes for the cooler and two ports for sensors.

It keeps it simple.

...and my cooler is located in the grill and is easily accessible. If I want to cover it, it would take minutes.

Ok so my car will not instantly be optimal for street driving on one hand and track on the other, but who's car really is? Unless it is some sort of transformer car and the street tyres tuck up and slicks come out, and the fluids change themselves, and a helmet goes on your head like Inspector gadget LOL?

I'm just saying the thermostat is one more thing to fark up, if only for it being an extra (heavy) thing hanging off the block, and an extra sealing surface, and if you want a sandwich plate for sensors that is another one, then you would have to relocate the filter...more lines, more stuff to leak/burst.

So I have one SINGLE sandwich plate which gives me AN-10 off takes for the cooler and two ports for sensors.

It keeps it simple.

...and my cooler is located in the grill and is easily accessible. If I want to cover it, it would take minutes.

Ok so my car will not instantly be optimal for street driving on one hand and track on the other, but who's car really is? Unless it is some sort of transformer car and the street tyres tuck up and slicks come out, and the fluids change themselves, and a helmet goes on your head like Inspector gadget LOL?

You live in the UK, you should be the first person on here to be running a thermostat for your oil cooler!

If the thermostat fails it just means that it will be stuck open or closed. Oil temps would indicate this and you would investigate.

How often does a thermostat fail? Even if it does, change it. Its not like you cant tell if its stuck open or wont open (providing you have a temp gauge). It's better than having oil that's too cool 95% of the time.

Well how often do water thermostats fail? They probly have a similar lifespan, but being the oil thermostat is a complete unit inside a housing they arent as cheap to replace as a conventional water thermostat.

I think the Mocal Sandwich plate thermostats are around $135 or so. And youd more than likely want to replace the washers for the fittings on the plate too.

I run a Mocal plate on my car, non thermostat, but i only have a small 13 row cooler infront of the Radiator. I dont have any issues, but then again i dont have a oil temp gauge :P so i guess my point is invalid. lol.

Im seriously considering one of those Earls ones linked earlier. They look the bizz. And the fact they have provisions for sensors is a win. The Mocal ones do not.

If the oil thermostat fais my thoughts would be seeing as its probly closed 75% of its life, it will fail closed, so no harm done. And you will figure it out next track session when the oil temps go higher than normal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
×
×
  • Create New...