Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 177
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  On 04/02/2012 at 6:51 AM, slippylotion said:

Any chance you can give us a break down of the cost to buy and deliver the front bar?

sure mate

Item Name:M35 Stagea Front BarBid

Shipping Method:Sea / ContainerDelivery

Shipping Category:C

Item Cost: 14,800¥

Japanese Domestic Freight: 4,000¥

Import Monster Commission: 2,960¥

Total Japan Costs: 21,760¥

Exchange Rate: $1AUD buys: 80¥

Import Duty: 740¥

Container Freight Cost:$125.00

Australian Domestic Freight: $70.00

Sub Total: $476.25

GST: $47.63

Total: $523.88

Edited by adambruv

Just a quick question regarding your car's flares. Given your car started life as an ARX, are they ARX flares or Axis flares? I think the overall shape of both are the same, but the main difference is that Axis flares have a rubber gasket that goes between the fender and the plastic flare - you can just make it out in the image below. My guess is that because the Axis flares are painted, the gasket stops vibrations between the flare and body that would otherwise cause the paint to chip on the flare (ARX flares being usually unpainted). I assume you have ordered the black Axis fender from eBay. Hopefully the gasket on a black Axis is not black (It's hard to tell in the second image) as that will stand out on your lighter coloured car.

web.jpg?ver=13284022090001web.jpg?ver=13284022100001

For what it's worth, I reckon when it's finished it will look great. A gold Axis will be very unique - unless the one below is not yours in pre-accident days, in which case it won't be so unique biggrin.gif.

web.jpg?ver=13284032700001

oh wow, does the number-plate say synergy motorsport ? if it does thats the same car :D

i still need the chrome on the bonnet and also another grill, anyone able to help out ? :)

thanks

Edited by adambruv
  • 3 weeks later...
  On 20/02/2012 at 6:52 AM, bigkevracer said:

350Z parts?

oh.... when my car was new, it failed the Vic roadworth on the drivers side tie rod... Ben at Northshore sorted out the parts, but they were the 350Z part, plus a conversion kit for M35.. Extra packet in the package.

  On 20/02/2012 at 7:37 PM, joshm35 said:

Cool down pplz..... Valium and redbull for all

Josh, is that the same Valium that gets rid of the cigarette smoke smell from your car?whistling.gif

http://www.skylinesa...ost__p__6242922

Edited by HER_M35

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
    • And now the bloody flapper is jammed slightly open. Lazy as all f**k in 3rd-5th (very hard to convince it to make much boost before you run out of revs), but will make 12 psi in 1st, which shouldb't be possible with a 5 psi spring and controller set to <10 psi. Methinks I'm lucky it jammed where it did, rather than fully closed. It's actually a well weird situation. Careful examination of what's happening in the back of that housing when the gearbox comes out and all the other stuff (injectors, AFM retune) is supposed to be done, next week.
×
×
  • Create New...