Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 177
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Any chance you can give us a break down of the cost to buy and deliver the front bar?

sure mate

Item Name:M35 Stagea Front BarBid

Shipping Method:Sea / ContainerDelivery

Shipping Category:C

Item Cost: 14,800¥

Japanese Domestic Freight: 4,000¥

Import Monster Commission: 2,960¥

Total Japan Costs: 21,760¥

Exchange Rate: $1AUD buys: 80¥

Import Duty: 740¥

Container Freight Cost:$125.00

Australian Domestic Freight: $70.00

Sub Total: $476.25

GST: $47.63

Total: $523.88

Edited by adambruv

Just a quick question regarding your car's flares. Given your car started life as an ARX, are they ARX flares or Axis flares? I think the overall shape of both are the same, but the main difference is that Axis flares have a rubber gasket that goes between the fender and the plastic flare - you can just make it out in the image below. My guess is that because the Axis flares are painted, the gasket stops vibrations between the flare and body that would otherwise cause the paint to chip on the flare (ARX flares being usually unpainted). I assume you have ordered the black Axis fender from eBay. Hopefully the gasket on a black Axis is not black (It's hard to tell in the second image) as that will stand out on your lighter coloured car.

web.jpg?ver=13284022090001web.jpg?ver=13284022100001

For what it's worth, I reckon when it's finished it will look great. A gold Axis will be very unique - unless the one below is not yours in pre-accident days, in which case it won't be so unique biggrin.gif.

web.jpg?ver=13284032700001

oh wow, does the number-plate say synergy motorsport ? if it does thats the same car :D

i still need the chrome on the bonnet and also another grill, anyone able to help out ? :)

thanks

Edited by adambruv
  • 3 weeks later...

350Z parts?

oh.... when my car was new, it failed the Vic roadworth on the drivers side tie rod... Ben at Northshore sorted out the parts, but they were the 350Z part, plus a conversion kit for M35.. Extra packet in the package.

Cool down pplz..... Valium and redbull for all

Josh, is that the same Valium that gets rid of the cigarette smoke smell from your car?whistling.gif

http://www.skylinesa...ost__p__6242922

Edited by HER_M35

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I figured out what’s wrong. It’s something to do with the high beam wire short circuiting. When I measure the continuity with a multimeter on the headlight socket connector it gives me a continuous beeping noise when I put it on the ground socket and also on the high beam socket.  On the passenger side of the car (working side), it’s only beeping when the probe is on the ground socket. Which makes sense.  So that means it has something to do with the high beam power supply for the drivers side. How do I trace that? Is it the turn signal lever malfunctioning? The one that also controls the high beam and low beams. 
    • Hey lads just finished tidying up a gtr a bought. Originally from Sydney now living in New Zealand 
    • Hi Guys, Looking for this piece if anyone can help out.   https://tfaspeed.com/products/nissan-skyline-r33-gtr-rear-trunk-finsher-panel
    • How did you go with your problem? End up fixing it. Have a y34 aswell vq30det
    • But if I smoke test 5th cylinder it’s all ok, no leaks  when I try with 2nd it’s leaking exhaust and intake, it doesn’t come from oil dip stick.    so maybe when car was running poorly, rich or sth. Spark plugs were black and covered in charcoal or sth lookalike. could potential contamination make valves not seal properly? is there also a possibility that rb’s don’t have equal performing cooling passages  meaning back of the engine will be hotter than front. Can this cause improper wear if engine was running under load for short time? Or carbon build up could just burnt from 4-6 and is still on 1-3?   I out of my head like really. Timing is as manual crank-exhaust 47, exhaust-intake 38 at this point I thinking about give it a try and make another 500-1000km and check if anything change, if not I will most likely disassemble engine head /or whole engine and send it back to rebuild. It’s killing me     
×
×
  • Create New...