Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK I've almost finished the installation of a new timing belt on my auto R32 gtst, everything until now has gone like clockwork, but I've run into a problem that I can't figure out. How am i going to torque up the main bolt the holds the harmonic balance/ pulley set to the crankshaft?

A friend has suggested I remove the starter motor and jam a screwdriver in the teeth of the flywheel, but that is going to prove a real headache as the inside bolt on the starter motor offers zero room for my socket wrench to move, it might even require removal of the intake manifold.

There has to be an alternate way, if anyone knows of a solution or has some advice I would really love to hear it, otherwise I might have to trailer it to my local garage help.

Cheers Mike.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388780-timing-belt-on-a-auto-r32/
Share on other sites

best way is with a rattle gun. but most people without a rattle gun just do it up as tight as they can with a breaker bar, giving it sudden, sharp jolts until your sure its not coming off. torque setting: F.T.

Was wanting to use a torque wrench, but I'll be dammed if I'm going to spend all Saturday ripping out the manifold, rattle gun it is then.

Thanks for the reply.

Hmm might be worth one last shot, I only have a standard 40 piece sidchrome socket set, if I can source a couple more 250mm extensions then I'll give it a try. Just went outside with the torch and there is a gap between the alternator and the block, with a bit of luck it won't foul on the oil filter or pressure sender.

Autobarn or Repco carry a ring gear stopper?

Thanks again, Mike.

Remove the starter and fit a ring gear stopper.

It's not a GTR so the starter is easy to get at.

Use a long socket extension and come from the front. Easy as.

Hit the nail on the head mate I swapped the starter in my 32 in a few hours mate think outside the box a lil and u will get it out :-)

I can fit the ring gear stopper on the GTR in a couple of minutes.

No need to actually remove the starter from the car, just disconnect the battery terminals, remove starter bolts and swing it clear, cables and all.

Remove the difficult bolt completely first before you slacken off the easy one.

450 long x 3/8" drive universal extension can be bought from any tool supply, then add shorter extensions until you clear the alternator and can swing the brace.

I made my ring gear stopper, not difficult but in my opinion it's essential considering the torque required on the Rb26 balancer bolt. ( 330-340 ft lbs)

I have heard that one of the clutch slave cylinder holes lines up with the ring gear. A modified long bolt with the end machined down can then be screwed into the hole and engaged in the ring gear.

Not for me but a GTSt has a LOT less torque (105-115 ft lbs) on the balancer bolt so it could suit your situation.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...